AGA tank w/ false back -- suggestions & plumbing help?!

[epicfish]

This is my plan:

1. AGA 10 gallon
2. False back with 3 compartments:
a. Chaeto/LR rubble
b. Filter floss, sponges, media (if required)
c. Maxi-Jet 900 (or Maxi-Jet 1200) Pump
3. Finnex 3x36w fixture with: 1x 10,000K, 1x 50/50, 1x 420nm/460nm bulbs
4. 10-15 pounds of live rock
5. 10 pounds of live sand
6. Zoos, palys, softies

Here's the design for the false back. The dimesions of a 10 gallon AGA are: 20"x10"x12" (LWH). I've actually moved the return closer to the surface for more movement at the top.

Click the pictures for larger pictures.

Front of the tank:


Back of the tank:


False back:




Are there any good ways to have the return plumbed through the false wall?

(Click on the images to get linked to the page description.)
Here are my options:
1) Tubing -> single threaded bulkhead + threaded bulkhead screen
I can use this bulkhead:
Along with this bulkhead screen:



2) Tubing -> slip bulkhead thread screen
Get some tubing to attach the pump to this piece, which is simply pushed through the hole in the acrylic. It's a slip-on piece:



3) Tubing -> bulkhead -> 1/2" loc-line connector -> flare nozzle
Use a bulkhead:
And then attach a threaded 1/2" loc-line connector:
and then attach a loc-line flare nozzle:



4) Tubing -> 1/2 PVC -> 1/2" loc-line connector -> flare nozzle
Use a 1/2" PVC to 1/2" FNPT, I can silicone the piece to the acrylic:
And then attach the threaded 1/2" loc-line connector:
And use the flare nozzle:

I guess the bulkhead idea would give a tighter fit since it's screwed into the acrylic from either side.


What does everyone think of my plan so far?...any suggestions on the false back idea as well as any plumbing help?

TIA!

 

[Len]

Hi. I'd recommend using a bulkhead and loc-line (option #3). While it's not important for you to have a water-tight seal in this design, it's still nicer to have and is a more elegant solution. Bulkheads will allow for a more secure plumbing.

For the output, use loc-line with flared nozzles. The strainers are meant for intakes and not outputs. It will work for outputs, but the flow pattern will be very odd (water jetting in all directions, including up), and I suspect there will be a lot of back-pressure on the pump as well.

Plus, bulkhead+loc-line can be purchased in all black. It looks better

 

[bleedingthought]

Epicfish, :welcome:

I agree with Len, go with option #3. Also, add some more locline "notches" between the nozzle and the threaded connector so you can have more ways to position it (bigger range of motion).

Why the different heights on the overflow teeth?

And which bulb are you leaving over the back for the fuge?

Definitely post pictures when you start putting it together!

 

[epicfish]

Not sure for the reason of the differing notches. I thought I'd be creative. =) I could switch them to even notches if you think it'd be more efficient.

As far as the bulb, I have three. So I figure from the front back: 420/460, 50/50, daylight since the daylight bulb will be "over" the fuge.

Loc-line is expensive. LOL. The loc-line connections and bulkheads will cost me more than the fabrication for the entire acrylic piece itself! The acrylic will be laser cut for a better fit and overall better esthetics.

 

[bleedingthought]

Where are you getting the locline from? Try modularhose.com or savko.com where they go cheaper. How much are you paying for that acrylic piece, anyways?

I don't think the height of the teeth will make a difference, I was just wondering.

I'd have the 420/460 in the middle to even things out a bit more.