Ro/di
- Thread starter alrha
- Start date
I'll start:
Personally, i have a 4 stage system (captive purity).
1) I screw the intake line directly to the faucet in my laundry room (put cold on high and a drop of hot till i feel the water coming out at room temperature).
2) It then flows through a 1 micron sediment filter.
3) from there is flows to a 0.5 micron carbon block.
4) it then flows to the RO membrane (75 gpd)
5) lastly it flows through the DI cartridge
6) waste water goes back into the sink, and RO/DI water into a Brute garbage can used as a reservoir (i fill up water jugs from here and carry the water up to my tank and water cooler).
I have a flush valve that i run for about 20 seconds every now and then that basically restricts the clean water output and forces the water to flow over the membrane faster and 'rinse' it.
i change the sediment filter when i notice decreased flow rates.
i change the carbon filter when i see it clogged (orange).
the DI is supposedly supposed to change color when exhausted, i never saw it change color, but changed it after one year as well as the RO membrane.
my tap water tests at ~45 TDS and my RO/DI tests at ~1 TDS.
Personally, i have a 4 stage system (captive purity).
1) I screw the intake line directly to the faucet in my laundry room (put cold on high and a drop of hot till i feel the water coming out at room temperature).
2) It then flows through a 1 micron sediment filter.
3) from there is flows to a 0.5 micron carbon block.
4) it then flows to the RO membrane (75 gpd)
5) lastly it flows through the DI cartridge
6) waste water goes back into the sink, and RO/DI water into a Brute garbage can used as a reservoir (i fill up water jugs from here and carry the water up to my tank and water cooler).
I have a flush valve that i run for about 20 seconds every now and then that basically restricts the clean water output and forces the water to flow over the membrane faster and 'rinse' it.
i change the sediment filter when i notice decreased flow rates.
i change the carbon filter when i see it clogged (orange).
the DI is supposedly supposed to change color when exhausted, i never saw it change color, but changed it after one year as well as the RO membrane.
my tap water tests at ~45 TDS and my RO/DI tests at ~1 TDS.
thanks for the schematic, do you happen to have one that shows a booster pump and a permeate pump together?
and here is something I have been thinking about for a while.
can I use my RO/DI to supply just RO water for drinking and RO/DI water for my topoff, without having to manually turn valves on and off?
I have a four gallon pressure tank to store the RO in and I would like to have a reservoir with a latching float switch for the topoff water.
and here is something I have been thinking about for a while.
can I use my RO/DI to supply just RO water for drinking and RO/DI water for my topoff, without having to manually turn valves on and off?
I have a four gallon pressure tank to store the RO in and I would like to have a reservoir with a latching float switch for the topoff water.
you only need one pump ,permeate pump or booster pump ,the permeate is power by brine which is the waste water from ro membrane,the booster pump is power by electric ,yes you can just ad a tee between the ro membrane and the di filter,the di should be the last stage,
frank
frank
the permeate pump will save water by recirclutaing the brine, it adds some pressure by using the back pressure of the brine as well.
the booster pump is for power only, you can get a pressure valve for about $10 I think, it will tell you the incoming pressure.
the booster pump is for power only, you can get a pressure valve for about $10 I think, it will tell you the incoming pressure.
well i dont really need the permeate then. i use the waste water for my washing machine or just let it go down the drain. it really is not a significant amount of water that would add to my water bill. my latest bill just came in showing an avg daily usage of 300 gallons per day.
alrha said:
Would it be impossible for you to get a pic of it? Im not too keen on descriptions, I got one of those RO/DI filters from ebay, everyone who recomended it, seemed to consider it good stuff, Anyone else have one?
BTW I dont see it on the thread but what is considered the time frame of depletion?
I am having weird stringy brown algae (could be dino's) and am starting to suspect my RO/DI, but ive only had it 6mths and use it moderately.
AQUATEC Permeate Pump Installation Instructions
1. Mounting of Permeate Pump: We include Part Number 25-021 Permeate Mounting Clip Kit, (includes clip and 2 #10 x 3/4" self tapping screws). Mount the clip on the RO systems bracket or other suitable location using the two screws provided. We also provide the optional Quick Connect fittings already installed into the pump. Remove and discard the blue insert protectors that are inserted into the quick connect fittings.
2. The label clearly shows the location of each port. Mount the Permeate Pump with Outlets (both brine and permeate) positioned up. This step is VERY IMPORTANT to rid any entrapped air.
3. Shut off feed water and turn off product tank valve. Bleed residual pressure by opening the faucet.
4. Locate the "BRINE TO DRAIN" tube. it is extremely important that the flow restrictor is in front of (before) the "brine inlet" to the Permeate Pump. The pump will not operate if the restrictor is in the "BRINE OUT" line leading to the drain.
a. Insert tube firmly into "BRINE IN" fitting on the Permeate Pump. Be sure tube bottoms out in the fitting.
b. Connect a new length (long enough to reach the air gap drain) of tubing to the "BRINE OUT"
fitting on the Permeate Pump. Be sure tube bottoms out in the fitting. This tube connects directly to the air gap drain.
5. Locate the product water (permeate) tube exiting (after) the membrane leading to the inlet side of the hydraulic shut-off valve. The outlet tube from the hydraulic shut-off valve leads to the TEE on the inlet side of the post-filter which leads to the product water tank and the product delivery faucet as shown in Figure 4.
a. Disconnect the tube from the inlet side of the hydraulic shut-off valve and connect the tube to the "PERMEATE IN" fitting on the Permeate Pump. Be sure the tube bottoms out on the fitting.
b. Connect a new tube from the "PERMEATE OUT" fitting on the Permeate Pump to the inlet side of the hydraulic shut-off valve as shown in Figure 5. Be sure the tube bottoms out on the fitting. If it is desired not to use the hydraulic shut-off valve, connect the permeate pump as shown in Figure 6 (see installation notes).
6. Turn on feed water supply and open product tank valve. The Permeate Pump should begin cycling. An audible clicking sound will be heard as the pump operates. Be sure to point this out to your customer so that he understands that this is normal. This will avoid a service call later. Important: If pump is not cycling (clicking), make sure all connections are made correctly and that all entrapped air has been bled from the lines by just cracking open the faucet.
1. Mounting of Permeate Pump: We include Part Number 25-021 Permeate Mounting Clip Kit, (includes clip and 2 #10 x 3/4" self tapping screws). Mount the clip on the RO systems bracket or other suitable location using the two screws provided. We also provide the optional Quick Connect fittings already installed into the pump. Remove and discard the blue insert protectors that are inserted into the quick connect fittings.
2. The label clearly shows the location of each port. Mount the Permeate Pump with Outlets (both brine and permeate) positioned up. This step is VERY IMPORTANT to rid any entrapped air.
3. Shut off feed water and turn off product tank valve. Bleed residual pressure by opening the faucet.
4. Locate the "BRINE TO DRAIN" tube. it is extremely important that the flow restrictor is in front of (before) the "brine inlet" to the Permeate Pump. The pump will not operate if the restrictor is in the "BRINE OUT" line leading to the drain.
a. Insert tube firmly into "BRINE IN" fitting on the Permeate Pump. Be sure tube bottoms out in the fitting.
b. Connect a new length (long enough to reach the air gap drain) of tubing to the "BRINE OUT"
fitting on the Permeate Pump. Be sure tube bottoms out in the fitting. This tube connects directly to the air gap drain.
5. Locate the product water (permeate) tube exiting (after) the membrane leading to the inlet side of the hydraulic shut-off valve. The outlet tube from the hydraulic shut-off valve leads to the TEE on the inlet side of the post-filter which leads to the product water tank and the product delivery faucet as shown in Figure 4.
a. Disconnect the tube from the inlet side of the hydraulic shut-off valve and connect the tube to the "PERMEATE IN" fitting on the Permeate Pump. Be sure the tube bottoms out on the fitting.
b. Connect a new tube from the "PERMEATE OUT" fitting on the Permeate Pump to the inlet side of the hydraulic shut-off valve as shown in Figure 5. Be sure the tube bottoms out on the fitting. If it is desired not to use the hydraulic shut-off valve, connect the permeate pump as shown in Figure 6 (see installation notes).
6. Turn on feed water supply and open product tank valve. The Permeate Pump should begin cycling. An audible clicking sound will be heard as the pump operates. Be sure to point this out to your customer so that he understands that this is normal. This will avoid a service call later. Important: If pump is not cycling (clicking), make sure all connections are made correctly and that all entrapped air has been bled from the lines by just cracking open the faucet.
pimped out RO system
okay so i went a bit crazy and bought almost every gadget for my RO unit.
on it's way are all aquatec parts, the 8800 booster pump, the electronic pressure switch (sits over the tank), the electronic shut off valve, a 14 gallon Amtrol tank, and a new GE 75 gpd membrane. along with clips and other things to mount all the housings and filters to the wall of the sink.
so I understand how all the parts work on their own, I'm going to need some help in hooking it all up together. I'm still sketchy on where you tee off the water so it goes through the DI only for the aquarium make up water, and skips the DI for drinking water and ice.
okay so i went a bit crazy and bought almost every gadget for my RO unit.
on it's way are all aquatec parts, the 8800 booster pump, the electronic pressure switch (sits over the tank), the electronic shut off valve, a 14 gallon Amtrol tank, and a new GE 75 gpd membrane. along with clips and other things to mount all the housings and filters to the wall of the sink.
so I understand how all the parts work on their own, I'm going to need some help in hooking it all up together. I'm still sketchy on where you tee off the water so it goes through the DI only for the aquarium make up water, and skips the DI for drinking water and ice.
- Location
- Ossining, NY
JH,
I have the RO bypass - next time you're in towen, take a look and model
House
I have the RO bypass - next time you're in towen, take a look and model
House
Jonathan, I added a union tee after the RO filter; one output I sent to the DI cartridge while the other is used for drinking. I added a valve to each output so I could determine which way the water goes. There's probably an easier way, but DIY is fun too.
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