Some (simple) RO/Di questions

[E.intheC]

OK. I finally (after all these years) was able to score a used ro/di filter setup.

I ordered the 3 stage filters from Bulk Reef Supply (5 micron filter, a Carbon Cartridge, and DI Resin)..

Now, here are my questions..

The white-enclosed canister looking thing on the top that runs perpendicular to the clear vertical canisters.... that's the RO Membrane? (If not, what the heck is that, lol)

How do you change that out? Do you have to order an entire new housing, etc?

If the water goes through the white 5 micron filter, then the carbon, then the RO membrane, and finally to the Di section, is this setup correctly? From the reading that I've done, it looks like this is the typical setup, unless you have a separate Di canister.

I can't find an empty housing for the Di resin, and will order one online. However, in the meantime I need to make up about 20 gallons of water. Can I buy a smaller micron carbon unit and install this in the 3rd clear canister, and will that make sufficient "RO" water until then?

I feel incredibly daft with these questions, but I've been Googling, watching videos, etc etc.. and just can't find the answers I'm looking for.

Thanks in advance for the help

 

[E.intheC]

Now here's where it gets confusing.. (for me anyway)

The water intake goes into the left side of the RO membrane (we'll call this tube "a"). On that same side there is a second tube which comes out of the membrane ("b") and connects to the right canister.

There is also a tube "c" on the right side of the RO membrane which goes into the middle canister. There is tubing connecting the middle and the left hand side canister.

The left hand side canister has a tube that leads to no where (I'm assuming it's either the waste line or the RO line)

The right canister has an exit tube as well..

So.. Question is.. this can't be setup correctly? And if it is, which tube is the RO water and which is the exit?

 

[masterswimmer]

Eric, you're confusing the heck out of me. This is one of those situations that a picture is worth a 1,000 words.

I can help with every aspect you questioned, I just want to make sure we're talking about the same things.

Either post a pic or shoot the pic to me in an email. I'll set you straight.

R

 

[E.intheC]

haha.. It's confusing me.. I'm sure reading it is worse.. I'll try and get a pic.. Thanks Russ

 

[KathyC]

Eric, you're confusing the heck out of me. This is one of those situations that a picture is worth a 1,000 words.

I can help with every aspect you questioned, I just want to make sure we're talking about the same things.

Either post a pic or shoot the pic to me in an email. I'll set you straight.

R

lol..please post a pic..poor Russ, I can hear his head spinning from here!

btw - do you have a TDS meter for the rodi?

 

[TRIGGERMAN]

I had the same headache when I tried to hook up my fire water ice snow sleet hail tornado unit lmao that is one confusing thing

 

[E.intheC]

sigh.. some of the photos have errors. I'm working on getting pictures. In the (albeit relatively limited) time I've spent with full blown reef tanks (going on 4 years now..) ..the RO/DI system has been BY FAR the most difficult.

 

[E.intheC]

My stupid computer (actually, probably the operator) is having trouble uploading pictures.. Here's one huge picture. I'm going to try and post more.

 

[E.intheC]

oh, and the RO system is a bit rusty.

 

[E.intheC]

picture of the top...

 

[E.intheC]

..and the front.

 

[E.intheC]

and the back..

 

[E.intheC]

and finally, the left hand side.

I think this is a record for most consecutive posts (by me at least)

 

[masterswimmer]

Thanks for the pix. Helps an inordinate amount. Lets see if I can clarify things for you.

1 - It looks like the supply water (from the faucet/hose bib/whatever source water you're using) is going into your carbon filter first. Wrong. Should be sediment filter first, then carbon. FYI, I recommend 1 micron sediment if you only have one sediment filter. With a 5 micron you'll allow too much dissolved solids to get through.

2 - The empty canister on the right can be used for the DI resin. Don't just put the resin into the canister. Use a refillable DI Resin cartridge for ease of changing the DI Resin and not having a mess all over the place.

3 - The horizontal canister on top is the RO Membrane, as you stated. The reason it has the three holes on the canister is the following. One hole is the supply line that comes from the carbon filter. The other two holes will dispense permeate water (drinkable) and the third and final hole is the waste water. I'm sure you've heard there is approx. 4:1 waste:permeate water produced in these systems. The third hole in the membrane cartridge is that waste producing line.

Feel free to hit me up with any other Q's you might have along the way. First things first, just switch the carbon block into the middle canister, and move the sediment prefilter into the canister on the left.

BTW, It's a great idea to check your source water pressure. I have seen water pressure from 35 psi (unbelievably low) to as much as almost 100 psi. In order for your RO/DI system to work properly, you should have water pressure of 75-80 psi. If you have much less than that, a booster pump could be in your future.

LMK what else I can do to help a brotha out,
Russ

 

[E.intheC]

Thanks Russ. Actually the first canister that fills up is the middle one. The two lines coming from the RO membrane all go places. The first and third bracket each have a perpetual line that goes no where.

 

[masterswimmer]

Eric, the left canister in your setup appears to connect to the source water. Your pictures (unless I'm seeing things wrong) indicate the following:

source water (ball valve) >> left carbon block >> (yellow tubing) middle sediment prefilter >> (blue tubing) upper RO membrane >> (blue tubing) right (future) DI resin >> (clear/white tubing) water storage bucket

If this isn't accurate LMK,
Russ

 

[E.intheC]

Russ, it looks like you're right. I think I had the incorrect source water line.. it should have been the waste water tube, but I had it connected to the faucet.. D'OH!... I thought the RO membrane was supposed to be first, but it looks like it should be the sediment filter, then carbon block, and finally RO Membrane, (and then DI).

If that's the case, I'll have to switch the carbon block and the sediment filter with each other.

 

[masterswimmer]

Russ, it looks like you're right. I think I had the incorrect source water line.. it should have been the waste water tube, but I had it connected to the faucet.. D'OH!... I thought the RO membrane was supposed to be first, but it looks like it should be the sediment filter, then carbon block, and finally RO Membrane, (and then DI).

If that's the case, I'll have to switch the carbon block and the sediment filter with each other.

Ding Ding Ding, and we haaaaave a winner!!

Sounds perfect. Glad you're 'feeling' it now.

Russ

 

[pweissma]

This document has fantastic schematics.

http://www.aquatec.com/images/IMI-106c.pdf

 

[masterswimmer]

This document has fantastic schematics.

http://www.aquatec.com/images/IMI-106c.pdf

Phil, nice schematics, like you said. The only shortcomings on those drawings are the lack of DI Resin. Otherwise they are really nice.

swimmer