anyone using tank transfer method?

[BYU]

I ve used prazipro and hyposaline in qt for a while with success but its such a pita. Ive also used prazi and cupramine recently but lost some fish even though i test copper often.
I was reading about tank transfer but i had some questions

1. I was under the impression that sometimes ich can stay dormant and then come out when the fish is stress so cant the tt method miss some ich?
2 what is the smallest tanks you guys use successfully? I saw some guys using 1-2 gallon containers on youtube but not sure if fish would be ok in 2 gallons of water with heater and sponge filter for 2-3 days .
would 5 gallon tanks be okay for tangs and other fish ?
3 do you guys use seeded sponges for filter or do you think you dont need to have a cycle since its only 3 days

I have 20 gallon qt tank but i could think changing 20 gallons of water every 2-3 days would be tough

any input would be appreciated
thanks

 

[Kworker]

1) TTM is the better of the three main treatments for Ich IMO. However it's done incorrectly when you use the same equipment for both tanks. You really need two sets of equipment and sanitize the equipment immediately after the transfer is done and let it air dry for 48 hours. You also have issue with the possibly of ich going to other tanks within 12 feet of the QT. TTM also has the (very slight) possibly where a cyst will rupture causing the planned transfer schedule to be unsuccessful.

2) I've used 20 gallon tanks as my smallest size, I usually did it with multiple fish (12 anthias being the most) or larger fish (5" hippo and two 4" triggers). I've also used 55 gallon in tandem with a 40b.

3) Never bothered with seeded filters, like you said within #2. The fish are in the tank for such a short period its not really necessary. Just keep an eye on things.


I would make sure you sanitize the previous tank IMMEDIATELY and let it dry so you can set up the tank the fish is going and make sure everything matches. Remember fish can go down a bit in salinity but harder for them to go up. pH can kill you (really the fish) if you set up the tank too soon in the transfer. I've accidentally fried fish because I had mismatched pH levels because I tried cutting corners and setting the tank up fairly quick.


Honestly, keep in mind that ich has a part of its life cycle where it could be on rock, sand and frag plugs. I was VERY strict with my QT regiment for ich.. I had a room dedicated for it. After a bit after one year of fallow ich entered my system shortly after adding a larger order of new corals.

I definitely recommend PraziPro. I've used it for flukes and it works great.

 

[theMeat]

It lays dormant for a couple of weeks up to a couple of months depending on type of strain and water temp. Then it hatches and seeks a host. While looking for a host is the only time we have a shot of killing it and breaking the life cycle, and they don't all hatch at the same time so 8-to 10 weeks of treatment is needed. Either the tank has ich or it doesn't. It doesn't just wake up.
The ttm is the biggest pita, stressful to fish and not 100% imo, and ime. Hypo works well and is easy on fish but some strains are resistant to it, so not 100% in all cases. Copper is the easiest and most effective, and Cupramine is the best copper option. Not all fish, like flame angels and others, can tolerate copper levels hi enough to be effective against ich and will die.

 

[Aquadicted]

1) TTM is the better of the three main treatments for Ich IMO. However it's done incorrectly when you use the same equipment for both tanks. You really need two sets of equipment and sanitize the equipment immediately after the transfer is done and let it air dry for 48 hours. You also have issue with the possibly of ich going to other tanks within 12 feet of the QT. TTM also has the (very slight) possibly where a cyst will rupture causing the planned transfer schedule to be unsuccessful.

2) I've used 20 gallon tanks as my smallest size, I usually did it with multiple fish (12 anthias being the most) or larger fish (5" hippo and two 4" triggers). I've also used 55 gallon in tandem with a 40b.

3) Never bothered with seeded filters, like you said within #2. The fish are in the tank for such a short period its not really necessary. Just keep an eye on things.


I would make sure you sanitize the previous tank IMMEDIATELY and let it dry so you can set up the tank the fish is going and make sure everything matches. Remember fish can go down a bit in salinity but harder for them to go up. pH can kill you (really the fish) if you set up the tank too soon in the transfer. I've accidentally fried fish because I had mismatched pH levels because I tried cutting corners and setting the tank up fairly quick.


Honestly, keep in mind that ich has a part of its life cycle where it could be on rock, sand and frag plugs. I was VERY strict with my QT regiment for ich.. I had a room dedicated for it. After a bit after one year of fallow ich entered my system shortly after adding a larger order of new corals.

I definitely recommend PraziPro. I've used it for flukes and it works great.

I agree with a lot of points made here. I think these are solid tips. If I had to rank the treatments it's TTM>HYPOSALINITY>COPPER. I'm using copper because it's easier on my end since I have a lot of moving fish. If I had the time or the space I would certainly go with other methods. And I actually do sometimes for special fish