Hi Rich,
I know your exited, just 6 more days!
I'm running 10k SE XMs on Ice Caps in a PFO parallel reflector. I decided on these reflectors because they kept my brain from overheating when I was planning out the equipment. I couldn't figure out how to mount my VHOs other than reflectorless until I
saw these that had the flourescent bulb mounts on the edge of the reflectors. It saved a few brain cells.
I went with the SE XMs due to my increasing electric bill (July & August hit $565!) and also because I saw first hand at JBNY's tank tour how they looked. Based on his numbers, the Ice Caps with the SE XMs still hit about 630 PAR which was good enough for me.
All the corals were transferred from a 55g. The LR was all bought about a week prior to the tank being finished. I went with Pierce to a guy's house in Bklyn (RC name Stix, Nick) and purchased his Marshall Island LR. It had a lot of stringy hair algae from neglect but it sat in Pierce's 150g for a week and by the time I got it, it was premo rock.
I had the rock in the tank only for about 3 days & tested the levels. Everything was NIL so I moved over all my LPS, zoos & a yellow leather. Tested again in 2 days and moved all the SPS & clams in. So basically all new water, cured LR and everything was good to go.
What you see in the pic is only 115 to 120 lbs of Marshall Island LR and I'm done with the LR.
Your plan sounds good, especially knowing the source of the LR that you are using and you know it's fully cured. I don't think you will have any issues with cycling.
The only thing I did was lower the photoperiod to 4 hrs on the MH due to them coming from CV 10k bulbs. (garbage bulbs) I waited about 8 days and have just added 2 more hours on. No shock or bleaching yet.
If I had to do it over with the tank, I would have went with 2 separate overflows. Reason why is because I would still run the same amount of flow (about 1500 to 1700 gph off my Amp2100) so one center overflow would be ri
sky with one drain & Durso. The problem with my current setup is that when you use 2 drains/Dursos, you can't get them to siphon equally even with ball valves on the end of the bulkheads. As R. Durso said (which I should have listened), you'll never know which standpipe needs adjusting. With this being said, your probably asking me why it makes a difference if one of the two Dursos can handle all the flow. The reason is due to my utilization of micron socks/holder. Since I only had room for a 30g long for a sump, my socks are not that big to handle that type of flow. One sock on a continous drain will clog and overfill very quickly versus using two, thus the dual 1.5" drains/Dursos & acrylic sock holders. I would probably opt for smaller dual overflows in the back wall but away from the corners or it would defeat the starphire side panels.
The pump you picked sounds good but that bad boy is a thirsty sucker at 2.1 amps x 115v = 242 watts and pricey too.
If I went with magnetic pumps & HQI magnetic ballast, I cringe at what my LIPA bill would be!
But you'll even out with running streams instead of another pump for a closed loop so that's well thought out.
I've read that these pumps are better than Iwakis but then I've been running a small Iwaki on my 90g FOWLR for over 12 yrs with out any problems, never even took it offline to clean it.
Are you also getting their stand and canopy? If so, you'll need a panel van or at least 2 mid-sized SUVs. I went up with 2 Rodeos and I still had to tie the canopy on top of one SUV. Make sure they give you enough usable pieces of the 3/4" styrofoam for placement between the tank and stand.
Wish you were going to the frag swap, was looking forward to some of your nice corals! On a side note, do you know anyone that might have a true Oregon blue tort to frag?
Good luck on Sat with your tank and let me know if I can help in anyway.
Warren
