Need Help Lowering Phosphate

[scallop]

Cerreta:

I have heard a lot of people have had success with macro algea in the sump on either a reverse or a 24/7 photoperiod and pruning for nutrient export. I recently installed my new sump and I'm going to throw in some Calerpa.
Hope this helps a little.

Good luck.

 

[Modo]

A decent sized water change will reduce the phosphate level down to acceptable levels. I have never used phosphate reducing filter pads because of several books and reputable people recommending against them. Something about the filter media releasing aluminium into the water.

Since your tank is still going through the cycling period I wouldn't worry too much about it. Your params look suprisingly good for just running for 3 weeks!

The die off from the LR is most likely the culprit of the problem. The algae and critters release phosphates into the water as they decompose.

 

[BROKER]

Make sure your water source is not high in phosphates. If it is buy an RO/DI unit. Actually it is good to have one anyway. I have used phosphate sponges, but I think water changes helped the most.

 

[Mouse]

RoaPhos, all other phospate removing compounds are aluminum based and cause the phosphates to clump together untill they are large enough to be removed by mechanical filtration (and untill you clean the filters are still active in the water column). Over use can also be harmfull to corals. RoaPhos absorbs and removes the phosphates from the water column alltogehter and is not harmfull to inverts. Phosphates are a certainty, your rocks leach them (flame me i dont care but they do, so there!). Place any rock in a tub for a while and you will know what i mean. And if you dont use RO/DI allready then i would change before people start to call you a mug.

 

[cerreta]

My tank is only three weeks old and I am going through the standard algal bloom. My water quality was checked today: pH=8.1; SG=1.022; Temp=79.2; dKH=11.5. All of the following in ppm NH3=0; NO2=.02; NO3=<1; Ca=424 PO4=2.0; Si=0.
I would like to hear some peoples personal experience with phosphate removers and how well they worked. I do not have a filter to put them in, so if it is media, I plan on putting it in a filter bag and dropping it in my sump (baffle area). What about those phosphate pads? Can I put this in my baffle are too? Anyone have good results with this?
Cheers,
Scott

 

[fudge1]

Although not a cure for the problem if it is source water thats Po4 contaminated,the regular use of Kalkwasser will precipitate Phosphates.

Marc.

 

[skeeter1]

KENT MARINE PHOSPHATE SPONGE WORKS REALLY WELL

 

[cerreta]

Thanks for the comments,keep them coming. For clarifications sake, I use RO/DI water and have good portions of Macro algae in my reugium running with a reverse cycle lighting scheme. The reason the water measurements are doing so well is partly because all rocks and sand came from my previous 10 month old system. I do think this is just part of the cycling phase, but I want to try to remove as much phospahate as possible so the cessation of the algal bloom will come sooner. Has anyone tried the phosphate sponge? Mouse, where can I find RhoPhos?
Cheers,
Scott

 

[smokin reefer]

And if you dont use RO/DI allready then i would change before people start to call you a mug.

What is a mug? Face, arm, leg ***hole???????????????????

 

[reefhope]

I've had good results using PHOSGUARD (I think it is made by Kent), can put in filter bag place in sump or area of high water flow.

will take some time but it will remove phosphate from the water. Also macroalgea will use phosphate that is present, just keep it pruned or else it could us up the nutrients in the tank and crash and release the nutrients back into the tank. I started out the hobby using tapwater so I have some experience dealing with phosphate and the related algea blooms from it-Good Luck

 

[fishgills]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by cerreta:
<STRONG>My tank is only three weeks old and I am going through the standard algal bloom. My water quality was checked today: pH=8.1; SG=1.022; Temp=79.2; dKH=11.5. All of the following in ppm NH3=0; NO2=.02; NO3=<1; Ca=424 PO4=2.0; Si=0.
I would like to hear some peoples personal experience with phosphate removers and how well they worked. I do not have a filter to put them in, so if it is media, I plan on putting it in a filter bag and dropping it in my sump (baffle area). What about those phosphate pads? Can I put this in my baffle are too? Anyone have good results with this?
Cheers,
Scott</STRONG><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I use PhosGuard made by Seachem, it works pretty good keeps everything in check, i change it when it turns from white to a brown color then you know it has to be changed, hope this helps good luck

 

[jdeets]

My Rx would be patience. You'll typically see elevated PO4 levels in a new tank and they'll come down on their own. The die-off that causes ammonia/nitrite/nitrate also releases PO4 into the water. If you're patient the PO4 should come down as your tank matures.

 

[cerreta]

Okay, here it is. I bought a Phosphate Sponge made by Tropical Science ($20.00 ouch) and a 250ml vial of Seachem Phosgaurd.
The sponge advertises dramitic results. Claiming to lower Phosphate by 2ppm (800mg) in one dosing. This is fast too. The package comes with two sponges. The sponge basically looks like a thin, moist sponge loaded with red algaes. I was impresssed and it seems like a natural way to sok up phosphate.
Anyhow, the directions say place one sponge directly in water flow for 24 hours and discard. Then, place second sponges in same location for 48 hours and discard. Seems like a very fast product and seem sliek a miracle cure. I placed the sponge in my sump between the baffles and put a filter bag full of phosguard 4 inches directly above the sponges on eggcrate. It has benn 22 hours!

I will go test the water now and let you all know the results.

On 7/25 tank =2ppm PO4
On 8/3 tank =1.8ppm
Sponge and Phosgaurd added 8/3/01 at 2300

...to be continued
Cheers,
Scott

 

[cerreta]

Patience...what's that?!

Thanks for your help.
Cheers,
Scott

 

[Mouse]

Phosgaurd from seachem is the worst of the Aluminum based phosphate removing compunds. It kills corals over time and does not effectivly remove phosphates from the water column, it relys on the mechanical filtration to remove it once it clumps together. And even so untill you clean the mechanical filtration it is still present and active in the water column.

ROWAPHOS IS THE ONLY NON ALUMINUM BASED PHOSPHATE REMOVING COMPUND, IT HAS ONLY JUST BEEN RELEASED ONTO THE MARKET. THERE ARE NO OTHERS LIKE IT. IF YOU WANT TO CONTROLL PHOSPHATES AND CREATE AN ONGOING SOLUTION TO A LONG TERM PROBLEM WITHOUT KILLING OFF CORALS THEN THIS IS YOUR ONLY OPTION. JUST ASK NATHAN!

Unless you guys want to build a 24 hour photopereod macro algal refugeum, and use Kalkwasser. but even so your not going to get rid of all of it. There is no such thing as an "acceptable" level of phosphates. Unless you like your reefs to look like the lagoon variety. Beleve me when i say that phosphates will comprimise your chances of success.

P.S. - a "mug" would be someone that spends days and days building a house. Maticulously right down to the last detail, but forgets to put a door in. Some of the old school might disagree about the importance of RO/DI. But then they have probably been through so many corals over the years that they have eventually accumulated a freak collection that can withstand their poor water quality. Have you ever heard of Flouride? Tap water is for goldfish, i wouldn't even put it in a FW tank. Whats the point in spending all that money and time to correct the water chemistry once its in the tank, especially when its a million times simpler to get the chemistry right before you add it to the system and that way you can avoid all of the nasty conciquences of adding crappy water. But then again some people do seem to enjoy a challenge

 

[randy holmes-farley]

Mouse:

Don't tell me. Let me guess: you sell ROWAPHOS?

It's new, and it's the only way? I guess that all of the tanks with low phosphate levels now are using what? pre-release beta versions of ROWAPHOS?

ROWAPHOS is the only non-aluminum compound? What about the iron-based products?

There is no acceptable level of phosphate? There is phosphate in natural seawater, and there necessarily should be some in all reef tanks.

Phosguard doesn't work? I've used it myself with no problems. If you don't rinse it and have small particulates floating around, I agree that certain corals can be irritated, and maybe even killed in the long run with continuous use. Rinsing it, IME, eliminates that problem.

Phosguard relies on mechanical filtration to remove phosphate over time after it "clumps"? I've never had it clump. And pray tell what do you mean by mechanical filtration?

What's your point about fluoride? I add it to my tank, and think others should as well.

[ August 09, 2001: Message edited by: Randy Holmes-Farley ]

[ August 09, 2001: Message edited by: Randy Holmes-Farley ]

 

[yznhmr]

ONLY ONE WORD TO SAY" REFUGIUM"

 

[Mouse]

[ August 10, 2001: Message edited by: Mouse ]

 

[Mouse]

And your mum

 

[jdeets]

Scott, I still stand by my recommendation for patience. When I started my first tank, my PO4 was about 5 ppm. It came down on its own. My PO4 now is about 0.1 or 0.2 ppm. I don't think it will ever be zero. I use a Ca rxr and melting the media produces some PO4. There is phosphate in living things. When those living things die (i.e., die off while cycling a new tank) their constituents are released into the water.

If you still have high PO4 after 2-3 months, then you might look at some of the products to lower them. Otherwise, IMO you're better off just being patient than to pour chemicals into your reef to try to lower the PO4 at such an early stage.