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Old 12-30-2007, 12:32 AM   #11
Sheriff of The Drink
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LH,
List what tests are in both aquarium pharm. kits. what you need for the reef to start
Ammonia
Nitrite
Nitrate
Calcium
Alkalinity
Magnesium
pH

Check with our vendors. most of them (if not all) carry live rock. it will be better and cheaper than LFS's.

The powerheads and the chiller: Wait till you set up the tank and see if you need them. the tank has both powerheads and exhaust fans included. You might get away with the stock items, and save you from buying things you don't need now. You will need a powerhead to mix up saltwater, and a small heater for the bucket as well (and a bucket too!) these can be cheaper ones that are just used for this purpose. I actually use old ones I have lying around.

If you live in NYC, chances are you can get away with a 4 stage RODI. Check www.buckeyefieldsupply.com I bought mine from one of the mail order fish places, and paid about $100 more than I needed to. You can spend some time researching and price shopping and get what you need. Post what you think is a good deal here and someone will tell you if it's a ripoff or a great deal.

B
(ps I cleaned up the thread. It looked like you hit 'back' and then typed a few new replies below your old post.)
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Old 12-30-2007, 01:17 AM   #12
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Thanks

BC,
Thanks for the info:-)

I will be sure to follow up on your advice, but quick question.

If I purchase cured rock, won't I need stable temps (which means I need the chiller?)

Last edited by ladyhealth; 12-31-2007 at 08:01 PM.
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Old 12-30-2007, 01:47 AM   #13
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BC,
Thanks for the info:-)

I will be sure to follow up on your advice, but quick question.

If I purchase cured rock, won't I need stable temps (which means I need the chiller?)
You only need a chiller if your tank temp goes above 83 or 84degrees. It's winter time, and most people I know don't keep their room temps that high. So it will be your lights and heater that keep the temp up. Depending on how long you run the HQI, and how hot your apartment is, your temp should be nice and stable. I have 2 150w's above a 58, and it doesn't get hot enough to run my chiller in the winter. Summer is a different story.

Quote:
Also, I have a reply that I'm trying to post, but I know I am doing something terribly wrong.

The post that I am trying to add is below:
{snip}
your reply is the same as your post above. (your reply under post #7, (my first post.)) If you have another/different question, just list the question. All the rest of the info is above, and if we've read down this far, we've read it! If you keep posting the exact same post, we'll miss any new questions you ask.

b
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Old 12-30-2007, 10:19 AM   #14
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on a tank that size with a mh you more than likely will need a chiller, chief doesnt use one on his ap 24g with a 250w mh but i have to use one on my ap 24g with a 250w mh. i posted a link to a guy that sells factory refurbs from current. plus the currents have a plug in for a heater lso so it controls both, all i can tell you is do not rush. take your time it will cost less and turn out better. the flow part also depends on what type of corals you want to keep. i would buy 1 small piece of live rock and get a box of the 25 lb from marco rock. it will cure fast and give you time to figure out what you really want to do in the hobby.
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Old 12-30-2007, 05:40 PM   #15
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Rick is right I don't use a chiller but I do use a fan and I have my controller set up to turn off lights and heater when the tank gets too warm and it also turns on that aforementioned fan. My 24 AP is also open top. You have a lid on that Nanocube so it is better to use a chiller if you have heat issues.
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