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Nandez13

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Playing around with my sump plumbing right now and having some trouble getting things right. I have a 75g DT/30g sump and was running a Hydor Seltz 740 gph pump. The overflow has a 1" drain, 3/4" return which I believe is associated with an overflow rate around 600 gph. For a while I thought the return pump must've gotten clogged because there was very little flow returning to my display tank. All the pvc was glued so it wasn't as simple as removing the pump to check for clogs.

I cut the return line so I could replace the return pump with a new Sicce 950 gph pump. Turns out the Hydor pump was probably malfunctioning. I opened it up and there was some detritus build up but not to the extent that it would be affecting flow. The new Sicce pump is 200 gph higher than the Hydor but my overflow can't handle it. I thought it was a small upgrade from the previous pump but that thing is kicking like crazy.

I just got a new frag tank that I want to plumb into my system and was wondering how to calculate the GPH required to achieve this. There is a head loss calculator on RC but I'm not sure how I'm entering the vertical/horizontal lengths if the return is split.

The layout would be: 2 ft vertical rise from the return pump to a tee, the DT return would then go 3 ft horizontal, then 2.5 ft vertical. The frag tank return would go 2 ft horizontal from the tee then 1.5 ft vertical. 3/4" plumbing.

Any thoughts on the 950 gph pump being used for both? I'd rather not have to buy more equipment than I already have but the Hydor pump is just no good and the Sicce is just too strong....
 

Nandez13

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Forgot to include that I'd probably add a ball valve on the return line for the frag tank. If the Sicce pump is too small for both tanks, then I guess I'll resort to putting a ball valve on the return line and using it only for my display tank and a separate smaller pump for my frag tank.

Thanks for any input.
 

lrasser

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Rocky Point
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The frag tank doesn't need much flow. Mine barely flows. Just enough to turn over the water in the tank. Just build a manifold off the return pump and use gate valves instead of ball valves. They allow for a LOT more fine tuning. If
you would like I can send you a pic of what I built if that helps. Just pm me a number to send them to.
 

lrasser

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are you running reactors? you can tee those off as well and eliminate those additional pumps as well. it cleans things up a lot. I run everything off a manifold that cost me about $30 to build. That would take up more of that extra flow you have.
 

Nandez13

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Brooklyn
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The frag tank doesn't need much flow. Mine barely flows. Just enough to turn over the water in the tank. Just build a manifold off the return pump and use gate valves instead of ball valves. They allow for a LOT more fine tuning. If
you would like I can send you a pic of what I built if that helps. Just pm me a number to send them to.


I hear ya, my frag tank will have a powerhead in it anyway for extra flow. I was a bit concerned about there not being enough flow to keep the temperature stable in the frag tank. I ended up removing my old return pump to my display tank because I noticed the water would hover around 75-76 even with the heaters set to 80-81. If the temp is an issue in the frag tank, then I can always hide a heater under the egg crate rack.

Not running any reactors at the moment. I was running a gfo reactor but considering doing vodka dosing now. I'm hesitant about the new pump not being enough for the display/frag tank, not sure throwing a reactor into the mix would be a good idea unless I got a bigger return pump. I'll PM you my number for the pics. Thanks alot for the input.
 

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