Cooling Tower Project

meschaefer · 04-23-2008, 12:04 PM

Do to the approach of summer, I like many have heat issues on the brain. On my old tank, I was able to keep the temperature pretty stable using fans blowing across my sump and in my hood and an Aquacontroler that
turned off lights and various pumps (i.e. to the skimmer) as the water temperature increased. Even on the hottest, humid day I was able to keep my tank temp within acceptable parameters (Acceptable to me at least).

My new tank has significantly more volume than the old, but due to using more efficient equipment has about the same amount of heat sources (measured by wattage) as my old 65 gallon. As such, I firmly believe that I can keep my tank cool using evaporative cooling. My new tank set up does pose some problems that make putting a fan across the sump and in the hood somewhat problematic.

First, I don't have a hood anymore, lights are suspended pendant style. Also, due to the large water volume (approaching 300 gallons), I really don't want to add any more humidity to my tank room than is necessary. It is humid enough in there without encouraging it (I have been able to somewhat solve this problem, but would like to keep the humidity down as much as possible). A chiller would be perfect, and may be the ultimate long term solution, but it is not in the cards at the moment.

I have been researching this out and have decided to make a cooling tower. The basic theory is that water is pumped to the top of a "tower" and allowed to free fall (Like a shower) through the tower. Air is pumped against the flow of water causing evaporation which removes heat. The resulting hot humid air would be vented outside. This is the same principal as blowing a fan across your sump or display tank, but it allows me to do so in a more efficient manner, and control venting.

The following link gives a simple explanation, they call it a "bong cooler" (go ahead and snicker)

A much more significant explanation of how cooling towers work, and their industrial uses (i.e. nuclear reactors), along with the science behind it can be found in short form here.

There are drawbacks and concerns with this type of system. But I think they can be overcome. It is not perfect, but I am looking for input, thoughts and ideas.

latino277 · 04-23-2008, 12:11 PM

Hmm... interesting.... I'm going to tag along on the thread.

meschaefer · 04-23-2008, 12:16 PM

Here is an RC thread, that discusses someone's experience with a cooling tower. They where in NJ, so the environmental concerns (i.e. atmospheric humidity) should at the least be similar.

meschaefer · 04-23-2008, 12:36 PM

They say a picture is worth a thousand words, how about a drawing. (please forgive my misspelling of "wye", I knew it didn't look right when I was drawing it out)

latino277 · 04-23-2008, 12:50 PM

ok... what's to stop the water from coming out of the wye on the bottom?

meschaefer · 04-23-2008, 01:05 PM

The drain. The water within the tower will not be under any pressure, It may take a bit of fiddling to determine if I need some extra space at the bottom for the water to pool as it drains out. But I don't anticipate that the water will back up to the point that it even comes close to draining out the bottom wye.

Sean · 04-23-2008, 01:09 PM

a few things to consider

I would put the fan on the top and suck the air out.
You may want to add another fan or two
how many gph are you expecting this to handle?
the water output will most likely need to be larger to handle the gph

meschaefer · 04-23-2008, 01:30 PM

Not sure how many GPH I will pump through it. It will be feed from a plumbing manifold so I can easily vary the GPH. I will probably start out at about 300gph or so. It is easy enough to make the output a larger diameter.

Do you think that 1" should handle it, or should I go larger?

Thought of putting the Fan at the top, but the research so far indicates that it is more efficient to have the Fan at the bottom of the tower. Will go back to find out exactly why. Also by putting it at the top, I will be drawing wet salty air over the fan, which will significantly cut the life expectancy of the fan down.

latino277 · 04-23-2008, 01:59 PM

OK... lets consider a few changes I would change the to at 1/2" Jaco bulkhead. on the inside of the cap I would put another piece of hose down past the wye. The Drip plate would then move to the PVC body as well (below the top wye). this will stop any water from coming out of the top wye.

I would leave the exit as a 3/4 barb/bulk head... this way it can drain more that is put in.. or up it to a 1" barb...

latino277 · 04-23-2008, 02:02 PM

yeah... you want the fan on the bottom... it's easier for the fan to push air than pull air... and it will last longer. I like the insump Idea... But I don't have space for that...

04-23-2008, 12:04 PM	#1
meschaefer One to Ignore Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Astoria Posts: 2,510 Reefer Ratings: (14) Friends: (3)	Cooling Tower Project Do to the approach of summer, I like many have heat issues on the brain. On my old tank, I was able to keep the temperature pretty stable using fans blowing across my sump and in my hood and an Aquacontroler that turned off lights and various pumps (i.e. to the skimmer) as the water temperature increased. Even on the hottest, humid day I was able to keep my tank temp within acceptable parameters (Acceptable to me at least). My new tank has significantly more volume than the old, but due to using more efficient equipment has about the same amount of heat sources (measured by wattage) as my old 65 gallon. As such, I firmly believe that I can keep my tank cool using evaporative cooling. My new tank set up does pose some problems that make putting a fan across the sump and in the hood somewhat problematic. First, I don't have a hood anymore, lights are suspended pendant style. Also, due to the large water volume (approaching 300 gallons), I really don't want to add any more humidity to my tank room than is necessary. It is humid enough in there without encouraging it (I have been able to somewhat solve this problem, but would like to keep the humidity down as much as possible). A chiller would be perfect, and may be the ultimate long term solution, but it is not in the cards at the moment. I have been researching this out and have decided to make a cooling tower. The basic theory is that water is pumped to the top of a "tower" and allowed to free fall (Like a shower) through the tower. Air is pumped against the flow of water causing evaporation which removes heat. The resulting hot humid air would be vented outside. This is the same principal as blowing a fan across your sump or display tank, but it allows me to do so in a more efficient manner, and control venting. The following link gives a simple explanation, they call it a "bong cooler" (go ahead and snicker) A much more significant explanation of how cooling towers work, and their industrial uses (i.e. nuclear reactors), along with the science behind it can be found in short form here. There are drawbacks and concerns with this type of system. But I think they can be overcome. It is not perfect, but I am looking for input, thoughts and ideas. __________________ Matt When you pay too much, you lose a little money, that's all When you pay too little, you sometimes lose everything, because the thing you bought was incapable of doing the thing it was bought to do. John Ruskin (1819-1900)

04-23-2008, 12:11 PM	#2
latino277 Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Da Bronx Posts: 682 Reefer Ratings: (8) Friends: (9)	Hmm... interesting.... I'm going to tag along on the thread. __________________ John My new 100g build Aquariums for you 100g square, ATI BM160, Mag 9.5 return pump, closed loop Via OM 4 way powered by DART, Ushio 400w +20k powered by PFO 400w ballast.

04-23-2008, 12:16 PM	#3
meschaefer One to Ignore Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Astoria Posts: 2,510 Reefer Ratings: (14) Friends: (3)	Here is an RC thread, that discusses someone's experience with a cooling tower. They where in NJ, so the environmental concerns (i.e. atmospheric humidity) should at the least be similar. __________________ Matt When you pay too much, you lose a little money, that's all When you pay too little, you sometimes lose everything, because the thing you bought was incapable of doing the thing it was bought to do. John Ruskin (1819-1900) Last edited by meschaefer; 04-23-2008 at 12:16 PM. Reason: Forgot to add link

04-23-2008, 12:36 PM	#4
meschaefer One to Ignore Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Astoria Posts: 2,510 Reefer Ratings: (14) Friends: (3)	They say a picture is worth a thousand words, how about a drawing. (please forgive my misspelling of "wye", I knew it didn't look right when I was drawing it out) __________________ Matt When you pay too much, you lose a little money, that's all When you pay too little, you sometimes lose everything, because the thing you bought was incapable of doing the thing it was bought to do. John Ruskin (1819-1900)

04-23-2008, 12:50 PM	#5
latino277 Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Da Bronx Posts: 682 Reefer Ratings: (8) Friends: (9)	ok... what's to stop the water from coming out of the wye on the bottom? __________________ John My new 100g build Aquariums for you 100g square, ATI BM160, Mag 9.5 return pump, closed loop Via OM 4 way powered by DART, Ushio 400w +20k powered by PFO 400w ballast.

04-23-2008, 01:05 PM	#6
meschaefer One to Ignore Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Astoria Posts: 2,510 Reefer Ratings: (14) Friends: (3)	The drain. The water within the tower will not be under any pressure, It may take a bit of fiddling to determine if I need some extra space at the bottom for the water to pool as it drains out. But I don't anticipate that the water will back up to the point that it even comes close to draining out the bottom wye. __________________ Matt When you pay too much, you lose a little money, that's all When you pay too little, you sometimes lose everything, because the thing you bought was incapable of doing the thing it was bought to do. John Ruskin (1819-1900)

04-23-2008, 01:09 PM	#7
Sean Owner of Aquatic Creation Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Chelsea N.Y. Posts: 1,796 Reefer Ratings: (10) Friends: (2)	a few things to consider I would put the fan on the top and suck the air out. You may want to add another fan or two how many gph are you expecting this to handle? the water output will most likely need to be larger to handle the gph __________________ Aquatic Creations maintenance and custom set ups http://www.manhattanreefs.com/forum/...dry-goods.html

04-23-2008, 01:30 PM	#8
meschaefer One to Ignore Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Astoria Posts: 2,510 Reefer Ratings: (14) Friends: (3)	Not sure how many GPH I will pump through it. It will be feed from a plumbing manifold so I can easily vary the GPH. I will probably start out at about 300gph or so. It is easy enough to make the output a larger diameter. Do you think that 1" should handle it, or should I go larger? Thought of putting the Fan at the top, but the research so far indicates that it is more efficient to have the Fan at the bottom of the tower. Will go back to find out exactly why. Also by putting it at the top, I will be drawing wet salty air over the fan, which will significantly cut the life expectancy of the fan down. __________________ Matt When you pay too much, you lose a little money, that's all When you pay too little, you sometimes lose everything, because the thing you bought was incapable of doing the thing it was bought to do. John Ruskin (1819-1900)

04-23-2008, 01:59 PM	#9
latino277 Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Da Bronx Posts: 682 Reefer Ratings: (8) Friends: (9)	OK... lets consider a few changes I would change the to at 1/2" Jaco bulkhead. on the inside of the cap I would put another piece of hose down past the wye. The Drip plate would then move to the PVC body as well (below the top wye). this will stop any water from coming out of the top wye. I would leave the exit as a 3/4 barb/bulk head... this way it can drain more that is put in.. or up it to a 1" barb... __________________ John My new 100g build Aquariums for you 100g square, ATI BM160, Mag 9.5 return pump, closed loop Via OM 4 way powered by DART, Ushio 400w +20k powered by PFO 400w ballast.

04-23-2008, 02:02 PM	#10
latino277 Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Da Bronx Posts: 682 Reefer Ratings: (8) Friends: (9)	yeah... you want the fan on the bottom... it's easier for the fan to push air than pull air... and it will last longer. I like the insump Idea... But I don't have space for that... __________________ John My new 100g build Aquariums for you 100g square, ATI BM160, Mag 9.5 return pump, closed loop Via OM 4 way powered by DART, Ushio 400w +20k powered by PFO 400w ballast.

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