Cyano WTF!!!

[sun1914]

Starting to get cyano on a few pieces of live rock so I just did something I haven't done in a long long long time.....I tested my water.

API Test Kit

PO3/4 = 0.00 (sure there's something there, just to low to pick up)

NO3 = between 5-10 ppm

Didn't test for anything else since those are the 2 main causes of cyanobacteria as per Google...and if it's on Google it has to be true :p

Looking to upgrade my power heads and hopefully the increased flow will help out before it gets out of hand.

Besides that...what has worked for you guys??

 

[evoIX_Reefer]

How long has your tank been setup? API kits are worthless in regards to phosphates. Ok for no3 etc.

What are you running to remove phosphates? If nothing then it's probably high enough to cause cyano.

HAve a fellow renegade with Hanna phos tester or phos ulr checker. Not the best but 10x better than the api test. Sorry not scheduled for NYC this week. Otherwise, I would swing by.

You can go several ways to get rid of it for temporary until you find the cause and take preventative steps. Chemiclean, suck it out and 3 day lights out, etc.

Using ro/di? Last filter change?

If you have cyano, you know something is off. Luckily not the end of the world and can get it taken care of. Luckily it's not a std!!

 

[sun1914]

Tank has been running since about April of this year.

Using ro/do, not sure exactly when the filter was changed but Kingator who gave me the ro/di said it was new...that was in April or May of this year. The meter reads its still pushing out 0.00 ppm.
I'm also running Chemipure elite 2bags and 1 small mesh bag of Purigen. I know it's about time to swap out one of my Chemipure bags already. I'll also swap out my Purigen and increase the amount in bag.
I'm also running biopellets.

I know I definitely have to increase my flow which I hope to be able to do this week.
Thanks for the reply evo.

 

[Nandez13]

Just got done with dealing with cyano after 4 weeks or so. It's such a pain, it seems like nothing you do helps. Keep manually removing as much as you can, lower light duration and increase water change volume or frequency. I agree with the previous post that API kits for phosphate are useless

 

[vio]

I suspect to be age of your tank ( young ) + Bio Pellets, increase water flow . will go a way. How much BP u run ?

 

[sun1914]

I run a bit less than half the reactor. Maybe even 1/3.

 

[evoIX_Reefer]

I would go with vio as it is a young tank but there are obvious needs like changing out the media that is probably exhausted and the biopellets take time to work so depending how long it has been setup you may be at a crossroad where your biopellets aren't mature enough for removing no3/po4 and media is done. I'll be passing through to flushing tomorrow if your around the area when I pass by I can bring my Hanna checker. It'll have to be quick though since I have several clients to go to.

 

[Dan_P]

Ten years of Reef Central cyano posts are pretty much from aquarists with setups under a year, so, this might be a "normal" occurrence like acne on teenagers. We don't like it, their are some things we can do to minimize the problem, and generally, our tanks grow out of it.


All the advice you will receive could be beneficial, or harmless, or useless (the problem might just go away on its own). The use of antibiotics may not be prudent at this time or maybe ever.


Phosphates seem to be everyone's favorite explanation for cyanobacteria blooms, followed by nitrates, flow (not enough) and lighting (too red, too much, too little). Cyanobacteria can also make use of dissolved organic compounds that contain phosphate and nitrate and this might explain why zero phosphates in the water does not protect you from cyanobacteria blooms.


Lowering phosphates is generally a good idea. You might be interested in lowering nitrates at this time. Lowering dissolved organic waste with GAC is a good idea any time as is removing detritus from the aquarium and sump. But to get quicker results, you might like to try the newest eradication methodology which involves shutting off the lights for three days.


You can physically remove cyanobacteria with a turkey baster or python siphon to improve the appearance of the tank. It might even shorten the bloom. Using a turkey baster or powerhead to blow the cyanobacteria mats from the rocks or substrate can spread the infection because the mats have a tendency to very quickly stick where they land and continue to grow.


Unless you have really neglected aquarium maintenance, I wouldn't start feeling very guilty right now!


Good luck!

 

[sun1914]

Thanks to all. It is very minimal at this point. Just a few spots with fuzz not mat like areas yet....and hopefully it won't reach that stage.

Evo, not sure what time you plan on being around but if it's after 5pm , I'm game. If not thanks away for offering.

 

[evoIX_Reefer]

Sorry, I'll be heading to flushing by 10 and have to be back in Jersey by 130-2. Maybe take a 15min break and bring at least 30ml of your tank water. It requires 10ml but I normally put water in separate vials and 1 added with reagent.

Lmk.

 

[evoIX_Reefer]

I do agree with Dan that i have only dealt with cyano during early stages but never just let it sit around and take care of itself. Not many problems solve itself in this hobby without high risk of going out of control instead.

Add flow as you were going to and change out your media.