Pazzoman

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Hey Everyone,

My 150 gallon tank has reached zero nitrites and zero ammonia. After cycling with ammonia chloride which based off of adding ammonia every day. Just unsure of how much of a water change I should do tomorrow I hear 50% to 90%, as with a fish less cycle its recommended to add a few fish to the tank to preserve the bacteria after the completion of cycling. Also to preserve the bacteria I plan on tomorrow after the water change getting a hardy fish or two that have been at the lfs eating and healthy for at least over 3 weeks and of coarse make sure they have a long drip accumulation. Im unsure on what kind of hardy fish should be added first was thinking a yellow tang or something along the nature that has some size to it (to help keep the bacteria alive while the next additions of fish are quarantined before arriving to the tank.

So basically:

-how much of a water change should be done after tank cycled or will it depend on how much nitrates are in it?
-what would be the best, hardy, good size fish to add to the tank as the first resident and of coarse been at the lfs hopefully more than 3 weeks
 

Nandez13

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I've never done a water change immediately after cycling a tank. I would do a 10-15% water change once a week and increase volume if you have any algae problems which are fairly common in new tanks. Long drip acclimations are an old school method and can stress out a fish further due to fluctuations in temperature and pH. I do a 20-25 min temp float then a 45 min drip acclimation removing a portion of water every 10-15 mins or so.
 

Pazzoman

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Interesting on the water change defiantly would save a lot of time if all I need to do is a %15 a week. Personally i would like to drop down eventually to large water changes biweekly or if its even possible monthly, but I doubt monthly.

Defiantly will use your method of accumulation
 

Pazzoman

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Yes I am, honestly Im painfully trying to wait for the dollar per gallon sale at petco. Apparently this is around the time it usually starts. Throughout the cycle of this tank I had a big sponge filter in the sump, hopefully that and water can help establish a QT quickly. Also the QT will be a 40 gallon breeder will try to somehow designed dividers in the tank that can be removed but still not allow fish to view each other..

I do plan on the first addition fish (will hopefully be a hardy fish and has been at the lfs for at least 3 weeks) go straight into the main tank so thats how I could stop adding ammonia-chloride into the tank. However every fish after this will be quarantined and conditioned before being added to the tank.

So even if the nitrates are high I shouldn't do a water change today but just wait to do regular water changes? Thought it was generally best to do a water change directly after tank cycling...just wondering.
 

cmantis

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Nitrates shouldn't harm fish just corals unless they are stupid high but I have had mine through the roof. The thing about fish that have been in the store even for multiple weeks is you never know what got added to the system since then. Also in QT if you want dividers look on ebay for suction cup dividers and get some plexi glass and drill holes. However again you don't want to add fish at different points as it resets the clock. I am on a medication QT kick recently myself. I just use breeder boxes if necessary but rarely have problems with fish fighting as I plan what I put in. I just do them in batches then break down the tank. When time to set back up I take half the water from one of my other tanks and half new water throw in a heater and power head and call it a day. Im changing enough water with the meds that it really isn't an issue.
 
C

Cu455

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If you are going to qt all your fish you might as well do the first fish as well. I understand your thinking that there are no fish in the tank to contract whatever the first fish has. If that first fish does introduce a pathogen into the tank, it will be in there when you add the other fish. You can't really think of qt as protecting the other fish from the pathogens. You have to think of it as protecting your tank.

If you continue adding ammonia that will hold your cycle fine. As for the water change you probably don't need it but you could do it. During the cycle you get a lot of die off. Might as well try and siphon a bunch of it out.
 

Pazzoman

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Hey everyone thanks I will see what I can do, I will go and check out the prices of 40 gallon breeders. Pretty sure at petco it was $130 or something like that, I will will check out other stores and see whats the cheapest price pre-dollar per gallon sale. Also I do have a spare 10 gallon tank and a big biofilter sponge that has been in the sump while the tank cycled...so maybe I can use that as a QT for one fish.

Thanks will post up an update
 
C

Cu455

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I got a 40 breeder at petcos $1 a gallon sale and it cost me almost $60. You get charged taxed for the whole thing. If you choose check out petland or petsupply plus they have some cheap tanks. If you want to go real cheap you can use a storage bin. They make clear ones and hard plastic ones to.
 

Pazzoman

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Thanks for the tips, just pm the guy in Cmantis I went through pages on here surprisingly I didn't find that one.

As for the tank thats all green I have a feeling its going to be a pain to clean lol
 

Pazzoman

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I got a 40 breeder at petcos $1 a gallon sale and it cost me almost $60. You get charged taxed for the whole thing. If you choose check out petland or petsupply plus they have some cheap tanks. If you want to go real cheap you can use a storage bin. They make clear ones and hard plastic ones to.

Really? I don't remember it going up to $60, I did buy a 40 breeder almost a year ago but gave it to a cousin not thinking I would ever need it again
 

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