jkidd155

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tank has been running for a couple of months have a couple of frags 10 fish here are my parameters
alk 8.6
cal 500
mag 1470
salinity 1.026
nitrates between 2 n 5
phosphates are 0
like i mentioned before tank is fairly new how do i remove the dinos or red cyano its on the sandbed and on the rocks
 

jkidd155

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Here are some pics I have a sea urchin but doesn’t seem to be doing much
 

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Dino X for dinoflagellates, its simply a weak algaecide, worked for me when comboed with lights out for a week. You can try red slime remover for the cyano I believe that's simply antibiotics.. If you use just one method of control, the other will bloom, so you'll need to use both. Once you killed off 99% of both, you'll need something else to soak up the nutrients/waste, otherwise they are still there. A giant water change? You'll also need to repopulate the ecosystem with bacterial cultures, from someone else's tank. Perhaps a giant ball of macro algae, or the squeeze of someones clogged sponge. Cyano is easier to control than dino, I feel the lights out may get rid of it by itself, but the red slime remover in combo will make sure.
 

evoIX_Reefer

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I've used chemiclean probably 4-5 times with 0 issues.

I will use it after I try to kill off dinos that i just started dealing with.

Cant believe my luck. Got bad RO/DI and now i am suffering with hundreds of $$ of corals for shii water.

0 issues prior.

Fook me.
 

STRIPERVIPER

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Same here. Chemiclean works and never had a bad experience with it. Water changes will make cyano worse. I did lights out for three days in combination with chemiclean. I even covered the tank with a blanket to ensure zero light got in. I see your nutrients are low but that’s probably because the algae is eating them all. Try Biopellets, rowaphos, or a turf scrubber. Not all at once and ramp them up very slowly as not to strip everything out all at once. Also scooping the cyano covered sand out helped me too. As far as the dinos for me dosing doctor Tim’s snd special blend boosted my beneficial bacteria and eliminated them.
 

jkidd155

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what about feeding my fish do i continue feeding i was feeding heavy due to no nutrients i also had my skimmer off due to it now i run my skimmer for 12 hours do i still keep the skimmer on for 12 hours or run it 24 hours
 
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What ever you do dont use dino x. So many bad reports of it wiping out tanks. Never dose your tank with anything until you know what you are dealing with/fighting.

I will take a better look at the pictures but most likely dinoflagellates by nutrient levels. Feed your tank a **** ton to bring p04 up to detectable levels.
With out a microscope you can do this. Take out a sample of it and strain it through a paper towel into a small cup with a cap. Shake it up vigorously and let it sit in ambient lighting. If it reforms back together fast (within an hour) it is dinoflagellates

Report back and I can help more.
 
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I just looked at the pictures and it looks like cyano to me 100% bit you can never be certain without proper I'd with a microscope.

Although I have never used chemiclean many big names in the industry keep it tucked away for a rainy day. I would try some dr Tim's wasteaway first.
Very small initial dose and make sure you oxygenate the water as best you can before you use it.
 

jkidd155

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i was feeding heavy then was told not to i was using everything in the book to try and raise my p04 levels neophos phytofeast reef roids turned off the skimmer took out chemipure elite nothing
 
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i was feeding heavy then was told not to i was using everything in the book to try and raise my p04 levels neophos phytofeast reef roids turned off the skimmer took out chemipure elite nothing
If you make a bunch of changes all at once it is very difficult to isolate what is helping, hurting, or doing nothing at all.

Couple questions to try and help.

Did you try the trick to see if its dinos? It looks like cyano but it could be ostreopsis and large cell A...dinoflagellates combined. the first being targeted by UV and the latter pretty much only being removed by sanded removal or elegant corals regimen.

Does it float to the top of the water column right before lights go out? Is it easily blown off the rocks? How old is the sand in the system?

Are any corals being smothered? If not I wouldnt worry and just let the tank ride it out. There are a couple things that could wipe it out immediately but it would be a good time to figure out the cause of it.

How much flow do you have in the tank? What kind of lighting? How many hours? Any natural light hitting the tank? Does your skimmer appear to be pulling out dark skimmate consistently? How often to you check no3 and po4? Does it appear to get worse after a water change? Are you growing macro algae?

My recommendation would be as follows. Whenever possible I prefer natural ways to steer my system in the right direction. I would advise to just be patient and continue to suck it out and do water changes. I agree with your decision to be hesitant about using chemiclean even though it will work. I hate putting chemical in the display tank and avoid it at all costs. Especially ones that dont share their ingridients.


1) Suck as much of it out as you can with 1/4" line tubing to minimize amount of water being removed from the tank. Do not put that water through a sock just discard it.

2) Blow out your rocks really well with a turkey baster or small power head and try and keep it suspended until it gets surface skimmed by overflow.

3)gently stir the top layer of your sand bed in small sections at a time. Usually wherever unwanted blooms start (ie rocks, substrate) that is where the "nutrients" are for them to flourish. I highly doubt your system lacks phosphates but it is possible if you have been running media for a long time without monitoring nutrients. Something to keep in mind is rock and arogonite suck it up like a sponge and release it back into the water column when levels get low in the water column. That being said after you zero out po4 with media it will take a little while to get that bounceback effect and release more and that is where the problems arise.

4) maybe rearrange powerheads to try and minimize dead spots in the tank.

I would start there and be patient. If you keep doing this and it keeps coming back. I would recommend reseeding your tank with a diverse collection of copepods. I use 5280 pods from algae barn and I dose the tank with phytoplankton everyday after adding pods. If you use a tube and funnel and let them grab onto some detritus or macro algae in 3 days you will see them all over the glass in your DT. Keep flow off for 30 minutes. I put them in a passive low flow area in the sump but you can put them in the most optimal spot for your system. If it is in the display tank wait a couple hours after lights out and use tube or pvc.

Good luck and happy reefing.






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jkidd155

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As far as corals don’t have many they look good except the bubblegum digi frag figure it’s low nutrients fish I have 10 as far as lights I have 4xr30 pros using ab+ program on at 12 off at 6 before it was 12 to 9 I was feeding heavy to try and raise my nutrients then when that didn’t work I switched to dosing nutrients as well as feeding heavy I stopped all of that just gonna let it ride out like u mentioned
 
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Considering that your setup is relatively new, its just cycling though the algae species, and a year from now, this will be a distant memory. Understand the problem, both cyano and dino are very fast growers and will out compete all other algae genera, from phtyoplankton to macro algae species. In the oceans there are red tides and other blooms which also happens, similar to your aquarium now. There are a few herbivores for cyano, but non for dino, since they poison the herbivores. If you didn't have any coral, lights out and every thing will dies out within weeks to 2 months. Bacterial will out compete them and your tank would be in balance. The problem is replacing them with the lights on. 3 to 5 days of no light and you'll kill 99% of them, but that 1% will grow back in, since there is still no competition. The herbicide and antibiotics knock out that last 1%. There are ways of introducing bacteria and phytoplankton while the lights are out, so that they could out compete the cyano and dinos, but you would need a large biomass of it and a broad spectrum of species. In my mind, that would require a 100% water change from the ocean. There are also live cultures you can buy, but that's a lot of work just to try.

Personally, I just recently went though a fast cyano bloom, last October (easy to control without light) then a dinoflagellate problem, in November. I tried to get rid of it using macro algae, failed twice. I was using the lights out and full light grow method I described, but the dino would simply grow over the macro and choking it off. I had the lights off for about 6 weeks, in total, lost most of my corals. (jan - mar). The second attempt, I thought I had the dinos beat, but after a week of macros growing, it started to creep back in and grow over the macros again. I still didn't have enough macro bio mass.

3 weeks ago I used dino x on my third lights out attempt. (I kept my extra macros growing in a separate container, which incidentally, I was fertilizing and dumping my skimmate in, and had no visible dinos growing in there. Somehow they were out competed by the green water phytoplakton which must have been colonized from the same main tank the dinos where dominating in. Go figure, likely because there was no filtration or skimming and it was extra dirty water). Anyway I digress. Now that the herbicide which I used for the last 2 weeks controlled the dino from blooming again, the extra mass of macros are growing in, without the dino interference. I'm pretty certain the third times a charm. Once the algaecide dissipates, I'll be introducing phytoplakton and reseeding the water column. Inoculating with probiotics, so to speak, to prevent future blooms.
 

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