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THere are generally 2 situtations for pop-eye disease

VJ&POOPS said:
pop-eye and ik:dead1: :dead1:

Most commonly the symptom is associated with kidney infection-goes for both marine and freshwater fish. Treatment is something sulfa (well cannot remember exactly) for ten days or so. But too bad, you must take out the fish.

If it does not work I used (don't let the real vet knows) tetracyline from human pharmacy. You must take your fish out to another tank. Tetracycline will kill ALL bacteria in your tank, beneficial or not. The water will usually become crystal clear and the water will start to smell like some hospital rooms in the first couple days. But if you did not take care of the ammonia with enough water changes or something, whoever his roomates will also die because of the water chemistry. Make sure initial revival of the fish does not throw you off guard. Tetracycline is an antibotic and must be used in consecutive of 10 days for good sake.

Finally, if your fish shows uclerations, you may want to skip the something Sulfa, go straight to Teracyline. If tetracycline does nothing to the condition of the illness, E-mycin may be the cure. Also antibiotics, but work for different infections.

If ALL your dead fishes have pop-eyes, I think 100% they are bacterial/viral infections.
 
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ezee

Senior Member
Location
Brooklyn
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VJ&POOPS,

If your fish all sucuumbed at the same time to two different diseases then perhaps there were external stressors that triggered immune system problems. Ich and bacterial infections have very different origins and the fact that both hit your fishes at the same time should be a clue. You did say that you did a 50% water change and "stirred the sand up", depending on how you did everything maybe you stressed your fishes. I don't believe Tetracycline will assist with ick, baterial infections yes, ick no.

From your previous posts I think you had a lot of fish moving in and out of your tank as well (getting them from friends and selling them, etc.?), maybe they were carriers.

If the only invertebrate you have is the anenome you may want to move it to another system briefly and run hyposalinity on the tank, which is supposed to help with ick. However, your fish may be stressed enough and you might just want to relax, feed them properly and wait it out, especially if you don't think they are in very bad shape.

Finally, I should say that I am fairly new to this hobby and the are many more experienced folks than me that can probably add loads more. I am just sharing from my experience and research.

Good luck!

E
 

VJ&POOPS

Member-MR Best Reef Site
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Thanks all for your reply and my apologizes to those who were involved in some disagreements in effort to help me resolve my problem....

Someone asked about:

Lighting = sunlight (estimate about 80% due to the angles of the windows) - I think it's a good day/night cycle

Skimmer = external (fully in sunlight)

Live stock =

tiny anemone (got from deepwater) (tough guy, doesn't even seem bothered, even after it was viciously attacked by a butterfly fish I kept)..

Neon Velvet Damsel 1 large (got from FastUno) and 1 medium (had for about 6 months) - both died, large fish eye pop white color, refused to eat attempted to quarantine - died, small fish fin rot, ick, eating, then died.

Atlantic blue Tang - nicest fish in the tank (medium size), developed ick, pop-eye, red coloration as in damaged blood vessels, attempted to quarantined, died.

Purple pseudo and clarkii clown (got from nanoreefer22) - both were attempting to scratch themselves against rocks, had ick, clown swiming at top of tank. Was about to quarantine but ick disappeared, purple pseudo seem fine no ick, clown fish no ick, but still attempts to scratch himself on rocks, though not as much.

2 mollies 1 black (born and raised from 30g tank) 1 gold large - both male - no chemistry there...(I know some people will be wondering, if you are familar with mollies)...and they never seem affected..


What I did.[before the outbreak]

- Moving tank, drained all water, kept 50% off the top, drained the rest, (didnot want to loose all the bacteria). 75 Gallon Tank

-All chem check out ok, no nitrates/nitirite/amonia/ph kept at 8.2-8.4, salinity 1.023 (use mangrove plants - excellent filtration of nitrates)

-Water temp brought up to 80 deg, fish placed back in tank, everyone seemed happy

-suspected outbreak, was alreay looking for goby, wrasse and shrimp / deepwater also suggested on this thread

-full outbreak - damsels started dying showing infections (had blue damsel and yellow tails too), posted on Manhattan Reefs for advice....

-Read some of the feedbacks and suggestions you guys posted, all I did was raise the tank 2 deg, the change hasn't fully taken effect as yet but tonight I will check and should be at exactly 82 degrees (still 80 deg high, temp is yellow low and green/blue = high) it was last at 80 green from 80 yellow - LCD thermometer reads that way - weird but it works.....

-ick seems to be disappearing on the pseudo (almost completely) no sign on clarkii which still tries to scratch it self from time to time, both are swimming, hiding and eating....


:cool3: :) Comments/Feedback are welcome
 
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Rating - 99.1%
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Oops-did not noticed you also mentioned seeing ick.

VJ&POOPS said:
Neon Velvet Damsel 1 large (got from FastUno) and 1 medium (had for about 6 months) - both died, large fish eye pop white color, refused to eat attempted to quarantine - died, small fish fin rot, ick, eating, then died.

Atlantic blue Tang - nicest fish in the tank (medium size), developed ick, pop-eye, red coloration as in damaged blood vessels, attempted to quarantined, died.

Purple pseudo and clarkii clown (got from nanoreefer22) - both were attempting to scratch themselves against rocks, had ick, clown swiming at top of tank. Was about to quarantine but ick disappeared, purple pseudo seem fine no ick, clown fish no ick, but still attempts to scratch himself on rocks, though not as much.

-ick seems to be disappearing on the pseudo (almost completely) no sign on clarkii which still tries to scratch it self from time to time, both are swimming, hiding and eating....

Are all the above scenarios showing up during the full outbreak or some of them actually showed up before you did the "major" change?

If you have seen ick in your fishes that mean your whole tank is full of ick cyst. Is your tank still very crowded or just couple fish left? This make the treatment method very different to minimize lost of live stock. Remember to have a high performance filter for your hosiptal tank to suck all the ick cysts into the filter before they turn into free swimming phase. Of course the hospital tank should be a barebottom in this case.

Are you in the city? I would like to see your tank in person. I like to study and cure disease for crowded tank. I did that all my life.
 
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