The Conscientious Marine Aquarist: Part 1, Chapter 2

[TimberTDI]

Basic Equipment

In this chapter, Fenner runs through the various equipment needed to run a successful tank.

Since I enjoy playing the Devil's Advocate; these are some of the points that I think are very debatable:

• Taller tanks vs. wider ones
• Covering the tank top completely
• Acrylic vs. glass tanks
• GFCI-good or bad
• How effective are the "new generation" 10K and 20K bulbs coming on to market as opposed to the 5500-6500k standard.:biggrinpa lol2: Well in 1998 they were "new":lol2

 

[LeslieS]

One thing that Fenner did not list in his basic tank equipment is ATO. I know some members here feel that it is a critical piece of equipment for maintaining stability in the tank.

On page 48 he states that "many aquarium species live thier entire wild lives near the safety of relatively flat bottoms are are not likely to change horizontal patterns to vertical ones." He uses this statement to argue against deep tanks. I guess deep is relative to jumper fish!

Having one of those deep tanks myself - he is definitely right about what a pain they are to clean, but I think the curved part is much more difficult to clean than the deepest parts. If I ever get a new tank, I will stick with a deep one, but no curvy parts! And yes, I do have simian arms :fight2:

Fenner is definitely pro acrylic. I think everyone on MR is pro glass. Is there anyone here who has an acrylic tank?

He is also very pro tank cover. I used to have a glass cover on my tank. Now I leave it off because I am too lazy to keep putting it back on and the lights cover enough of the tank to keep the cats out. I didn't notice any difference, but I am still a beginner so maybe I didn't know what to look for.

The lighting section was actually helpful to me. I am not really into the equipment, so I never paid much attention to how my lights worked. I still have some questions:

Does the ballast stabilize the current in the light bulb or the light fixture?
Is light color measured in Kelvins and is it called temperature?
How can bright lights cause high pH?

Avoiding Electrical Hazards is a good section. Here were some must dos:

Examine cords, plugs and outlets every time you work on the system
Create drip loops
Power strips should be mounted off the floor
Unplug your heater everytime you mess with the water level
Styrofoam and acrylic are flammable
Avoid extension cords
Follow manufacturer directions for installation
Use a GFI Why is this one controversial?

 

[LeslieS]

BTW Jhale will be starting the Chapter 3 thread next Sunday. :smile:

 

[ellebelle]

"Color temperature" is a little different conceptually from heat temperature, though it's sort of the same. Color temperature is a simply a measure of the light's color. Basically, color temperature relates to the amount of heat it would take to turn something black (like a block of carbon) into something white - physicists refer to it as a "black box radiator" and theoretically because black is the absence of color and white is all color, the black box would have to go through the entire color spectrum to reach white. Each color that the black box turns corresponds to a very specific shade in the visible light spectrum. So, a 10K (it is measured in Kelvins) light represents the amount of heat it would take to turn the black thing into whatever color the light is coming from a 10K bulb (so, a sort of yellow shade).

At least, that is what I remember from my college physics class.

My brain hurts.

 

[Harif87]

So, a 10K (it is measured in Kelvins) light represents the amount of heat it would take to turn the black thing into whatever color the light is coming from a 10K bulb (so, a sort of yellow shade).

Keep in mind that its 10,000 degrees Kelvin. Not just 10 degrees :p

Also to answer one of your questions about the relationship between bright light and pH; bright light stimulates a higher rate of photosynthesis to occur in plants and algae, thus increasing the tanks conentration of CO2. CO2 mixed with water creates H2CO3, AKA Carbonic Acid. An increase of carbonic acid yields a lowering of the waters pH.

Im more on the pro-glass side. Reason being that it scratches too easily. They do look beautiful, but theyre too high maintenece. He mentions that they retain heat more easily, i think for most people on MR heat-loss isnt an issue rather its the opposite, heat added by blistering hot MH lights over the tank...

One question i had on the chapter was in reference to his "time chart". Its set for lights going on at 1 PM and going off at 1 AM. Could we actually do that? I mean can their sunrise - sunset clock be independent of ours? After all, once the sun is up on our clock, the lights in the room are on and the sun is shining through the window... does that not make a difference?

 

[ellebelle]

I'm not necessarily sure that shorter tanks are better either. If you have enough circulation in your tank, you should get good enough oxygen diffusion. I think there are plenty of fish that would use vertical space. And, if you build a rock wall up the back of the tank, you're still providing plenty of hiding spots for the fish.

As far as question of acrylic tanks - I'd just be worried about scratching it.

For me, a tank cover is a must, as I have jumpers in my system. My top is entirely enclosed, though the top of the canopy is about 6" off the surface of the water.

Does anyone actually acclimate specimens to light conditions by starting them in dim places and moving them to light areas?

 

[Harif87]

I'm not necessarily sure that shorter tanks are better either. If you have enough circulation in your tank, you should get good enough oxygen diffusion. I think there are plenty of fish that would use vertical space. And, if you build a rock wall up the back of the tank, you're still providing plenty of hiding spots for the fish.

I agree and disaggree. I agree with the idea that oxygen diffusion shouldnt be a problem with proper circulation. Keep in mind most people have sumps under them, which translates into more surface area as well as oxygenation as the water falls from overflow to sump.

For me, a tank cover is a must, as I have jumpers in my system. My top is entirely enclosed, though the top of the canopy is about 6" off the surface of the water.

I dont have my tank covered being that i dont have any jumpers. I am afraid that things might fall into the tank which is not worth the risk of not having a top.

Does anyone actually acclimate specimens to light conditions by starting them in dim places and moving them to light areas?

Of course! I always acclimate everything, fish, inverts, corals etc. Acclimation is not a thing to take lightly IMO. Whether or not your specimen will prove lively or live at all can depend on the way it was acclimated. Proper acclimation is key! (my $0.02)

 

[ellebelle]

Of course it's important to acclimate for temperature and pH. But after that, I generally stick the coral wherever it is going to go in the tank, as opposed to starting it someplace dark and slowly moving it into the light. It seems to me that in order to have a more stable system, it would be better not to keep sticking your hands in the tank and moving things around.

 

[Harif87]

Thats why gloves are always a good choice. But if you have moderately strong lights and you just purchase a coral that was in a tank with not such great lighting, if you put the specimen high in the tank its likely that it will bleach.

 

[LeslieS]

One question i had on the chapter was in reference to his "time chart". Its set for lights going on at 1 PM and going off at 1 AM. Could we actually do that? I mean can their sunrise - sunset clock be independent of ours? After all, once the sun is up on our clock, the lights in the room are on and the sun is shining through the window... does that not make a difference?

My tank is in my living room which gets a ton of sunlight. I keep the light schedule as close to natural daylight hours as possible. It is actually fun to see everything that comes out after the tank goes dark so I don't mind that it is dark before I go to bed.

Of course it's important to acclimate for temperature and pH. But after that, I generally stick the coral wherever it is going to go in the tank, as opposed to starting it someplace dark and slowly moving it into the light. It seems to me that in order to have a more stable system, it would be better not to keep sticking your hands in the tank and moving things around.

This is what I do, but my tank is mostly full of mushrooms and things that prefer living on the sand.

 

[Harif87]

If we could really have our tanks schedule like that i would definately adjust my timers..

 

[drperetz]

Safty

Safety is crucial in this hobby....LEARNED FROM EXPERIENCE.

Learning on peoples mistakes is also very helpful. Helped me several times.

 

[Aqua Pro Builder]

Also to answer one of your questions about the relationship between bright light and pH; bright light stimulates a higher rate of photosynthesis to occur in plants and algae, thus increasing the tanks conentration of CO2. CO2 mixed with water creates H2CO3, AKA Carbonic Acid. An increase of carbonic acid yields a lowering of the waters pH.

Are you sure what you typed is what you mean? Something seems incorrect.

 

[Aqua Pro Builder]

I am afraid that things might fall into the tank which is not worth the risk of not having a top.

Of course! I always acclimate everything, fish, inverts, corals etc. Acclimation is not a thing to take lightly IMO. Whether or not your specimen will prove lively or live at all can depend on the way it was acclimated. Proper acclimation is key! (my $0.02)

Strongly agreed in both counts.

Most of my fish death are due to carpet surfing and mechanical failure of poorly designed equipment so I would say a top is a must. Some non-jump will also jump when theygot really shocked.

Keeping our hands out of the water is always good. With lighting shock issue, some corals react quite fast and vigorously to changing lighting. Some coral will split their zoa even simply by moving from one height of the tank to another height if the light is difference is significant enough.