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ECFENCING

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Here goes everyone.

I gave up a sweet deal on Danny's 120. $350 for tank, stand, canopy, moonlights, sump, and return pump deal of the century for some guy's 120 on RC. Paid $600 for the RC 120, AGA tank, AGA Modern Series Stand, Custom canopy and two ice cap electronic ballasts.

Problem is I saw this tank a month ago and didn't notice that there was two 1" holes for return plumbing on the side panel of the stand since it was flush against a wall.

I think I can patch it up with 1/8" oak plywood and some molding and do the same for the other side panel so it matches. If I bring it in the house with a hole in the side panel I'll get a serious reprimand from the wife. Probably should have backed out but it felt kind of funny since I know this guy through a friend of mine.

Just wish I was made aware of the gaping hole via email correspondence before I committed to purchase this set up. Stand is made out of 3/4" oak plywood.

Live and learn. Caveat Emptor.
 
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ECFENCING

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Also now I find out that while electronic ballasts will fire double ended bulbs, the intensity with a magnetic ballast will be better. Guess I could try the electronic ballasts and see if I like the color.
 
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cali_reef

Fish and Coral Killer
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Are the holes round?? You can "plug" them up with plywood than re-stain to match. Not too difficult to do if you are handy and have some power tools.

Another choice is to layer a 1/4" sheet of plywood over the entire side and re-stain to match, may be less work if you don't have a lot of tools. HD can cut them to size for you. Glue and some small brads are all you need to keep the panels on.

Keep the Icecaps, they are nice and don't generate as much heat. JBNY uses them, he tested a large amount of 250W ballast and bulb combos so he must have good reasons to use them. PAR is not everything, water quality and movement counts more. I have the same ballast on my frag tank, the 10K XM do look nicer on them than the PFO HQI's.
 

ECFENCING

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Pierce

The holes are round. I think I'm going to get oak plywood and put new panels on.

BTW Thanks for your post on the lights here and on the thread for the ice cap fans.

Still debating on the PFO Pendants.
 
Location
Howell, NJ
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my father is a carpenter. i learned alot from him. what you can do is make those circles in to squares. then cut a piece of would exactly the same size squeeze it in then from the inside you can screw it with another piece of wood. (with small screws.)
then just use wood putty and stain. or just stain it the same color. these might seem like more work but it would look perfect and then theres nothing to worry about.
 

pecan2phat

Professional Commuter
Location
Wallingford, CT
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Hey Paul,
How are you coming along with the ick problem that you had? I refuse to post my findings with NSF on the RC thread cause the guy triggerfish is such a sarcastic #@*& dude. I stated KI RTN'd acros and guess what, his acros started to RTN.
 

kimoyo

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Sorry ECFENCING for the thread hijack, this will be quick.

Hey pecan2phat,
I'm not sure yet. I decided to use cupramine on my fish in a 30g quarantine. I fresh water dipped (ph and temp adjusted) them for 5 mins (hopefully to pop off some ich) and then let them soak in saltwater with furan for 5 mins also (hopefully to help them heal open wounds). Before I transferred them over I started feeding them selcon, garlic and metronidazole to get them some immediate help which I feel helped (those that weren't too bad off at that point.) I lost one fish (new addition) which probably brought the ich in before I did anything and lost another (2nd worst off) during the transfer. So far the fish are doing good in quarantine. Unfortunately the seachem test kit I got was bad so I couldn't bring the dosage of cupramine up to the right point for several days. After getting a salifert test kit I was able to get the correct amount of cupramine in the quarantine 3 days ago. Things seem to be going good but it will take a few weeks to make sure everything is good.
 

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