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ShaunW

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I can't believe how much I feed my tank to maintain SPS color. When I had a DSB I would feed twice a week (just to keep algae in check), but I noticed once I went BB my colors were fading with the same feeding schedule. I upped my feeding to everyday and sometimes twice a day with the result, the SPS colors are popping.

Do you BB reefers out there notice the same?
 
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Howell, NJ
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i dont have alot of sps solbby but i do feed the tank 2 times with omega one flakes and every other day they get a piece of nori for a treat.. but the colors on the sps on my tank are great.. the red monti is really nice red, and a couple other ones have great colors..
 

ShaunW

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jackson6745 said:
I sense Bomber with a big smile on his face:pimp:
I'll give him this :)trooper:), he did lay out a good "novel" method to keep aquariums.

I say novel because BB was the thing 20 year ago, but the advent of POWERFUL skimmers, HIGH flow (tunze, penductors) changed the whole BB strategy.

Rich, really 2 hours, is that just the MH or your lights? I am probably also giving too much light at 6 hours.
 

ShaunW

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My point being, I think I could $hit in the tank and all that would happen is that my SPS would grow an extra inch in response, :lol: !
 

ShaunW

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House of Laughter said:
Shaun, just feed your tank man, they need food too!

House
I guess your right Jim, I am just not use to it yet. Still trying to figure out the BB thing, and how my tank responds now.
 

jackson6745

SPS KILLER
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NJ
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Yep only 2hrs MH and 10hrs VHO's...I've actually ben bouncing my MH period between 2-3hrs mostly in denial that I have such a short photoreriod, but I have better results running 2 hrs.
 
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What should I feed the SPS with?
What should I feed the softies with?

If I have too long photo period, would it adversely affect them.
One scenario I worry is that they draw much up too much of a certain mineral/nutrients, whatever, due to long photo sessions and die of starvation afterwards.

Pls. adv.
 

herman

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Weehawken, NJ
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solbby said:
My point being, I think I could $hit in the tank and all that would happen is that my SPS would grow an extra inch in response, :lol: !
Shaun, I did say pee not crap in your tank. Its exactly that reaction with the sps that made me ask the nitrate question and remote DSB.

The current setup will start with a pure BB and I will start adding stuff to it as time goes. First remote DSM followed by refugium followed by phytobreeder etc. I am really curious to see how the tank will react.
 

jackson6745

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NJ
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WingoAgency said:
What should I feed the SPS with?
What should I feed the softies with?

If I have too long photo period, would it adversely affect them.
One scenario I worry is that they draw much up too much of a certain mineral/nutrients, whatever, due to long photo sessions and die of starvation afterwards.

Pls. adv.

Wingo these are great question but off topic. You should start a seperate thread for better answers.
 

ShaunW

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Australia
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jackson6745 said:
Yep only 2hrs MH and 10hrs VHO's...I've actually ben bouncing my MH period between 2-3hrs mostly in denial that I have such a short photoreriod, but I have better results running 2 hrs.
See what is really cool about this fact is that:
1. SPS can get a "sun burn".
2. That your taking more advantage of the dark period of photosynthesis, i.e. when sugars are being made most.
3. Bomber :)trooper:) once suggested that SPS only needs a short photoperiod to acquire the most energy from the light aspect of photosynthesis (photosynthesis actually requires both a light period and a dark period to function) and that any more above a certain point is unnessesary (this actually fits with all the biochemistry of plant metabolism that I have studied). In fact too much light is detrimental. An analogy is, if you were to spend 10 hours in the sun in Miami with out protection, how would you feel?
4. Based on my studies in nitrate and N cycles, SPS actually are able to absorb many nutrients from the water column and succesfully convert them to working energy (growth = color).
 
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ShaunW

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Australia
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What I think a BB tank is doing is limiting C and P (I'm sure this observation has probably been suggested before by :trooper: ) and that the addition of "food" is relieving the limitation.
 

herman

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House of Laughter said:
Herm, I am interested in adding a remote phyto breeder as well - when you get to that point LMK, I want to do that.

House

The only automatic breeder I am aware of at the moment is made by Grotec. Its basically a dosing pump array a large acryllic housing with a light built in. The dosing pump feeds the phytobreeder with "phytofood" and the phyto gets dosed into the tank at whatever interval you set it at.

The drawback is that they are very expensive. With a bit of DIY skill which a lot of you guys have, this thing can be duplicated at a fraction of the cost. Ill pu together a drawing for you and we can start a DIY thread.
 

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