Metal Halide Experts needed............

[rfc]

I am researching on upgrading my PC lighting to metal halide and I have some questions for the experts.

1)What are the pros and cons of HDI vs Mogul.

2) Which type, electronic vs magnetic ballasts ?

3) what wattage do I need over a 29G ? 150W vs 250W

4) what temperture bulb should I get ?

5) Which is better for a canopy, a mogul retrofit or a fixed structure like a aquamedic ?


6) is T5 really that much better than metal halide for a small tank like mine ?



Thanks in advance

Regards

RFC

 

[Reefer420]

Lots of past posts on here about this- do a search for more info...

1) HQI- tend to be more intense than Mogul (SE) bulbs. Can be placed closer to water as they will have a tempered glass sheild in front of bulbs. SE bulbs cannot have glass in front of them as they already have a UV blocking glass surrounding the bulb. Do not place close to water as they do not have tempered glass sheilding.

SE bulbs are an older tech. - so there are more reliable brands, colors out there.

2) Electronic ballasts add more of a 'blue' tint to the bulbs, magnetic more white... other than that I don't know

3) Depends on how deep the tank is, and how high the bulb will be from the water. if you are using HQI or SE, and what color temp you are going with. The 20k bulbs= less intensity, deep blue colors. 10k bulbs = much higher intensity, more white/yellow colors. If you are going w/ 20k SE bulbs and the tank is an extra high tank or something you could go w/ 250 watts, but if you are going w/ 14k HQI bulbs I would stay with 150w. I am using a 250w SE 20k Radium bulb overdriven w/ a 250w PFO HQI ballast- since my 37 tank is 21" deep and I will have the bulb 12" from the water, I didn't want to go w/ a 150 SE 20k bulb since I didn't think that would be enough light.

Also consider heat issues when thinking of where you want to put the bulb.

4) up to you, lots of people like different things here- search around and read up on how things look. My combo I listed above should result in a nice crisp blue w/ some white in it (don't have that tank set up yet). Also depends on if you want to add VHO or PC actinic bulbs to supplement colors.

5) again up to you- canopies look nicer IMO but if you want something easy, an all in one fixture works great too...

6) depends- t-5 = less heat= less likely to need a chiller. other than that either kind of bulb should be fine...

 

[cali_reef]

1. DE vs. SE(Mogul socket), DE pendents are more compact, for a while they were the most effective in reflecting light into a 24x24 area and had more choices in color temp and brand to select from. DE bulbs are easy to break while setting into its socket and when removing, the bulbs are typically more expensive, and the pedants are hard to ventilate heat from. SE, cheapER priced light bulbs and almost as many choices as the DE now, the larger pendents are MORE effective in reflecting light. Good SE pendents are larger and most cheap reflectors are not as effective in reflecting light. The bulbs break often if you have fish that likes to jump, as most reflectors don't have a glass shield.

2. Electronic or Magnetic(sometime called Tar and HQI) ballast. Hard one to help anyone with. First, go with Icecap if you do decide to use electronic, they are the best and Vue\Reeflux is junk. Electronic ballast is smaller, lighter and don't generate as much heat as the Magnetic ballast, it is more efficient in transferring the 115V from your wall to your light bulb. The HQI are the stronger of the magnetic ballast variety, they use more Amperage\Wattage but also drives the light bulbs harder, give out more light. They do generate significant amount heat in a reef system.

3. Wattage, this depends on what you want to keep. keep in mind there are less bulb choices for 150W SE and DE, they are not as popular as the 250's. I think the heat from both will not different much if you ventilate the pendent and ballast correctly.

4. What color cloth you like? Don't ask people what you should like, you need to see different light bulb and ballast combinations to figure that out.

5. Pendents typically are more effective in getting most light into a tank, cheap mogul "wing" style reflectors are just, cheap.. Most pendents will also fit in a properly built canopy.

6. T5 vs MH.. All depends again on what you want to keep and what is your preferred "look".. T5 lit tanks typically don't look as nice as a MH lit tank.

The best resource in MH reef lighting is all in one place, Dr. Sanjay Joshi's website. http://www.reeflightinginfo.arvixe.com/ Spend a few hours there and you should know everything you would want to know about MH.

 

[meschaefer]

There are more bulb choices with a 175w MH bulb, then with the 150w.

If you decide to go with an electronic ballast, look at blueline ballasts in addition to icecap.

 

[DonCisco]

As for which is best, what I can tell you is that if you choose an MH fixture, the color of the bulb really depends on your preference, the higher the temperature (K value) the bluer the tint. This affects the CRI (Color Rendering Index) where typically 6500K to 7000K is closer to sunlight, and 20000K is a more bluish tint. Note of caution if you go with low K temperature you will see TONS of growth, both coral and algae. With a higher color temperature you will be able to radiate the kind of light needed for some lower dwelling corals, but everything will have a bluish tint to it. Again, it is your preference. As far as ballasts go, opt for an electronic ballast, after the signing of the EPACT act of 2005 all manufacturers of ballasts are converting to all electronic ballasts (with the exception of specialty ones). But the electronic ballast will give you more even performance, and it will not heat as much. Also it will save you some money in electricity bills (electronic ballasts are about 15 to 20% more efficient than magnetic ones)

 

[aaron]

Over the years it seems most people that have discussed colour temp. on this site have ended up going with a 14K. which is a compromise between a 20K which gives better colour (appearance) but is a little dull, and a 10k which gives a brighter/sunny day look but tends to be a little too yellow. Also there is significant fluctuation in colour temp. between brands of bulbs.
I would suggest getting out there and seeing as many setups as you can to decide what look you like best for your tank.
I have run 175W 10k aqualine bulbs for the past three years, I kind of wish they were a little less yellow, but i make up for it with actinic suppliment.