Advice on restoring vintage chrome and slate tank

Spracklcat · 10-23-2006, 10:47 AM

Hello all,

I just picked up a "vintage" (old) 55g tnak with a slate bottom and chrome trim. It's a pretty cool tank actually that I planned to clean up and reseal for use. the trim is about 1 inch wide on the top and bottom, and tapered from about 1 in. to 2 inches wide on the sides. The problem is, the chrome (or stainless--we'll see when it's clean) is held on by a thick (1/4 inch) layer of black caulk-like substance. My original plan was to totally dismantle the thing, clean it, and reassemble with black silicone. If I use a typical thin layer of silicone under the trim, though, the trim won't fit anymore (remember, I'm dealing with the size of the glass plus 1/4" of caulk--so I'll be 1/2 in. short each side).

Any ideas? should I

A. Leave the tank together with the black caulking and seal over it
B. Take it apart , reseal the glass and put the trim on after by filling the gap with silicone or caulking?

Then I'll have to send out a new MH fixture to get chromed too...hmmm

...and then neon...

give the fish rollerskates...

Christine

scarf_ace1981 · 10-23-2006, 11:00 AM

i haven't seen one of those tanks since i worked @ an LFS many years ago. i really like them because they are so different from the tanks we see today. i would definately use it for freshwater but not so sure about saltwater. maybe some of the more experienced members on here can chime in. if they don't see a problem w/ using this tank i would then take it apart and reseal it. these tanks are so old you don't want to risk anything. best of luck

jon-

Spracklcat · 10-23-2006, 11:59 AM

Thanks--yep, it's a beauty. I'll get pics up eventually of the process. I could go FW with it, but I'd rather do SW if I can--

**jhale** · 10-23-2006, 12:21 PM

Christine, that sounds like a fun project.

If you replaced all the silicone then using the tank for saltwater
would be okay. otherwise I would be afraid of any meds that could have
been absorbed by the sealant like copper.

edit: I forgot about the slate bottom, will copper stick to the slate?

that might be the tougher thing to worry about.

prattreef · 10-23-2006, 12:24 PM

Those tanks are sweet. I'm not sure how the chrome will fair in a SW environment. I'd go FW too. RD

Spracklcat · 10-23-2006, 12:30 PM

Good question about the slate. I suppose I could sit water in the tank for a while (once it is sealed) and then test for copper or other metals. Though isn't there a way to seal slate, like they do for flooring?

**jhale** · 10-23-2006, 12:35 PM

I guess you could pour the two part epoxy over it. that might seal it, but then you would have a shiny slate bottom.

If there's no copper to worry about that would make for a neat bare bottom sps tank

Psycho graphic · 10-23-2006, 12:56 PM

The SW will do a number on the chrome, it will need constant upkeep to keep it from rusting and pitting.

**jhale** · 10-23-2006, 01:44 PM

what if you go over the chrome with a laquer, would that protect it enough?

Spracklcat · 10-23-2006, 01:47 PM

That's kind of what I'm thinking--seal the chrome (and possibly the slate) just to slow things down. I have an email in to my resident expert on all-things-bulding (dad) and I'll see what he recommends.

10-23-2006, 10:47 AM	#1
Spracklcat Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Posts: 101 Reefer Ratings: (1) Friends: (0)	Advice on restoring vintage chrome and slate tank Hello all, I just picked up a "vintage" (old) 55g tnak with a slate bottom and chrome trim. It's a pretty cool tank actually that I planned to clean up and reseal for use. the trim is about 1 inch wide on the top and bottom, and tapered from about 1 in. to 2 inches wide on the sides. The problem is, the chrome (or stainless--we'll see when it's clean) is held on by a thick (1/4 inch) layer of black caulk-like substance. My original plan was to totally dismantle the thing, clean it, and reassemble with black silicone. If I use a typical thin layer of silicone under the trim, though, the trim won't fit anymore (remember, I'm dealing with the size of the glass plus 1/4" of caulk--so I'll be 1/2 in. short each side). Any ideas? should I A. Leave the tank together with the black caulking and seal over it B. Take it apart , reseal the glass and put the trim on after by filling the gap with silicone or caulking? Then I'll have to send out a new MH fixture to get chromed too...hmmm ...and then neon... give the fish rollerskates... Christine

10-23-2006, 11:00 AM	#2
scarf_ace1981 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: NYC Manhattan Posts: 4,856 Reefer Ratings: (67) Friends: (0)	i haven't seen one of those tanks since i worked @ an LFS many years ago. i really like them because they are so different from the tanks we see today. i would definately use it for freshwater but not so sure about saltwater. maybe some of the more experienced members on here can chime in. if they don't see a problem w/ using this tank i would then take it apart and reseal it. these tanks are so old you don't want to risk anything. best of luck jon- __________________ Finch breeder

10-23-2006, 12:21 PM	#4
jhale paper bags are fun! Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: G.V NYC Posts: 15,160 Reefer Ratings: (43) Friends: (32)	Christine, that sounds like a fun project. If you replaced all the silicone then using the tank for saltwater would be okay. otherwise I would be afraid of any meds that could have been absorbed by the sealant like copper. edit: I forgot about the slate bottom, will copper stick to the slate? that might be the tougher thing to worry about. __________________ FS: Aquamedic dosing pump, MH250 ballast, wavemaker Last edited by jhale; 10-23-2006 at 12:24 PM.

10-23-2006, 12:35 PM	#7
jhale paper bags are fun! Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: G.V NYC Posts: 15,160 Reefer Ratings: (43) Friends: (32)	I guess you could pour the two part epoxy over it. that might seal it, but then you would have a shiny slate bottom. If there's no copper to worry about that would make for a neat bare bottom sps tank __________________ FS: Aquamedic dosing pump, MH250 ballast, wavemaker

10-23-2006, 12:56 PM	#8
Psycho graphic Trouble Maker! Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Forks Township Pa. Posts: 766 Reefer Ratings: (8) Friends: (0)	The SW will do a number on the chrome, it will need constant upkeep to keep it from rusting and pitting. __________________ Who Pee'd in the Gene Pool?

10-23-2006, 11:59 AM	#3
Spracklcat Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Posts: 101 Reefer Ratings: (1) Friends: (0)	Thanks--yep, it's a beauty. I'll get pics up eventually of the process. I could go FW with it, but I'd rather do SW if I can--

10-23-2006, 12:24 PM	#5
prattreef Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Brooklyn, NY Posts: 2,919 Reefer Ratings: (17) Friends: (14)	Those tanks are sweet. I'm not sure how the chrome will fair in a SW environment. I'd go FW too. RD

10-23-2006, 12:30 PM	#6
Spracklcat Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Posts: 101 Reefer Ratings: (1) Friends: (0)	Good question about the slate. I suppose I could sit water in the tank for a while (once it is sealed) and then test for copper or other metals. Though isn't there a way to seal slate, like they do for flooring?

10-23-2006, 01:44 PM	#9
jhale paper bags are fun! Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: G.V NYC Posts: 15,160 Reefer Ratings: (43) Friends: (32)	what if you go over the chrome with a laquer, would that protect it enough? __________________ FS: Aquamedic dosing pump, MH250 ballast, wavemaker

10-23-2006, 01:47 PM	#10
Spracklcat Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Posts: 101 Reefer Ratings: (1) Friends: (0)	That's kind of what I'm thinking--seal the chrome (and possibly the slate) just to slow things down. I have an email in to my resident expert on all-things-bulding (dad) and I'll see what he recommends.

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