ManhattanReefs Project 1: Doc's 90 Gallon Tank

[Doc]

Hello everyone,
I met quite a few of you at the frag swap and really enjoyed myself. That said, i got into a discusion of switching from PC to MH for lighting so that i could keep some SPS. Once that was considered, I would need a hood for the glare. If I'm going to get a hood, then a stand would be nice as well. (I currently have the metal one from Petland.) If I change the stand, might as well change the tank from a regular fish tank to Reef-ready tank with built in overflows. So if I'm getting a new tank, might as well upgrade the size. I only have a 4 foot wall space for the tank and I live on the second floor with the tank running parrallel to the floor beams, ie only on 1, not perpendicular so I could spread the weight over two. So I think the 90 gallon is the best way to go. OK so I'm a bit nuts to my wife, but I'm sure this makes perfect sense to all of you. Right? I hope!!

Anyway, i'd like to upgrade my whole system, but do it right this time from the start and plan it right, not just add random pieces gradually. I have some restraints and would like to use as much of the equipment that I have now as possible. (Make my wife (and me) feel better about spending all that money on pieces that i'M "Not going to use anymore.") Some of the things I would like to to have it run as automaticaaly as possible. My schedule is busy and unpredictable and so if I did not have to dose stuff or if it ran on timers that would be great. Also the power in my apt is a little wierd. I can't run my fishtank, oven, microwave and toaster oven all at the same time. I would like for the stand to be a foot so taller than the usual stand becuase I'm a tall guy and don't like bending down that much. Also I would really like it if all the equipment fit into the stand. I don't have much space otherwise and it would look ridiculous to have it there. Otherwise, I'd just like it to look good. I appriaciate all the help in advance thanks.

My tank as it is now in a 55 gallon tank with overflow to a Lifereef sump LF1-125 and protein skimmer. The sump has a $10 fan over it and a flood lamp with a 50/50 pc bulb over it. My sump has argonite sand and chaeto macroalgea in the first stage. A velocity t4 is my return pump that also sends water to my protein skimmer. The return is just 1.5" tubing and some PVC tubing. (my first attempt at plumbing.) I also have a fluval 403 that used to be my first filter that I run for flow and biological filtration. I have PC lighting currently 48" over my tank that I run 2 whites and 2 50/50s. I have an automatic feeder that feeds them once every 12 hours and is battery operated. I have a heater in the sump and a new one a just bought because I want to change it out. The whole thing is controlled by an aquatronica controller. I have an aquasafe ro/di system that i use to lug water from my sink to my tank.

Thanks again Doc

 

[FRY]

doc your off to a good start by planing everything from the beggening to end you will get very excellent planing here and help

 

[jawwad2004]

Hey doc, come by and check out my 90. I was able to fit a lot of things under my tank.
Also if you're going with sps and would like to avoid dosing, think about getting a calcium reactor.

 

[masterswimmer]

Hey Doc, nice meeting you yesterday too.

I also like tall stands. Allows you to fit more underneath and easier on the viewing. I built my tank into the wall. The bottom of my tank is 45" off the floor.

This is not meant as anything but helpful.......that said, I think your intention to upgrade is a great thing. Having both those Hippo and Naso Tangs in a 55 is not optimal.

I also run a Lifereef sump & skimmer SVS2-24. I think you're getting off on the right foot here. This is their smallest skimmer, so yours is at least this size and it's rated for 250 gallons. I love its efficiency and ease of use (plug and play).

Good luck,
Russ

 

[Doc]

do you think I'm OK with the Aquatronica controller? Someone at the frag swap said it would not be good to monitor my levels. I like the fact that I can plug as many power strips as I need into one screen/controller. I also like the easy to use controller.

So far I'm going for a custom stand with hood and a reef ready tank. What kind of lighting should I get? Also what and how should the bottom/sump extras be arranged/there? I like the idea of a calcium reactor, it if will fit also I have no clue how it works so Could someone please fill me in?

Thanks Doc

 

[simike]

. I only have a 4 foot wall space for the tank and I live on the second floor with the tank running parrallel to the floor beams, ie only on 1, not perpendicular so I could spread the weight over two. So I think the 90 gallon is the best way to go.

hey just a general question about weight, a 90 gal all set up has to be close to 1000 lbs right , isnt that too much for one joist to support, has anyone ever heard of anyone having a poblem with weight? is it a real concern?? shouldnt you put the tank across beams not along it? Im new to this so...

 

[jhale]

Doc it was good to see you again at the swap.
The upgrade sounds great, my only concern is the electrical constraints you mentioned. When I upgraded from my 55 to my 120 I ran two new 20amp lines to the tank location. I would highly suggest you look into doing this before choosing any new equipment or lighting. Perhaps Fry can help you out with that.
As for the automation top off water is critical so think about running a line from the RO/DI into a reservoir or sump itself. I would concentrate on the building blocks of a good tank first, then get into the millions of choices for equipment. your welcome to call me with any questions.

-J

 

[masterswimmer]

I agree wholeheartedly with JH. My tiny 75 with 15 sump and 15 fuge has four, count'em, four dedicated 20 amp circuits. Now I know this is sooooo much overkill, but it reinforces the need to accomodate your electrical load.

A single joist holding a fully setup 90 is not optimal either. The joist is highly unlikely to sheer, but you could very easily experience bounce and maybe some wave effects in the water as kids run by or even adults walk by it. If you can't run perpendicular to the joists, you should at least try to situate the tank as close to an exterior wall as possible. All exterior walls are bearing walls and should give you a smidge more comfort.

I'd be more than happy to talk to you more about it doc. I've built many homes as a general contractor and might be able to shed some light on it.

Russ