400w DE Metal Halide
- Thread starter Mikef1
- Start date
I was looking into doing a 400w 20k pfo on my system but opted for somthing else instead. Overall, though, the reviews and the ppl I've chatted with seem to be happy with PFO bulbs.
I ended up just adding 175w of actinic VHO to my 400w DE Hamilton Reefstar 14k system. Looks great.
b
I ended up just adding 175w of actinic VHO to my 400w DE Hamilton Reefstar 14k system. Looks great.
b
Posted: Mon Feb 19, 2007 3:00 pm Post subject:
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Written in my other post by another member. Just wondering if anyone else has had this experience or knows anything about it. Thanks
No, stay away from 400wattDE bulbs at all costs. They are a scam. 250wattDE and 150wattDE bulbs are the accepted format for HQI bulbs, and the SE versions (175 and 250) are USUALLY the lower quality probe-start (there are some 250wattSE HQI bulbs like the Radium). So a few companies decided that if they packaged cheap US probe-start bulbs in a DE package, people would buy them because they looked like HQI bulbs of lower wattages. It didnt take long for the truth to come out though. The true HQI 400s are SE, because the international standard for HQI 400s is still in the Mogul form. The list is short, but sweet for 400wattHQI...
Ushio/BLV nepturion (non-CWA models) 10,000K, 14,000K, 20,000K, the Aquaconnect 14,000K, Aqualine 10,000K, and the full line of Giesemann 400s are pulse-start/HQI 400s.
The 400wattDE bulbs are a sham. Many die within 6-9 months due to poor QC... Happy Reefing already went under. PFO and IC are the only mfg's left, and their bulbs are nothing more than a socket swap with the probe-start, low-pressure US 400watt bulbs. They run them on e-ballasts because on a true HQI ballast these bulbs would die very quickly.
_________________
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Written in my other post by another member. Just wondering if anyone else has had this experience or knows anything about it. Thanks
No, stay away from 400wattDE bulbs at all costs. They are a scam. 250wattDE and 150wattDE bulbs are the accepted format for HQI bulbs, and the SE versions (175 and 250) are USUALLY the lower quality probe-start (there are some 250wattSE HQI bulbs like the Radium). So a few companies decided that if they packaged cheap US probe-start bulbs in a DE package, people would buy them because they looked like HQI bulbs of lower wattages. It didnt take long for the truth to come out though. The true HQI 400s are SE, because the international standard for HQI 400s is still in the Mogul form. The list is short, but sweet for 400wattHQI...
Ushio/BLV nepturion (non-CWA models) 10,000K, 14,000K, 20,000K, the Aquaconnect 14,000K, Aqualine 10,000K, and the full line of Giesemann 400s are pulse-start/HQI 400s.
The 400wattDE bulbs are a sham. Many die within 6-9 months due to poor QC... Happy Reefing already went under. PFO and IC are the only mfg's left, and their bulbs are nothing more than a socket swap with the probe-start, low-pressure US 400watt bulbs. They run them on e-ballasts because on a true HQI ballast these bulbs would die very quickly.
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I am no lighting expert, but IIRC correctly, according to Sanjay there's actually no true 400 HQI ballasts/lamps. The intended ballasts for double-ended lamps in the lower wattages are as follows: 250 watt HQI = ANSI M80, 150 watt HQI = ANSI M81, 70 watt HQI = ANSI M85
When it comes to the 400 watt ballasts, however, there's no ANSI M8X equivalent. AFAIK the ballasts being sold as HQI by Sunlight, PFO, etc. are actually 430 watt Son Agros.
As for the European 400 watt SE lamps, going from memory, I believe Sanjay has stated that there's actually no US ballast of the correct spec for these lamps. Apparently the 400 watt pulse start (ANSI M135) comes closest, but underdrive the lamps. The so called 400 watt HQI (aka 430 watt Son Agros) will run these lamps but overdrive them (and significantly reduce lamp life).
When it comes to the 400 watt ballasts, however, there's no ANSI M8X equivalent. AFAIK the ballasts being sold as HQI by Sunlight, PFO, etc. are actually 430 watt Son Agros.
As for the European 400 watt SE lamps, going from memory, I believe Sanjay has stated that there's actually no US ballast of the correct spec for these lamps. Apparently the 400 watt pulse start (ANSI M135) comes closest, but underdrive the lamps. The so called 400 watt HQI (aka 430 watt Son Agros) will run these lamps but overdrive them (and significantly reduce lamp life).
interesting thread that i am trying to understand.
now we all know that some bulbs are better then others in
producing light at the right wavelengths we desire, have a longer
life at those wavelengths, and better quality control for fewer bad
experiences by reef keepers. i am sure we all agree.
allow me to use this lighting system by Hamilton as an example:
400 WATT 14K HQI REEFSTAR - LOW PROFILE HQI METAL HALIDE SYSTEM
I am at work, but I will gladly grab the specs from the ballast when i get
home.
Is this an example of a setup with a ballast that will overdrive the lamp?
If so, I am now aware that the bulb will have a shorter life, but do not
make it sound like the light coming from it is somehow bad...
which is the impression, overall, i am getting from this thread about
400 watt DE HQI bulbs.
i am new to lighting.. so forgive me.. if no one meant to give that impression.
maybe someone can help me pick apart the lighting system i have
in order for me to better understand it.
do i have a 430 watt ballast?
in the IT world sometimes software out paces standards.. standards
sometimes get written after the fact. is this a case?
when i get home i will reread this thread and try to figure out what
i have for lighting... because if i had known i was buying a 430 watt
ballast, i would not have made the purchase!
now we all know that some bulbs are better then others in
producing light at the right wavelengths we desire, have a longer
life at those wavelengths, and better quality control for fewer bad
experiences by reef keepers. i am sure we all agree.
allow me to use this lighting system by Hamilton as an example:
400 WATT 14K HQI REEFSTAR - LOW PROFILE HQI METAL HALIDE SYSTEM
I am at work, but I will gladly grab the specs from the ballast when i get
home.
Is this an example of a setup with a ballast that will overdrive the lamp?
If so, I am now aware that the bulb will have a shorter life, but do not
make it sound like the light coming from it is somehow bad...
which is the impression, overall, i am getting from this thread about
400 watt DE HQI bulbs.
i am new to lighting.. so forgive me.. if no one meant to give that impression.
maybe someone can help me pick apart the lighting system i have
in order for me to better understand it.
do i have a 430 watt ballast?
in the IT world sometimes software out paces standards.. standards
sometimes get written after the fact. is this a case?
when i get home i will reread this thread and try to figure out what
i have for lighting... because if i had known i was buying a 430 watt
ballast, i would not have made the purchase!
ok, the ballast that came with my kit is ANSI M135.
it is a pulse start model.
so this will slightly underdrive the unknown 400 watt HQI DE bulb
i have. i knew from the get go this bulb would be low end but planned
on using it for 6-9 months anway. I do like the look tho.
after learning all this new information which is tough to come by
as a newer reef keeper with MH.. should i be disappointed in my
purchase?
i feel like everything is working out fine.
it is a pulse start model.
so this will slightly underdrive the unknown 400 watt HQI DE bulb
i have. i knew from the get go this bulb would be low end but planned
on using it for 6-9 months anway. I do like the look tho.
after learning all this new information which is tough to come by
as a newer reef keeper with MH.. should i be disappointed in my
purchase?
i feel like everything is working out fine.
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