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Old 08-30-2019, 06:44 PM
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BRS thinks that the Triton results are not accurate, but I’m not so sure.

ATI says they will test your RO water for free when you send in a sample of your saltwater. So, I think I’ll take them up on that. I’ll mix up some saltwater using the RO/DI water and also send the plain RO/DI sample in with it.

Damn, this is so frustrating!
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Old 09-14-2019, 11:09 PM
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Sorry to hear you still haven’t found a solution. Have you try triton detox?
I’m in Brooklyn. My TDS from the wall is 17. Zero after rodi. My triton icp test came back with high tin (17ug/l) and slight elevated alummium. I will have to send in another test next month to see if my tin level decrease or increase also.
Also where did you get a tin test kit?
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Old 09-15-2019, 07:57 PM
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I got a tap water multi-test on amazon. Home Depot also has them, but since I didn’t know what I was testing for initially I bought one online made by Safe Home that had test strips for 20 different things. Since it was a test for drinking water safe for human consumption, the lowest levels it detects might be far above what would kill a coral, as all the metal tests I did with it were negative. Since I knew it was something to do with the water, that’s when I sent the first test out to Triton.

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Originally Posted by Czynot View Post
Sorry to hear you still haven’t found a solution. Have you try triton detox?
I’m in Brooklyn. My TDS from the wall is 17. Zero after rodi. My triton icp test came back with high tin (17ug/l) and slight elevated alummium. I will have to send in another test next month to see if my tin level decrease or increase also.
Also where did you get a tin test kit?
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Last edited by cybermeez; 09-15-2019 at 08:21 PM..
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Old 09-15-2019, 08:20 PM
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As you know, I’ve been battling metal contamination in my RO/DI water since moving to a new apartment in June. I added 3 deionization resin canisters to my RO/DI filter and sent the resulting product water out for a 3rd test to see if it fixed the problem.

Since ATI will also test your RO/DI water for free along with a saltwater sample, I chose to go with them for this 3rd test. The results came back at the beginning of the week and they were still positive for tin, zinc and manganese. Even more confusing, the sample of saltwater I sent them had lower contamination than the RO/Di sample, despite the fact that I used the very same RO/DI to make the saltwater.

After numerous email exchanges with Triton and BRS where the I got the DI expansion, the conclusion was that the test had to be wrong. Still not totally convinced I decided to add one more canister to the RO/DI unit filled with PolyFilter pads. They absorb all sorts of contaminants and if there really is any metal still in my RO/DI water the PolyFilter should absorb it.

Today comes the final test before using the water in my tank. To do it, I mixed up a couple gallons of saltwater in a bucket and bought a “cheap” green Seiatapora frag to serve as the sacrificial lamb. I put it in the bucket of saltwater made with my RO/DI around noon. Since all the SPS that had previously been wiped out died within 24 hours of the water change that killed them, if this frag is still alive and well tomorrow morning, the water should be safe for my tank. I’ll let you know what happens.

BTW, the guys at BRS really went above and beyond the call of duty to help me figure this out. They even researched my problem in the literature. Also, despite the label on Triton’s Detox not stating that it would neutralize any of the metals I’ve been dealing with, Triton officially confirmed for me that it would detoxify them. Though I think using it on contaminated RO/DI water long term would be impractical due to the requirements and expense.
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Last edited by cybermeez; 09-15-2019 at 08:27 PM..
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Old 09-17-2019, 07:18 PM
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Finally some good news! The little seriatapora frag is still alive, meaning my RO/DI water is now safe to use. I don’t know if it was that the 3rd water test results from ATI were wrong or if the final canister in the RO filter filled with PolyFilter pads has removed any residual metal. I’ll test for that on another piece of SPS coral at some point in the future, but right now I’m just happy that for the first time since June I’ll be able to do a water change without using boxed water. I’ll finally be able to get the tank back in shape, do more frequent water changes again and stop specializing in growing hair algae.
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Last edited by cybermeez; 09-17-2019 at 07:22 PM..
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Old 09-17-2019, 07:30 PM
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Excellent!!
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Old 09-18-2019, 09:25 AM
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Is there a way you can run the water for a few minutes before you connect your RO system to it? This should clear out the pipes substantially. Leaching lead, tin, zink, etc. will sit in the pipe but once the water is flowing it should reduce the levels substatially. You can test this by running the 'tap' water for 5 minutes and then send a a sample of this water in. I would expect the levels to be normal or close to it.
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