Master Shake

captain of tying knots
Location
Lawrence
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this may be sort of a long and complicated post but please bare with me.
Before Hurricane sandy i had a beautiful 90 gallon mixed reef tank with great success with acros. it was a 90 aga with a 20 gal sump, asm g1 skimmer, mag drive 3, 4 bulb tek with a vortech and a 15w aqua ultra violet sterilizer. Being in college i could not afford luxurious dosers or ro filters so i added manually and used tap(i know not the best thing you can do) but it worked with great success so i was happy. In the disaster that followed hurricane sandy i recovered and saw a chance to upgrade in pretty much every aspect, so i found the perfect tank for me which was a 120 gal oceanic tech tank. started out simple on it, 30 gal sump, 1 vortech, reef octopus diablo xs 160 skimmer, 6 bulb tek instead of the 4 bulb tek fixture and manually dosed like before because i had good results with it. after several months of the tank being up and good, having fish and some starter corals i decided to try acros again. they would not die but only encrust like crazy and loose their color. after this happening to 1 or 2 pieces i tested a little further and found a phosphate issue which i soon corrected and have never had an issue since about a year and a half ago. solving that problem i thought the acros would take off but have not. over time i have upgraded to having 2 vortechs, i got a vertex omega 150 skimmer and got rid of the pos diablo, put in new bulbs to my t5, got rid of the kz fiji pink because i heard it had red in it which stunted growth. upgraded my magdrive 7 to a sicce syncra 4, got a biopellet reactor, got a doser dosing alk, cal(both from brs powder which i mix myself), mag and acro power daily keeping everything extremely stable. i add strontium and iodide weekly manually. my paramaters are as follows:
temp:78-79
alk8.5-9
cal 430 every time
nitrate: i have the red sea kit and its lower than their lowest color but not 0
phosphates: .05
salinity: 1.0024
mag 1400
I have 10 fish in the tank so it definitely gets fed enough, change my filter socks weekly, and have 2 bags of carbon which cumulatively add up to what i need for my tank and i alternate changing them so i dont do too much at once, i feed reef pearls and oyster feast at least 2x a week. all water on the tank is ro water and my cartridges dont even touch 6 months of use. before in the 90 i used tap water and had better success than im having now. Its not only one acro, i keep getting new ones hoping that the things would have resolved themselves after every little upgrade but they have not. out of over 20 pieces i will say i have vertical growth out of 2-3 of them and they are not growing as fast as they should. they are all pieces out of peoples tanks or aquacultured pieces and they are placed sporadically around the tank so its not just that one spot you cant keep anything. i have messed with my photo period lengthening and shortening my light period but no use. no matter what i seem to do nothing works. i have talked to experts and people far smarter than me but no one can seem to come up with anything, im actually about several monts away from actually trying tap water or just going lps and softies because its bs and im just fed up. I have great growth and color on lps zoas its just acros for some reason refuse to grow
 

Master Shake

captain of tying knots
Location
Lawrence
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forgot to add i grow montis like wildfire so its not an sps specific issue, my next goal was to have my water sent in to be tested was thinking aquariumwatertesting.com
 

duke62

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Do test what you add into the tank. The iodine and strodium I'm referring to. If not just stop dosing or try a all in one like fuel which I just started. Stick to the basics. What type of bulbs are you using also? People with t5s seem to have best results with blue plus bulbs but I'm not 100 percent because I'm a led user. How are you sing the bio pellet reactor? Is it going into the skimmer and are you adding some bacteria to the intake. I also just started using one and that's the consensus of using the pellet reactor correctly. I would add as much flow as your tank can handle. Also for some reason everyone I see who uses a doser have slower growth the calcium reactor user that I have seen especially in a larger tank. Jmo though. I also got rid of my socks as well as I had a bad expierence with them
 

Master Shake

captain of tying knots
Location
Lawrence
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ive always had a 1.0024 salinity in my tanks, i can try higher but dont think that .0001 will do much, i do not add bacteria to the pellets that is usually just for starting them up, i use esv potassium iodide and esv strontium chloride. I have a strontium test kit and test for it but the thing i dont get there is no set guide on how much to add to bring it up to where its supposed to be. ive tried not using certain things and switching brands when i run out of of them to narrow them down. next up to try and switch was the salt, currently using red sea coral pro salt and was thinking of switching to reef crystals just for the hell of it.
 

Master Shake

captain of tying knots
Location
Lawrence
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t5 are all either geismann, ati or kz not sure which combo exactly since ive changed som many ive even tried more white more blue etc my closet looks like a t5 graveyard, now im at 4 blue, 1 white and one purple, blues are on for 11 hours and all bulbs are are on for about 6, bret and austin (who i have scratching his head) from cherry corals suggested on increasing my photo period when i had it around 8 hours (about 6 months ago)total but when i try to bring the whites up i have to clean my glass anywhere from 2-3 times a week
 

duke62

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If your using Red Sea coral pro I don't see why your dosing those trace elements. I've never dosed them and I had real nice growth in my old 92 and now my 180. You can try the K but I always thought it was for color but could be wrong. I test it every week and I dose when necessary. I would ask someone who uses a 6 bulb with good success what combination they are using.
 

Master Shake

captain of tying knots
Location
Lawrence
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and with the flow, i have the 2 vortechs cranked up all the way on reef crest mode and the syncra 4 is pumping 950 gph, old tank had a mag 3 and 1 vortech
 
Last edited:

lnevo

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Location
Bellmore, NY
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1.0024 you mentioned it twice and talked about .0001 but your salinity should be 1.024 which is a .0216 difference right there plus seawater is 1.026 which is actually significant difference from 1.024 and if you didnt typo your talking a major difference. Let's assume you did typo it the difference between 1.024 and 1.026 is a difference of 3ppt so where you should be at 35 your at 32 which is definitely not ideal and a significant difference. I am by FAR no means an acro expert, but it seems like yoi've got every other base covered.
 

vio

Advanced Reefer
Location
Manhattan
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By the time expert show up, let me ask you , when was the last time u calibrate the ...............http://www.manhattanreefs.com/forum...bration-fluid-refractometer-4.html..........?!
-not sure if use 15 W Aqua Ultra Violet Sterilizer , is good idea.
-add Strontium and iodide ? what the # b4 u add ?
- if SPS is still NOT doing good , i will stop add AcroPower, list for now.
-how much water change you do per week ?
-you sure all Bio-Pellets move around inside Reactor .
 

MIKE NY

Two Decade Club
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I'm by far no expert, but I have been keeping acros for twenty years....there aren't any miricles in a bottle with all the dosing this and dosing that because what works for one system may not for another...the key for any system is stablity...water quality keeping the numbers within an acceptable range so don't go chasing a specific number because it will flucuate anyway even with reactors etc.., lighting and flow..period!
Also anyone who has been keeping SPS for a few years will tell you tanks go through cycles all the time...everything looks great for a few months and then looks like crap for the next...I have gone crazy trying to figure out why when all the numbers etc.. are the same..it just happens. I have even had mini crashs where whole colonies here or there just RTN or STN for whatever reason even though they have been doing great for years...it's gratifying and drives you crazy at the same time ..welcome to the SPS addiction!
 

MIKE NY

Two Decade Club
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regarding specific gravity I have kept acros in a range anywhere from 1.021 -1.027 successfully, but I try to keep it 1.024-1.026 because many just do better with growth and color in that range. The SG directly effects the mineral concentration ...again stabilty,... don't have those numbers jumping up and down
 

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