Johnson controls A419 to JBJ Arctica Chiller?

[PaulEZ]

Can anyone walk me through or point me in the right direction to wire this controller up? This has been an upgrade I've been looking to do for quite some time and just finally place my order.

Thanks!

 

[KathyC]

I can't say that I recall seeing anyone post about this particular controllee before. Most here are more familiar with the Ranco controller.

Perhaps you might contact the manufacturer so the info you get is accurate ?

 

[PaulEZ]

I can't say that I recall seeing anyone post about this particular controllee before. Most here are more familiar with the Ranco controller.

Perhaps you might contact the manufacturer so the info you get is accurate ?

Thanks Kathy. From what I've gathered, it isn't too difficult, but I would like to make sure I get it right the first time and don't fry anything, including myself lol! If anyone has experience with the JC A419 and can weigh in I would greatly appreciate it!

 

[Reef Fixations]

I'm looking at the wiring diagram right now...

what's your question?

 

[Reef Fixations]

Also, what voltage is your chiller?

 

[Reef Fixations]

usually all you need is a heavy duty extension cord like those grey utility ones that people usually use for a window air conditioner. I'd recommend 12 guage plus a ground so you'll have a 3-prong female and 3-prong male end. I'd get something 9-15' long and then cut it in half.

I imagine all you'll need is a 1/2 romex connector. If it's a metal connector then get a 1/2" fiber bushing to protect the wires from the threads of the connector.

Wirenut both ground wires together inside the box.

The male plug will be your main (line) source of power and your female will be your "load" side that your chiller will plug into.

I'd put a pigtail in the AC-COM terminal and that will attach to your other neutrals with a wirenut.

Your "line/male" wire will go to the 120v terminal and add a jumper from the 120v terminal that will jump to the "C" terminal on your relay (if your chiller is only 120v which most are, if it's 240v than the jumper and "line" wire on your male plug will go to 240v side)

Your "load/female" wire will go to the N/O side.

Set your settings for it to opperate for "cooling" so that the N/O (normally open) contact will "close" when the temperature rises above your setpoint. Your setpoint should be either 1 or 2 degrees. Most people would tell you to set it for a 1 degree differential but if you find that your chiller is short cycling you can either increase flow thru the chiller or raise it to 2 degrees and see if that helps it run properly as opposed to short cycling.

If you'd like, you can test it once your wiring is done with a lamp or a small room fan instead of your chiller to make sure you wired it right. The control will turn on the light/fan as the temper rises and all you have to do is hold the sensor in your hand to make it think the temp is rising and then put it in a cup of ice water to make it think the temp has dropped and then the fan/lamp will shut off.

It says it also has an "anti-short cycle timer" so you can set that to 5 minutes and leave it at a 1 degree differential as well and then your compressor will be protected.