Can you guys please help me pick out an RO/DI unit?! Please?

[bleedingthought]

HELP!

Every time I research it more, I seem to get more confused about which direction I should take. I need/wanted to find a unit that:

1) Is easy to use;
2) Is affordable;
3) Is not gonna going to cost much more than others when replacing filters (making it more expensive than others in the long run);
4) Is not going to have a high TDS reading in the end (I've heard that low end/high GPD units can do this).

I am really unfamiliar with RO/DI units and really don't know which route to go.

Any help is GREATLY appreciated.

TIA!

 

[Anonymous]

http://www.buckeyefieldsupply.com/showproducts.asp?Category=168&Sub=166

Get the 50 or 75 GPD unit.

Have them add an auto shut-off valve. Ask them to install the ASV for you.

Louey

 

[Anonymous]

Ditto what Louey said.

And while you're there, do yourself a favor and add in 5 lbs of DI resin refill..

http://www.buckeyefieldsupply.com/showp ... 40&Sub=127


Buckeye has been a great place to do biz with in my experience.

 

[bleedingthought]

Thanks a lot guys!

What would be the difference between the 50 and the 75 GPD units besides the amount of water produced? Any advantages of one over the other besides the quantity? (I noticed 50 GPD RO membranes are cheaper...)

And would I need the auto-top off unit to go along with that auto shut-off valve?

And on top of that DI resin refill, in order to save on shipping, I guess, should I go ahead an order extra filters/membranes now? And any other tools/accessories/gadgets to go with the unit?

 

[Anonymous]

Make sure you get a filter wrench and TDS meter. The lower GPD unit "may" have a better rejection rate which means you get cleaner water. Check the spec sheets on the units or ask the sales rep. I got my unit at airwaterice.com. I have actually never used it, yet.

 

[Anonymous]

The ASV will help when you shut off the output. Unless you are planning on disconnecting the unit everytime.

 

[Anonymous]

bleedingthought wrote:

And would I need the auto-top off unit

What is an auto top-off unit? I don't see that on their list of accessories.

The auto shut-off valve simply stops the unit from wasting water through the drain when it is not in use. It "shuts off". Otherwise the unit will continue to produce waste water even when it is not producing RO/DI water.

I guess, should I go ahead an order extra filters/membranes now?

I would. I'd order one spare membrane, 2 carbon filters, 2 DI filters, and 4 - 6 sediment filters.

You shouldn't need the extra membrane for a long time, but they are nice to have around in case of a failure. It does happen.

Louey

 

[Anonymous]

ANother note is to test your source water first.

My water is bad. I had to get an Hi-Silicate removal membrane and I use 2 DI filters.

 

[bleedingthought]

Make sure you get a filter wrench and TDS meter. The lower GPD unit "may" have a better rejection rate which means you get cleaner water. Check the spec sheets on the units or ask the sales rep. I got my unit at airwaterice.com. I have actually never used it, yet.

Mark, if you don't mind me asking, how much did you pay for your unit from airwaterice.com? And would this http://www.reefs.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.p ... ight=ro+di be a good deal?

What is an auto top-off unit? I don't see that on their list of accessories.

The auto shut-off valve simply stops the unit from wasting water through the drain when it is not in use. It "shuts off". Otherwise the unit will continue to produce waste water even when it is not producing RO/DI water.

I guess I just meant the float valve as the auto top-off. They have it here: http://www.buckeyefieldsupply.com/showp ... ecials=109 and I just had figured that the ASV would turn the unit off when the float valve was done refilling a container. So, what you're saying is that even if I turn the RO/DI unit off, it'll still produce water without the ASV? Is there even a "power button" for these things? Bear with me here, I've no clue. :?

ANother note is to test your source water first.

My water is bad. I had to get an Hi-Silicate removal membrane and I use 2 DI filters.

I don't have a TDS meter or a silicate test kit yet but what all should I test for in my tap water before getting a unit then?

 

[Anonymous]

Get a TDS meter.

 

[Anonymous]

Bleeding thought wrote:

guess I just meant the float valve as the auto top-off. They have it here: http://www.buckeyefieldsupply.com/showp ... ecials=109 and I just had figured that the ASV would turn the unit off when the float valve was done refilling a container. So, what you're saying is that even if I turn the RO/DI unit off, it'll still produce water without the ASV? Is there even a "power button" for these things? Bear with me here, I've no clue.

Okay. You do not need the float valve for the ASV. A float valve is used to fill a container to a certain height. I have on installed on my 130G WC vessel. They work great. But they have nothing to do with the ASV. The ASV does not require power to work. I'm not sure how they work to be honest. They just do.

Louey

 

[bleedingthought]

I meant if I were to turn off the unit itself it would still push water through it?

And while I'm at it, do RO/DI units need a water pump (or powerhead) to work? Or do they just work off of the plumbing lines' pressure to push the water through the unit?

 

[SnowManSnow]

i purchased mine from buckeye a few years ago and still love it.

b

 

[Anonymous]

bleeding thought wrote:

I meant if I were to turn off the unit itself it would still push water through it?

No, then you would not need the ASV. As long as the RO unit is shut off on the supply side, there would not be any water being pushed through it.

And while I'm at it, do RO/DI units need a water pump (or powerhead) to work? Or do they just work off of the plumbing lines' pressure to push the water through the unit?

They do not require a pump if you have adequate water pressure (like say 50-60 PSI).

They do make a permeate pump to help boost the pressure if it is not adequate. Most likely you will not need one of these.

Louey

 

[Anonymous]

Make sure you get a filter wrench and TDS meter. The lower GPD unit "may" have a better rejection rate which means you get cleaner water. Check the spec sheets on the units or ask the sales rep. I got my unit at airwaterice.com. I have actually never used it, yet.

Mark, if you don't mind me asking, how much did you pay for your unit from airwaterice.com? And would this http://www.reefs.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.p ... ight=ro+di be a good deal?

What is an auto top-off unit? I don't see that on their list of accessories.

The auto shut-off valve simply stops the unit from wasting water through the drain when it is not in use. It "shuts off". Otherwise the unit will continue to produce waste water even when it is not producing RO/DI water.

I guess I just meant the float valve as the auto top-off. They have it here: http://www.buckeyefieldsupply.com/showp ... ecials=109 and I just had figured that the ASV would turn the unit off when the float valve was done refilling a container. So, what you're saying is that even if I turn the RO/DI unit off, it'll still produce water without the ASV? Is there even a "power button" for these things? Bear with me here, I've no clue. :?

ANother note is to test your source water first.

My water is bad. I had to get an Hi-Silicate removal membrane and I use 2 DI filters.

I don't have a TDS meter or a silicate test kit yet but what all should I test for in my tap water before getting a unit then?

Mine was $200 for a 5 stage 75gpd unit.

 

[bleedingthought]

What's the difference between the 1 micron and the 5 micron sediments?

 

[Anonymous]

uhhh, 4 microns.

The microns are the pore sizes. The smaller the better.

Louey

 

[Ben1]

I also got mine from buckeye and it has worked very well.

 

[bleedingthought]

What GPD size units does everyone have?

And thanks a lot to everyone who has helped! Esp Louey.

 

[Anonymous]

I have two 75GPD units. I need more water than most people since my tank has about 475 gallons of water the system. One unit is dedicated to make-up water and the second one is dedicated to water change water.

I'd get the 75 since it doesn't cost more and you won't be sure what the true output is until you get it installed at your house. It is entirely possible that a 75 GPD unit might only produce 20 GPD.

Louey