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Eboman

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OK...I've finally gotten the "rough" plumbing done on my new AGA 210-gallon.

I still have a bunch more to do, but I figured I would, at least, fill it with tap water to see if it springs a leak (and to see if the floor caves in).

Here's everything before any water goes in.

DSC02299.jpg


I had to build a separate sump to hold my 12" Euroreef. It's too big to fit under the tank. I got it for cheap off of ebay and I can't wait to see it in action.

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One of the returns goes directly into the external sump and it's plumbed to feed back to the return pump.

I've already figured out one "flaw" with my design....I'm figuring I can build something around the external sump to keep "little toys" out.

DSC02311.jpg


So far...so good....
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Yahoo....no leaks!!!!

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I've got to drain the tank and finish up the plumbing. I'm going to try and make some type of "reverse-durso" system in each sump to minimize noise/bubbles. If anyone has any suggestions/links, please let me know.

Also, my return pump seems to be making a more noise than I thought it would. I think it's got a fan inside (because it sounds like a big-old fan when it's on).

I'll keep everyone posted....wish me luck!!!
Eboman
 
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Anonymous

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Looking good! As far as the "dropped toy" factor in the outside sump, you could probably mod a lid from one of those large rubbermaid totes to fit over it. They are easy to cut and el cheapo.
 
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Anonymous

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Looks good.

The skimmer is almost as big as your daughter
 

Eboman

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Thanks for the feedback everyone.....

I had no idea the skimmer was so big when I purchased it off of ebay. I had never actually seen a 12" Euroreef before, in person. When I got home and saw two huge boxes on my doorstep, I thought to myself....uh-oh. Nevertheless, when I opened it, I got that "Tim-the-toolman" feeling about the brute force skimming that thing will be doing and started trying to figure out how to keep it for this system -- the stand and tank were already in place.

pcardone.....why is tap water a bad idea?? I didn't want to waste almost 300 gallons of RO/DI just to make sure the thing didn't have any leaks. I'm going to drain everything tonight and work on baffles and stuff.

Lawdawg....great idea about using a rubbermaid lid. Eventually, I'm going to build a little cabinet to go around the entire skimmer/sump assembly (I already promised the wife...that's how I got her to let me keep the skimmer in the 1st place). But, in the meantime, the Rubbermaid lid should do the trick. I can put some plants on it and stuff (and the plants should do well once I get lighting in place).

Anyone know of any good ideas on how to set up the plumbing from the main tank into the sumps to reduce bubbles and spray (and noise)??

Thanks,
Eboman
 

dnorton1978

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Just my opinion here, but I filled both of my tanks with tap water for the initial fill. It is going to cycle anyway. From there on out doing water changes and top off's with ro/di takes care of it. I don't think the initial fill is a must. Just my opinion..

You are off to a good start. Large skimmers do give you the "more power" Tim the toolman feeling. I like that...
 

Unarce

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I didn't want to take any chances with my last set-up, and spent the extra $ starting it off with 100% NSW. The cycle blooms were very minor, and I was able to move my SPS in there in less than a month.

Not saying that you should go to that extreme, but I'd at least start it off with RO/DI or drinking water :wink:
 

Eboman

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Ahhhhh....I was waiting for someone to ask.....

The "control box" next to the pump is a sweet little deal I purchased from
www. oceanussystems.com

Please check them out (and I have no affiliation).

One of my biggest fears is for my system to overflow. The setup I got from them prevents overflows (or, at least, signals an alarm when my water levels in my main tank and/or sump gets too high and too low).

So far, it is pretty much awesome. Everything is electronic and is quite sturdy/reliable. So far, I've run it through the course of "bad things" and it pretty much does like it's supposed to.

The best part.......and they don't avertise this since I'm sure it's not a built in feature.....somehow the alarm signal gets picked up by my home fire alarm system. When the water gets too low or to high, not only does the controller siren go off....but my house fire alarms start chirping too.

I know I sound like I work for these folks....but I don't.....I paid a pretty penny for the sytem through AquaFX (another company I really dig). I'm just pretty stoked on how well it works.

Check it out....


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If the water in my "main" tank gets too high, the return pump shuts off and an alarm signals me that something is wrong...

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There are also multiple sensors in the sump that turn on my RO/DI unit to fill my system and/or shut it off. Plus, if it gets too low, my return pump shuts off and an alarm goes off (so I don't burn up a very expensive return pump). Not to mention, if the water gets too high in my sump, another alarm goes off to tell me something is wrong.

So far....I'm pretty happy with it. Plus the wifey is pretty confident that my new tank isn't going to flood our downstairs (which is a good thing, consinering how much $$$ I've already convinced her to spend on the system).

So far....so good.....I drained everything today.......tomorrow, I hope to install some baffles and get some live sand into the sump area (under the tank....not in the skimmer sump).

I'll keep everyone posted.....

Thanks again for the encouragement...
 

bleedingthought

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Interesting on the controller. It's a bit expensive but it looks nice! :) And if it works, that's what matters, right? ;)

I'll be joining you for the ride on this one!
 

JKDMan

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hey we got the same tank.. i just set mine up about a month ago
what do u mean by a reverse durso standpipe?
i also filled my tank with tap water for the inital fill and i still use it to top off,and everthing has been fine .
all though im considering switching to ro di for top off water just to see if i notice a diffrence
 

ooulophyllia

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Hey, looking at your plumbing you are already using flex - use flex PVC before and after the pump, and put the pump on a mouse pad (or piece of neoprene if you are a diver) for sound dampening - I use flex for all my plumbing (unless there is stress on it) makes it way quieter
And someone need to tell all glass that their overflows are ridiculosly small - one inch drains? - I just set up a 180 with 3 2 inch drains - their overflows were set up for old school wet drys for freshwater
 

bleedingthought

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Recirculation? Do you mean through the overflows? Each 1 inch bulkhead can only handle about 600GPH, AFAIK. So, you are looking at about 1200GPH total. Not that you would need/want more than that, anyways. :)
 

JKDMan

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ya through the overflows eace over flow can handle 1200gph and since there r 2 overflows 2400 gph for the whole tank,
i have the same exact tank and i had a mag 24 on it but i returned it because it made my sump look like class 5 rapids :)
 

bleedingthought

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JKDMan":2mi32a72 said:
ya through the overflows eace over flow can handle 1200gph and since there r 2 overflows 2400 gph for the whole tank,
i have the same exact tank and i had a mag 24 on it but i returned it because it made my sump look like class 5 rapids :)
Again, I'm almost positive that you have your numbers doubled. :)
 

JKDMan

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no its true i ran a 2400 gph pump on the tank and it could handle it the sump was just to crazy :wink:
 

ChrisRD

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I believe bleedingthought is right - I think AGA rates their overflows for 600 GPH.

Something you have to consider - a Mag 24 is rated for 2400 GPH with no head pressure. If you were using it as a return pump it had to overcome significant head pressure (and therefore was putting out a lot less than 2400 GPH). Depending on how you had your setup plumbed, it's quite possible that you only had 1200 GPH of net flow after losses.

HTH
 

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