Lighting suggestions

[Antf]

I need lighting suggestions for my 125 gallon (72" long and about 24" high. I currently have a current LED Loop lighting system on the tank. Swapping out the metal return pump I have for an Ecotech M1. I haven't been able to get coral to stay alive (Tank has been up and running at least 9 months. If its not the pump, it has to be the lighting.

Note: fish and shrimp are fine. GSP has been alive (opening and closing) for over a month, but hasn't grown or expanded.

test results: (from an LFS)

PH: 8.2
Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: 20
Salinity: 1.025

 

[Spartanwarrior]

phosphates? the big 3 alk/cal/mag? it could definitely be these things too. how did you seed the tank's biological filter originally? Nitrates are high for SPS if that's what you are tryin to grow.

I agree if you can't grow GSP there is definitely something wrong. I may suggest buying those test kits for the big 3 and take the closest look at the ALK, at various times of the day. If you are seeing swings (for example 7.0-6.5-7.5-6.8, etc) there is your culprit.

Maybe since its been 9 months, go splurge for a $40 ATI ICP test. You send away and they give you a nice layout of the elements in your tank. I've used it once and find it very quick and easy compared to many things I've heard over Triton tests. Perhaps the metal return pump (never heard of such a thing) could've been leaching bad elements into the tank?

Hows the flow in the tank? Any algae spikes?

Get these things squared away and if they're good, then you can maybe start looking for lighting issues. And when at that point, look to rent a PAR meter and measure the lighting in various spots in your tank. I've been having great success with T5/LED combo lighting.

 

[Reef Trends]

I would recommend either Hydra 26HD's or Radion XR15 Pro's. This way you can start with a couple and add more as you need or budget allows then as suggested add T5's later on if you still want.

 

[reefiness]

yeah that list from the LFS definitely isnt complete. I would look into other tests as well if you have the kits, otherwise you may want to invest in them. Water quality is definitely the most important aspect of this hobby, and many of us have learned the hard way not to cheap out on water quality.

I totally agree with what spartan said, there is a lot of look into that can be going wrong. While I wouldnt rule out the crappy lights as an issue, i dont think they would be an issue with GSP which I think you may be able to grow with candle light. But the current lights really arent the best as far as par out put for many of the moderate to high light demanding corals.

 

[Antf]

phosphates? the big 3 alk/cal/mag? it could definitely be these things too. how did you seed the tank's biological filter originally? Nitrates are high for SPS if that's what you are tryin to grow.

I agree if you can't grow GSP there is definitely something wrong. I may suggest buying those test kits for the big 3 and take the closest look at the ALK, at various times of the day. If you are seeing swings (for example 7.0-6.5-7.5-6.8, etc) there is your culprit.

Maybe since its been 9 months, go splurge for a $40 ATI ICP test. You send away and they give you a nice layout of the elements in your tank. I've used it once and find it very quick and easy compared to many things I've heard over Triton tests. Perhaps the metal return pump (never heard of such a thing) could've been leaching bad elements into the tank?

Hows the flow in the tank? Any algae spikes?

Get these things squared away and if they're good, then you can maybe start looking for lighting issues. And when at that point, look to rent a PAR meter and measure the lighting in various spots in your tank. I've been having great success with T5/LED combo lighting.

Thank You. After I change the pump, The mail away test will be next. My pump came with the sump that i purchased from Craigslist. It appears that the pump was not used in the sump (rather piped to the return). I have it submersed in my sump chamber. I sealed the exit valve on the sump.

I saw success with keeping inverts after I started using RODI and changed my plumbing (had a metal ball valve. I also dd an 80 percent water change.

Im slowly changing things (based on the budget). So far Ive lost Xenia (3 times), Zoas, GSP, a torch and others. So Ill see how it goes. I know Xenia can be hit or miss, but I like the movement in the tank.

 

[Antf]

I would recommend either Hydra 26HD's or Radion XR15 Pro's. This way you can start with a couple and add more as you need or budget allows then as suggested add T5's later on if you still want.

Thanks. What are some of the recommended T5s? I put that into the search engine on Amazon and I get a ton of varieties. I need something that is both good and affordable. (affordable is under $500, if that is even possible).

 

[reefiness]

Thanks. What are some of the recommended T5s? I put that into the search engine on Amazon and I get a ton of varieties. I need something that is both good and affordable. (affordable is under $500, if that is even possible).

T5s usually you can just get a retro kit to add the bulbs in, otherwise there is that new unit which is meant to accept LED modules and has t5 bulbs on either side of it.
Lighting a 6 ft tank under $500 is close to impossible in LED world unless you go with some real crap like mars aqua, which IMO isnt worth the little bit of money at all.

 

[Spartanwarrior]

anything metal around a saltwater environment is risky. I had a stainless steel hose clamp around a piece of vinyl tubing about 8" above the water line in my old build and it still rusted. who knows what that thing put into my tank. And don't get me started on stainless steel cabinet hardware...the worst.

always check to see what type of return pump you are using ie submersible vs exterior...makes a huge difference. as long as your sump in right underneath the tank, stick with submersible pumps over non..relatively cheaper.

yea, if you cant keep gsp or xenia alive, try a Kenya tree. if that dies, than you KNOW you have an issue with water quality. RODI is a great first step. do a little research and make sure you are using it to its fullest potential. I upgraded mine and added a few more containers for my crappy LI water. there is a lot of info on RODI out there and all of it good.

it really is all about patience and budget. upgrade as you can. change 1 thing at a time so you can diagnose the issue and prevent it from happening again. if you change 3,4,10 things at a time, and it works...you will never know the true culprit.


i really wish you the best of luck. ive been in your boat before. don't give up too quickly because when it does work out, this is such an amazing hobby.

 

[editour2]

Thanks. What are some of the recommended T5s? I put that into the search engine on Amazon and I get a ton of varieties. I need something that is both good and affordable. (affordable is under $500, if that is even possible).

I have a hybrid lighting system on my 215 gal tank. The tank is 72" long by 24" front to back by 28" top to bottom. I use 2 x reefbreeders photon 32 V2+ LED fixtures in combination with two retrofit kits each being 2 x 80 watt T5's. I place 1 kit (2 bulbs) in front of the LED fixtures and 1 kit behind, (in other words the LED fixtures are sandwiched in between the T5's). The only T5 bulbs I use are 2 x ATI Coral Plus and 2 x ATI Blue Plus.


The 2 x Reefbreeders Photon 32 V2+ will cost around $1100, the two retrofit kits around $260 and the T5 bulbs around $100. Total light system, (without the light rack), is $1,460. You can start with just the T5's for $360, (2 retro fit kits w/4 x80 watt bulbs....total of 320 watts), and then add the LED's when you have more funds.


https://www.marinedepot.com/LET_Lig...MI_LGmtPDH3QIVh1mGCh1xNgOsEAQYASABEgJTr_D_BwE