lnevo

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As far as media reactors go, that one i believe is brand new, but it looks nice from the specs. As far as gfo goes you want to go slowly. Start with 1/2 or less of recommended dosage and increase slowly.
 

TommyP

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Thanks. I do have a carton of Activated carbon under my stand I used in the tray on my hob filter when I first set up the tank as a FOWLR. What can I use to put the activated carbon inside? Where in the sump should I put it? Return chamber or overflow section? Do I need to rinse the activated carbon first before I put it in whatever I need to put it in? Sorry for all the questions. I'm a water change wipe down the walls only kinda guy.
 

TommyP

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So one of the corals I got from a member here it's a green birdsnest I just came home from work and it's completely bleached. It was middle of the tank under my LEDs. They are on 40% blue 40% white. When corals bleach does it mean it's getting too much light or not enough? What should I put my lights to? They are 2 units hung above my 55g. 120W each. Thanks.
 

TommyP

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The overflow was running slower than normal due to an air bubble, so it caused my ato to fill my sump more than normal I believe this led to that. I am doing a water change Friday so I will bring it up slowly. As per my other parameters, everything looks cool?
 

Dk638

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Salinity is really important, if it were me I don't think I'd wait till Friday. I'd start with 5 gallon water changes right away if your serious about your corals. Also API test kits do not have a low range and are not too accurate. Calcium I would think would come up with the salinity. I use Red Sea for Po4 and no3 and for po4 I still don't trust it, I really need to buy a Hanna phos checker. I wouldn't take the salinity so lightly though. It could definitely be the problem.
 

TommyP

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Salinity: 1.025
PO4 : using the red sea phosphate pro test kit it's inbetween 0.08 and 0.16 hard to tell but what was that off set with this test kit again?
mg: 1040ppm
KH: .70 used so it would be 9.8 DKH
calcium : 500ppm
pH: 8.0
ammonia: 0ppm
nitrite: 0ppm
nitrate: 20 ppm

Just did a water change on Wednesday night.
 

DrAsTiC

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Rockland County
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Mg seems a bit low. 1300-1350 is desired
calcium is just about at the max level, some might argue that it is high.I like mine at 450-480
you will want to lower your nitrates to 0. 20 is to high if you have sps in your tank.
 

TommyP

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Mg seems a bit low. 1300-1350 is desired
calcium is just about at the max level, some might argue that it is high.I like mine at 450-480
you will want to lower your nitrates to 0. 20 is to high if you have sps in your tank.

Thanks for the advice. I'll try to get the levels at the desired point.

I am also interested in a controller soon. Going to start saving for that.

I have timers already for my LED lights, they are dimmable already.
I am interested in monitoring Salinity, pH & Temp.
I would love e-mail/text messages.
I already have an ATO set up from autotopoff.com
If I end up plugging the lights and wp25 powerhead and my ato unit into the controller's outlets, would it protect from power surges?


Any ideas? Thanks.
 

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