ok i decided to vist the lfs near my work today as i got off a little early. so i walk in and see nothing impressive. as im looking around i hear the girl manager (nothing against women but she was a girl) telling this customer that to properly acclimate a fish to "put in her tank to let it sit for 5 min in the bag and then dump it in the tank. its important to get the temp right and then their fine." can you believe that! i almost fell on the floor :evil: . i promptly left the store as she was the manager and i wouldent get anywhere trying to complain. i stopped the woman who bought some fish and told her the correct way of doing it. and refered her to this web site for more info. any comments or other stupid lfs storys are welcome :lol:
More LFS BS Advice
- Thread starter Will C1
- Start date
Hmmm...well in all honesty, you ARE overreacting just a bit. She's right for the most part. The real issue is that the fish should be quarantined first before adding to the display tank.
I've been keeping fish for over 20 years, and I worked at an LFS when I was younger. I don't ever get all the dither about acclimating things. As long as the fish hasn't been in the bag for hours, there really isn't much of an issue. I float for 10 minutes, maybe add some tank water in a small container with the new fish, then drop it in. Keeping a fish in a small container and acclimating it for 30 minutes is not a wise thing to do, as the fish just gets more stressed due to ammonia poisoning.
In years of doing this, and many, MANY fish - I've never had an issue. The only thing I take extra time to acclimate are starfish, abalones, and a few of the more delicate critters. Actually, there are a few fish that require some extra care, but not many. Even corals are dropped right in for the most part - never had any losses due to acclimation stress. The good thing is that MOST of the time, if you take extra precautions, you are not harming the animal.
Some will disagree with me, but my statements are based upon years of experience, not what I've read or heard about.
To each his own, but your reaction to this girl seems a bit disproportionate to what actually happened. Having said that, I'm glad you cared enough to help another hobbiest for whatever good it did her.
Cheers
Jim
I've been keeping fish for over 20 years, and I worked at an LFS when I was younger. I don't ever get all the dither about acclimating things. As long as the fish hasn't been in the bag for hours, there really isn't much of an issue. I float for 10 minutes, maybe add some tank water in a small container with the new fish, then drop it in. Keeping a fish in a small container and acclimating it for 30 minutes is not a wise thing to do, as the fish just gets more stressed due to ammonia poisoning.
In years of doing this, and many, MANY fish - I've never had an issue. The only thing I take extra time to acclimate are starfish, abalones, and a few of the more delicate critters. Actually, there are a few fish that require some extra care, but not many. Even corals are dropped right in for the most part - never had any losses due to acclimation stress. The good thing is that MOST of the time, if you take extra precautions, you are not harming the animal.
Some will disagree with me, but my statements are based upon years of experience, not what I've read or heard about.
To each his own, but your reaction to this girl seems a bit disproportionate to what actually happened. Having said that, I'm glad you cared enough to help another hobbiest for whatever good it did her.
Cheers
Jim
Here are the standard acclimation procedures according to my preffered MO reef supplier:
1)Turn off your aquarium lights (reduces stress), and float the unopened bag for 15-20 minutes to equalize the temperature in the bag with that of your aquarium.
2)Open the bag, and float in your aquarium.
Add 1 cup of aquarium water to the bag.
3)Wait 7-10 minutes, and add 1 cup of aquarium water to the floating bag.
4)Repeat steps 3 & 4 until bag is almost full.
5)Remove half of the water from the bag and repeat steps 3 & 4 until bag is almost full.
Do not add the waste water to your aquarium!
6)Remove your fish or invertebrate from the bag and add to your aquarium.
7)Dispose of the waste water.
8)Leave your aquarium lights off for at least 12 hours. This will allow your new arrival time to adjust to it's new home, and will help reduce harassment from your existing animals.
I realize shipping cross-country isn't the same as buying from your neighbourhood LFS , BUT, many LFS' keep their salinity at 1.120 or even lower (for cost savings :roll: ) like many reefers I keep my salinity at 1.125. While I agree that many fish can handle this rough treatment I wouldn't recommend it. If your fish is not obviously stressed (from ammonia being the most likely culprit, which shouldn't really be an issue when buying from the LFS) I would take the time to properly acclimate for salinity,temp and PH. I also agree that QT tanks are the safest bet. IMO this PH/temp/salinty shock may often be the cause of new fish diseases/deaths that are commonly attributed to general "stress" or cyanide or a "bad fish".
1)Turn off your aquarium lights (reduces stress), and float the unopened bag for 15-20 minutes to equalize the temperature in the bag with that of your aquarium.
2)Open the bag, and float in your aquarium.
Add 1 cup of aquarium water to the bag.
3)Wait 7-10 minutes, and add 1 cup of aquarium water to the floating bag.
4)Repeat steps 3 & 4 until bag is almost full.
5)Remove half of the water from the bag and repeat steps 3 & 4 until bag is almost full.
Do not add the waste water to your aquarium!
6)Remove your fish or invertebrate from the bag and add to your aquarium.
7)Dispose of the waste water.
8)Leave your aquarium lights off for at least 12 hours. This will allow your new arrival time to adjust to it's new home, and will help reduce harassment from your existing animals.
I realize shipping cross-country isn't the same as buying from your neighbourhood LFS , BUT, many LFS' keep their salinity at 1.120 or even lower (for cost savings :roll: ) like many reefers I keep my salinity at 1.125. While I agree that many fish can handle this rough treatment I wouldn't recommend it. If your fish is not obviously stressed (from ammonia being the most likely culprit, which shouldn't really be an issue when buying from the LFS) I would take the time to properly acclimate for salinity,temp and PH. I also agree that QT tanks are the safest bet. IMO this PH/temp/salinty shock may often be the cause of new fish diseases/deaths that are commonly attributed to general "stress" or cyanide or a "bad fish".
You definitely don't want to PH shock them, but honestly, I've never had any issues. I'm not saying everyone should do it like I do, it's just my way and it works for me. The advice given above by Save_the Expos is very good, and will work great - especially for more delicate specimens.
Jim
Jim
Nor have I ever had an issue. I just float the bag for a few minutes for temp equalization. Then I slit the bag a little which allows gradual water exchange for another few minutes. Lights off. Never had a problem.
Speaking of LFS's...
They are the prime reason I don't have a dsb
. They said I didn't need one when I set up my tank a couple years ago. After joining this bbs, I realize I likely do. Just think, they could have sold me a pile more sand as well as some other stuff that (as it turns out) I didn't need.
Speaking of LFS's...
They are the prime reason I don't have a dsb
. They said I didn't need one when I set up my tank a couple years ago. After joining this bbs, I realize I likely do. Just think, they could have sold me a pile more sand as well as some other stuff that (as it turns out) I didn't need.Just to clarify if you order your fish MO (online) they are sometimes shipped with copper to avoid parasitic infection. Obviously, you don't want this water in your tank at all. Nor would I trust my LFS water for that matter.
Regardless of how you decide to acclimate I would NEVER add any "new fish" water to my tank.
Watched an LFS manager tell a 8 y/o and his father that Powder Blue Tangs were easy to keep.
Had an LFS employee tell me I need a cleaner wrasse, that cleaner shrimps were no good, and cleaner wrasses are very easy to keep. Had fun explaining the feeding issues of cleaner wrasses to this guy, who promptly quit that LFS.
Had an LFS manager tell me I cant keep more than 1 sixline wrasse, 1 flame angel, and 1 yellowtail damsel in a 75 gallon reef, becuase too much waste would be produced by adding any more. This same manager said "Deep sand beds are a pure myth. They'll never work, and your fish and corals will just die. Crushed coral is the only way to go, as it also buffers the ph" (I then explained to him exactly how low the ph would have to drop for this "buffering" to occur, thanks to the help of Randy Holmes-Farley's info).
Had an LFS sell me a w/d, telling me its perfect for a reef tank (that was before I found this board, damn.).
Had an LFS employee tell me I need a cleaner wrasse, that cleaner shrimps were no good, and cleaner wrasses are very easy to keep. Had fun explaining the feeding issues of cleaner wrasses to this guy, who promptly quit that LFS.
Had an LFS manager tell me I cant keep more than 1 sixline wrasse, 1 flame angel, and 1 yellowtail damsel in a 75 gallon reef, becuase too much waste would be produced by adding any more. This same manager said "Deep sand beds are a pure myth. They'll never work, and your fish and corals will just die. Crushed coral is the only way to go, as it also buffers the ph" (I then explained to him exactly how low the ph would have to drop for this "buffering" to occur, thanks to the help of Randy Holmes-Farley's info).
Had an LFS sell me a w/d, telling me its perfect for a reef tank (that was before I found this board, damn.).
Taz, thank you so much for defending cleaner wrasses. Way too many of them are dying in uninformed aquarist's tanks every single year. Please, any one reading this, buy a cleaner shrimp, instead.
JimM, couldn't agree more with the tank water from the LFS!!! How many do this not knowing if the LFS uses copper in their tanks? NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, put LFS' water in your tank!!! I hope you understood that. 8O
JimM, couldn't agree more with the tank water from the LFS!!! How many do this not knowing if the LFS uses copper in their tanks? NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, put LFS' water in your tank!!! I hope you understood that. 8O
I am probably going to get yelled at but I put LFS water in my tank. I have been using him for quite some time now and have never had a problem with anything I have ever bought from him. But I do agree if you dont know the LFS and arent sure about there methods than dont add there water. I just find that sometimes the bacteria in there water can help your tank out. But like I said you have to know that the water is safe.
Sponsor Reefs
We're a FREE website, and we exist because of hobbyists like YOU who help us run this community.
Click here to sponsor $10:
