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Even with having a plumber in the family, I'm finding it hard to find a 2" ABS cleanout to make the lid for this thing. As soon as I find one progress will continue.

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I finally got the parts to continue on with the mods. It is very hard to find ABS parts anymore, my nephew who works in the plumbing field told me is because it's inferior to PVC, but seeing as the housing of the SCWD is ABS that is what I wanted to use.

Being the Dumbass I am, I forgot to take pics of the fitting before I hacked it up. I put the pieces back together to show you what it looked like when I got it.

This is a 2" Street Cleanout.

The bottom removed.

After cutting the bottom off, there will be a lip that needs to be removed along with some of the threaded area to fit over the SCWD's body. if you look close you can see the area I bored out with a Drum Sander for a Dremel Tool.

I have read about the "Drums" catching on "Mold Flashing " on some models causing them to break, so I sanded any high spots on the inside of the SCWD. You can also see in this pic I removed the excess material used to glue the 2 halves of the body together above the outlets so the Cleanout can fit over it.

This pic shows the SCWD dry fit with a cap in place. If you are happy with the performance of the unit without any other mods, you will just need to glue the "Cleanout" to the body of the SCWD and wrap some Teflon Tape to the cap and you now have a SCWD that can be disassembled for cleaning and maintenance.

The next step for me is to drill out the outlets and add the 2nd inlet on the cap. I'm not sure if I want to drill the stock inlet as I think it might allow water to bypass the "Impellor" that makes it work.

I also plan to add some "Bracing" to the drum, as I can see it being the weak link to the unit.

Stay tuned,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Same SCWD time, Same SCWD channel.

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I could'nt find a 2"x1/2" adapter for the lid, all I could find is a 2"x1" adapter which means I would then need to add a 1"x1/2" adapter to that as I will be running 1/2 PVC to plumb it (it makes no sense to go larger as the most I will be able to drill the outlets is about the same I.D. as the 1/2" PVC). Using all those adapters would be not only bulky but pretty ugly also, so I went with a 2" plug and a 1 1/2"x1/2" adapter. I chose the plug also because it has about 1/3 the threads as the adapter and seeing as it has tapered threads, I did'nt want to cut it down, in other words, this way would stick out about 1/2" less. I then drilled out the plug to snugly fit the 1 1/2"x1/2" into it, I also cut about 1/2 the height of off to keep things compact. I think I'm going to run the SCWD upside/down to keep the flow to it as unrestricted as possible. I have a 90 screwed into the top so you can see how it will work a little better (it was the only screw in fitting I could find in my collection of fittings).

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I dug up some fittings to show you how it will be plumbed. After I finalize it and test it I will know if I need to add any valves to it to control the flow.

[KathyC]

Wouldn't you need a valve anyway to isolate it so you could remove it to clean it once it gets clogged like they sometimes do?
And if I'm really beginning to understand this plumbing stuff, would you also need to add a union somewhere between the valve & the scwd?

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Quote: Originally Posted by KathyC Wouldn't you need a valve anyway to isolate it so you could remove it to clean it once it gets clogged like they sometimes do? And if I'm really beginning to understand this plumbing stuff, would you also need to add a union somewhere between the valve & the scwd?

I won't need a valve to isolate it, if I need to service it, I will just shut the pump off. I also won't be using a union on it as it will be to bulky, I plan to use Vinyl tubing for the connections to save space.

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As I said previously the weak link on these units seems to be the drum that blocks the outlets to direct the flow. I've heard from others that the drum breaks right where it attaches to the gear drive, seeing as this is the thinnest part I figured I would make a brace for it.

Here is the piece I made next to the drum. If it looks like the hole is too large, there is a boss around the hole and this fit snugly against it.

Here it is in place ready to be glued.

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One last mod before testing. I'm not sure if this will do anything at all, but after looking through the hole in the cap, I thought the pressure coming from the top of the SCWD would negate the pressure coming from the bottom cancelling the ability of it to turn the impellor. I made this "diverter" to hopefully redirect the flow from above to the side where the outlets are. I hope it works as I was covered in PVC dust from grinding down the fitting to save on rotating weight.