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duke62

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I was given a small chiller and was going to use it on a smaller tank setup in the future but i have some concerns about it.i opened it up and the coils seem to be copper. its a current prime 1/10 chiller. i never used a chiller but im guessing there is no way this can be used in a reef am i correct?
 

tomtoothdoc

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I was given a small chiller and was going to use it on a smaller tank setup in the future but i have some concerns about it.i opened it up and the coils seem to be copper. its a current prime 1/10 chiller. i never used a chiller but im guessing there is no way this can be used in a reef am i correct?

are you sure it's copper? i have 4 chillers and they are all titanium. how old is the chiller?
1/10 hp model # 2635 has titanium heat exchanger

http://www.aquacave.com/110-HP-Prime-Mini-Chiller-w-Dual-Stage-Thermostat-by-Current-USA-P1294.aspx
 

tomtoothdoc

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i would assume it's not a copper coil but to be sure, you may want to run some fresh saltwater thru it and test for copper.
do you know if the chiller was ever used in a medicated tank? jarrettshark bought a used chiller that was from a fowlr tank and he never asked if it ever seen copper.....after mysterious coral deaths, he sent the water sample out to a lab and came back positive for copper. he tested the chiller and it had trace of copper from there. pm him about the details.
 

duke62

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chiller

what do you think
 

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tomtoothdoc

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i just looked inside my prime tower 1/3 hp.....the coils looks exactly the same as your pic...copper looking:eek:. i had been using this chiller for more than 3 yrs. now. no problem with any corals or invert at all. i have a 300 gal. sps dominated mixed reef.
like i said i would worry more about whether or not the former owner/s ever used copper with the chiller. to be absolutely sure, go get a copper testing kit...30 buck for a piece of mind.:wink1:
 

duke62

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thats what i thought thanks dre. now my next concern is why it was discontinued. i did some reading and i think it may have something to do with the thermostat not being accurate. going to look into seeing if i can add a newer thermostat in this unit. i was given this unit so if i have to put a couple bucks into it it may be worth it. as long as its in reason :)
 

tomtoothdoc

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thats what i thought thanks dre. now my next concern is why it was discontinued. i did some reading and i think it may have something to do with the thermostat not being accurate. going to look into seeing if i can add a newer thermostat in this unit. i was given this unit so if i have to put a couple bucks into it it may be worth it. as long as its in reason :)

you are correct about the built in thermostat....it is not accurate, i run mine off a controller. get a used rke or a ranco temperature controller....at about the same price, the rke is more useful.
 
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The copper/aluminum coils that you see are the condenser coils and it is refrigerant (freon) that flows thru those coils and the fan blows air over them to keep them cool and is an "refrigerant to air" heat exchanger. The heat from your tank is being expelled in this process. This section gets warm/hot just like a window a/c does on the outside.

The silver insulation (to the right over the condenser coils) is covering the evaporator coil where the water flows thru a reef safe titanium "water to refrigerant" heat exchanger. The heat from your tank is being removed in this process. This is the section that gets cold just like a window a/c does on the inside.

Just make sure that you clean the filter that should be attached to the cover, blow out the condenser coils with an air can for cleaning keyboards (do it outside and down wind so you don't inhale the dust), and get 2-3 gallons of distilled white vinegar, a 5 gallon bucket, some hoses and a pump.

The pump should be pumping into the "OUT" side and draining out of the "IN" side. Dump the 2-3 gallons of vinegar into the 5 gallon bucket and fill the rest with water. It is best to have a filter sock in the bucket so that all outgoing water/sediment has to pass thru the sock and the sock collects the debris.

Let it run for a week just circulating water/vinegar mix thru it. DO NOT plug in the chiller. You can even switch the direction of flow to make sure that it all gets freed up.

Reason for this is because the inside of the chiller can be caked up with sediment, especially calcium, and you can waste a ton of electric running the chiller because if those inner walls of the evaporator are caked with anything, it will stop the heat of the water from being able to exchange with the refrigerant in the evaportor which defeats the purpose of having a chiller.

...and just set it up on your counter with the bucket in your sink with running tap water going into the bucket and the pump, pumping the tap water into your chiller BUT draining into the sink for about 10-20 minutes to get the vinegar out after the week is up. Just test it on the 5 gallon bucket to make sure that it drops temp after you're done rinsing it and hook the pump up to the "IN" side for the test run.

You may even find these directions on Current's website but it will be vague as to the amount of time vinegar should be ran. If there is only a little bit of sediment then you don't have to do much, if there is a lot of sediment then you'll have to clean it for an extended, indefinite amount of time. If it hadn't been cleaned in the 5 years (for agrument sake) that it was used, it may take longer than a week to clean it expecially with a heavily dosed SPS & clam tank.
Best of luck!
 
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Are chillers known for having traces of copper??, I have been losing all my SPS since i hooked up my chiller

There is a HUGE "possible" downside to chillers. It rarely happens BUT if the evaporator springs the worst kind of leak that could happen in an aquarium, the water CAN mix with the refrigerant and completely poison the entire system.

A leak can range from "miniscule" where almost nothing gets affected and is taken cafe of in water to changes to "huge" where it will kill a entire system in moments. All of the chemical compounds that make refrigerant including oil will play there part in that.

SPS can be very temperature sensitive so maybe check your temp with a thermometer and make sure that the temp swing isn't too great.

If your chiller runs and it doesn't cool, there is a possibility of a leak. The leak is usually NOT in the evaporator. You can check it easily buy whether or not it is blowing out warm air. If it is not blowing out warm air, it either has a leak, has a bad compressor, has a bad fan, has a bad control, has a clogged evaporator and/or other possible issues.
 
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My chiller is brand new i dont think it could be leaking yet!!


....but NOT impossible. Every year things are made with cheaper and cheaper materials and workmanship (or lack there of) gets worse. Even the best products have even a small percentage of defective products. It happens everyday whether it be a brand new car or a brand new iphone. There is no reason that it should be ruled out. I agree that it is very unlikely but i've seen brand new equipment be completely messed up.

My issue with chiller manufactuers is that they offer little warranty on the evaporator coil. I don't care about the rest of the chiller but when it comes to a Titanium evaporator that is used to withstand the corrosive properties of salt, I think there should be a LIFETIME warranty specifically for the evaporator only. Even the best only offer at maximum 2 years and some only offer 90days and if something like a leaky heat exchanger does occor and it poisons the water, they will only cover the cost of the chiller. So where is the incentive for them of making a quality product? Some have tens of thousands of dollars in a system. No matter what the amount of livestock is in a system, we all have a rediculous amount of time vested in a system.
 
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Are chillers known for having traces of copper??, I have been losing all my SPS since i hooked up my chiller


Maybe the day you hooked it up, you brought the temp down too quickly and shocked some of them?

Maybe your pump is too small and the water that is being fed into the tank is SUPER cold and it's like a freezing cold breeze on a hot summer day and they can't take it.

Maybe you used the return pump and went straight thru the chiller which would produce the above enviroment and at the same time significantly cut back on flow and now maybe your system doesn't have as much flow as before to keep them clean and fed.

....just thinking of the possibilities that are causing your SPS to die.
 
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GeriDoc

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thats what i thought thanks dre. now my next concern is why it was discontinued. i did some reading and i think it may have something to do with the thermostat not being accurate. going to look into seeing if i can add a newer thermostat in this unit. i was given this unit so if i have to put a couple bucks into it it may be worth it. as long as its in reason :)
Current has gone out of the chiller-making business. Their entire line has been discontinued.
 

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