My nitrates in my aquarium are at about 200ppm. I purchaesd a ro/di unit with five stage filtration a aqua clear pro series 150 wet/dry sytem. my tank is 75 gallons. I have starburst polyps a spaghetti finger, several mushrooms. They all seem to be doing fine. My phospates are near 0. I was told to remove the bio balls from diferent sources. I replace the skimmer with an aqua c remora pro that i already had on the tank and place it on the sump. I have twelve mangrove plants. That i have on the retun side. The wet dry is dry new. I am converting from an ehiem wet dry canister. I also have about 80lbs of live rock. how can I convert this into a refugium with a sand bed. I also have a yellow, naso, and blue tang and two ocellaris clowns, two tomato clowns, a coral beauty, and two reef damsels. Sorry for the long question. I also have two 250 watt mh with vho actinic tubes. The tank has been running for about five years. I just got into corals about three months ago. I also use live sand.
High nitrates help!
- Thread starter kdejour
- Start date
Since you have live sand and 80# of LR, you really do not need any canister at all. I do not know your feeding regime, but I suspect your tanks nutrient input is quite high since you have so many fish. High NO3 is usually not a big problem back in your days of fish only tank, but can become a real pain in the arse for reef.
I would suggest you give up at least one tang (I would sell off the naso, as it will get really big). I would also keep only one specie of the clown. Eventually the tomato will hassle the ocellaris to death. If you can sell off another tang, leaving only one in your tank will be the best.
Too much nutrient into the tank, with the help of the ever so efficient nitrifying bacteria in the canister and the LR, your NO3 will definetly be high. Remora is OK for your tank, but I would prefer something more powerful for the load you have.
I don't think you can convert the canister into a fuge. You need a light source for the fuge, and the canister......well, I don't know where you want to put the light.
I would suggest you give up at least one tang (I would sell off the naso, as it will get really big). I would also keep only one specie of the clown. Eventually the tomato will hassle the ocellaris to death. If you can sell off another tang, leaving only one in your tank will be the best.
Too much nutrient into the tank, with the help of the ever so efficient nitrifying bacteria in the canister and the LR, your NO3 will definetly be high. Remora is OK for your tank, but I would prefer something more powerful for the load you have.
I don't think you can convert the canister into a fuge. You need a light source for the fuge, and the canister......well, I don't know where you want to put the light.
I might have missed it, but how often do you do water changes?
That is a high nitrate level. Have you verified it with a different test kit?
I suggest you do at least a 50% water change and follow it up with weekly 25% changes until the levels get down. Thereafter, 10% every 2 weeks is sufficient for most tanks.
You need to figure out why it was that high in the first place though.
That is a high nitrate level. Have you verified it with a different test kit?
I suggest you do at least a 50% water change and follow it up with weekly 25% changes until the levels get down. Thereafter, 10% every 2 weeks is sufficient for most tanks.
You need to figure out why it was that high in the first place though.
Is this what you have?
If yes, you are going to have a problem with converting it into a fuge. The description I read is skimmer before biological area. Then the water probably travel underneath the bioball, through the sponge to the next compartment?
In a typical fuge, you will have a layer of sand. You will have problem with debris makes into the next compartment and detroy your pump.
Unless you could seal off the bottom opening, and make a few cuts on the top so water can flow to the next compartment, where you could limit the chances of sand make their way to your pump.
If you could do that, then Yes, clean out the center compartment completely and it will be a good functional fuge.
I apologize for misreading your original question.
If yes, you are going to have a problem with converting it into a fuge. The description I read is skimmer before biological area. Then the water probably travel underneath the bioball, through the sponge to the next compartment?
In a typical fuge, you will have a layer of sand. You will have problem with debris makes into the next compartment and detroy your pump.
Unless you could seal off the bottom opening, and make a few cuts on the top so water can flow to the next compartment, where you could limit the chances of sand make their way to your pump.
If you could do that, then Yes, clean out the center compartment completely and it will be a good functional fuge.
I apologize for misreading your original question.
kdejour":1jb5sa3r said:
As you have already found out, partial water changes will not bring nitrAtes down to 0.0.
I had the same nitrate levels in my 55g until I added plant life.
I highly recommend you add plant life to the system. In a refugium sure but it is the plant life that will bring the nitrAtes down to 0.0 and make the system more stable. In my experience and with total nitrAtes already around 200ppm about a pound for every 50g of volumn would be a good starting point. I use chaeto and caulerpa profilera plus smaller amounts of other macros.
External refugiums of 30% or greater of the display are really helpful. In my case a 10% external refug with low lighting did not lower nitrAtes, but an in tank refug with higher lighting brought them down to 0.0 in few months. They have remained at 0.0 for months now. Plus calcium, alk, and mag have also remained constant. Ph vaies through the day but that values at a given time are stable from day to day. I now know I should have started with system with plant life. But live and learn.
Thanks for the response. I have about 12 mangrove plants in the return side at the moment that I added abuot three weeks ago. I am trying to get the refuge set up so I can add some macro. If I get the refuge setup I will have about 30 or so gallons of usable area. You guys are great and thanks for all the responses.
kdejour":bpy5ruf1 said:
Or sorry. Sure sounds like you are on the right track. I don't have any experience with mangroves to report back if you have a chance.
Hopefully one day you will test nitrates and then pick up you mouth off the floor.
It can take awhile for the plant life to build up. But once there nitrAtes can drop to 0.0 in a very short time. Like a matter of days not weeks.kdejour":2a1nl5k7 said:
Basically you just partition the tank. I just crammed an egg crate light diffuser about 3" from the back wall. It really took when I added 2 4' 2 tube utility lights about 6" from the back glass. Costs egg crate $10, fixtures $16, tubes $2 (on sale normally $10) 4100K.
Not the best pictures but you can get the general idea from this link: http://reefs.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=57481
So just use your immagination and see what you come up with. For instance if you want the back and front to be visible, then partition off the left and/or right sides. Also, black egg crate is available on line which would be less noticable than the white I used.
I just wish I had done this from the beginning, and bought a 120g tank. I would have had a much better system for much less money than what I have now. But live and learn. Plus the internal refug can not create floods.
Hi,
I am surprised that no one has menitoned any type of macroalgae to you as a nutrient export, but perhaps its becuase you have no fuge yet.
Don't count on the mangroves doing wonders as I have tried many from many sources in the past with different lighting combos, etc., etc,... some mangroves that are shipped out there are fresh water grown and have not even been acclimated to salt water conditions... furthermore unless you spray the leaves daily to wash their uptake of salt off you will encounter additional challenges with these plants...
With that said, from my personal experience one of the best means of keeping your nitrates in check I have found is by purchasing a ball of the macroalgae: chaetomorpha (do searches for pictures, info, etc.) which is like a green steel wool scrub sponge sort of but just a plant!
You can throw it in your sump anywhere that it will not get sucked up by a pump and put any wattage (I only use very low less than 40w) lighting and you will eventually see your nitrates drop and the chaeto grow! My research suggests that they prefer the incadescent bulbs vice flourescent but I have read of folks who do fine with the latter. I use incadescent on mine at night (I am a power miser).
So bottom line get some Chaetomorpha in there, you WILL be surprised AND it is possibly the only macro that 100% will NOT go sexual on you (that is a whole other explanation... )
Good Luck.
I am surprised that no one has menitoned any type of macroalgae to you as a nutrient export, but perhaps its becuase you have no fuge yet.
Don't count on the mangroves doing wonders as I have tried many from many sources in the past with different lighting combos, etc., etc,... some mangroves that are shipped out there are fresh water grown and have not even been acclimated to salt water conditions... furthermore unless you spray the leaves daily to wash their uptake of salt off you will encounter additional challenges with these plants...
With that said, from my personal experience one of the best means of keeping your nitrates in check I have found is by purchasing a ball of the macroalgae: chaetomorpha (do searches for pictures, info, etc.) which is like a green steel wool scrub sponge sort of but just a plant!
You can throw it in your sump anywhere that it will not get sucked up by a pump and put any wattage (I only use very low less than 40w) lighting and you will eventually see your nitrates drop and the chaeto grow! My research suggests that they prefer the incadescent bulbs vice flourescent but I have read of folks who do fine with the latter. I use incadescent on mine at night (I am a power miser).
So bottom line get some Chaetomorpha in there, you WILL be surprised AND it is possibly the only macro that 100% will NOT go sexual on you (that is a whole other explanation... )
Good Luck.
Thanks for the advice I wiil try picking up some. Will I need sand for it? And also if I remove the bio balls and place it in the sump would this work? The picture of my filter is on this page. I guess if I need sand in there than the spnge would have to be removed. Any suggestions? Thanks for the help.
First DON'T remove your bio-balls as you may think as many people who get erroneous advice do that it is o.k. to do so, that your live rock will "handle the bio-load" but I say NO to all that. I have heard of too many systems that have crashed when bio-balls were instantly taken out!!! IF YOU REALLY WANT TO TAKE YOUR BIO-BALLS OUT... because it is true that they are somewhat of a "nitrate factory"... you must do it gradually, to allow equilibrium to be maintained/offset. Now on the other hand you will be giving up what I consider an undisputable back-up bio-filter in your system should you ever need to instantly set up a Q. tank or somehow your live rock does not keep up with the bio-load you are generating due to added life, increased feedings or whatever the cause... This is why I refuse to get rid of all my bio-balls even tho I agree that they do produce undesireable amounts of nitrates in our systems... BUT THEY ARE ALSO MY PEACE OF MIND SECURITY SYSTEM...
SO... the trick is to have enough of whatever it takes to absorb all that extra nitrate... and THAT IS THE AWESOME MACRO: CHAETOMORPHA, which I repeat "does NOT go sexual"...
AND on to your 2nd question... it is free floating... does not require anything accept average to low flow and light. It does not root... that I have noticed... I have not even ever seen roots on it! I have been using it as my sole macro for years! To help it grow you just spread it out some i.e. as it grows you take some out and sell or give to fellow reefers, and sort of pull on it to spread/thin it out some... Due to using low wattage lighting mine does not grow very fast, but it DOES noticeably grow. Another reason I use low wattage (other than as I mentioned being very conscious of every watt I use) is that I also have about a 30x13 in deep sand bed (DSB=about 6-7in) with a Jaubert plenum in my 70g sump. This is another nitrate reduction method which you can read about if you are not already familiar. It is somewhat controversial but I am a "hybrid-man" choosing to synthesize the best of all that our hobby has to offer... tho I research anything I incorporate into my system to the hilt before I make the leap!
To recap: Don't remove your bio-balls all at once if at all! And you don't need sand for the chaeto, just flow and light.
Regards.
SO... the trick is to have enough of whatever it takes to absorb all that extra nitrate... and THAT IS THE AWESOME MACRO: CHAETOMORPHA, which I repeat "does NOT go sexual"...
AND on to your 2nd question... it is free floating... does not require anything accept average to low flow and light. It does not root... that I have noticed... I have not even ever seen roots on it! I have been using it as my sole macro for years! To help it grow you just spread it out some i.e. as it grows you take some out and sell or give to fellow reefers, and sort of pull on it to spread/thin it out some... Due to using low wattage lighting mine does not grow very fast, but it DOES noticeably grow. Another reason I use low wattage (other than as I mentioned being very conscious of every watt I use) is that I also have about a 30x13 in deep sand bed (DSB=about 6-7in) with a Jaubert plenum in my 70g sump. This is another nitrate reduction method which you can read about if you are not already familiar. It is somewhat controversial but I am a "hybrid-man" choosing to synthesize the best of all that our hobby has to offer... tho I research anything I incorporate into my system to the hilt before I make the leap!
To recap: Don't remove your bio-balls all at once if at all! And you don't need sand for the chaeto, just flow and light.
Regards.
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