Specs for new Tank (diagram)

[smit1260]

Below is a basic diagram for a new tank I am designing. I tried to be cheap while not skimping. Here are the specs let me know what ya think. Mixed reef with Red Sea corals and fish.

40 gallon breeder all-glass
2 x 175W halide
2 x 65w actinics
Neptune controller (already own)
2 x 8 watt blue bulbs on moon cycle
Custom sump 3 gallons and refugium 5 gallons in rear of tank
half of 20 long for freshwater top off
other half for autowater change make-up water
another 20 long for drained tank water.
filter sock for clear water
2 maxi-jets for flow
sand bottom

auto water change will change 1 gallon when I hit the feed cycle each day. Toxins in/toxins out

Pictures coming when I get water in it.

 

[Anonymous]

Random comments:
1, did you account for the float valve operation during water change cycle? That is, will it comes on as the water drained?

2, is the sand bed elevated? how is it compartmented in the sump (diagram not specific enough)

3, is there a way to do without the pump? Can you let the water from tank to drain thru the sock and flow down by gravity?

 

[spaulr]

What are you going to be keeping in the tank? 2x175 MH is a LOT of light. I have a 40 right now and have a 150w DE halide. It puts out a ton of light. If you're going to be keeping SPS or clams I think thats perfect. IMO, for other less light demanding corals (with that setup) you may have to be creative in your aquascaping to keep them.

 

[smit1260]

Thanks for your response. Here is an attempt an answer your comments

1.) I did try and accout for the float valves. I will actually have 2 float valves. The freshwater top off will be 1/4" above another float valve. During normal operation as water evaporates the electronic float value will bring freshwater from below the stand. When I hit the feed cycle button it will turn of the main pump. So that the food will just stay in the tank and not go into the sump. As the water level rises in the sump it will drain out thorugh the drain. Then after a set period of time the main pump will kick on and start lowering the level in the sump. This will kick on both the electronic float valves. However the freshwater top-off pump will be extremely small and valved down so that not much freshwater will be added at this time. Theory is great but I am sure I will run into problems when I build it. I got the idea from a dishwasher in a resturant that changes water automatically.

2.) The sand bed will be elavated. The reasoning for this is to gain sump space and not waste space. Also it gets the macro algae closer to the surface. Just to be clear there is not a separate sump. It will all be in the back of the tank.

3.) The water will be flowing through the sock by gravity and then pump from the sump into the refugium and then it will drain out the refugium into the tank. I did this to avoid having a pump after the refugium.

I plan to keep mostly sps but also some high light softies such as xenia. My last tank 4 years ago had 2000W of light on a 140 Gallon. Does anyone think this will be to much light for a bubble anemone?