The math is pretty easy - figure out all the devices that possibly could be running at one time, add up the total watts used by those devices, and divide by 120. That will tell you the number of amps that you may be drawing at any one time. Standard household breakers will open at 15 amps, so if you're anywhere near 1650 watts or so, you could be running in the red zone. I figured for an 80 gallon, I'd be around 1350 (and I'm not using very high wattage MHs.)
There are, however, many many other things to consider. First, the number of "outlets" is not the right question. Any number of outlets (in different rooms) can be on one circuit. So, if you run your tank on a circuit that also includes other electric equipment, that equipment will count toward the 15 amp limit. (In other words, you could switch on 2 lightbulbs in another room and trip the circuit.) One way, although not the only way, to see what is on the circuit is to flip the breaker that corresponds to the outlet where you want to run the tank and see what else in the house turns off.
Another thing you want to know is the gauge of the wire in your house. If you live in a development, it is probable that your contractor picked the sub-contractor that offered the lowest bid, which means electrical wire that meets the bare minimum code standards. If you have the lower rated guage wire, you probably don't want to run more than 70-80 percent of the total available wattage on the wire.
When I can afford it, I'll end up going with 2 dedicated 20 amp circuits with separate GFCIs. I'll run one heater and one pump through one, and one heater and one pump through the other. I'll probably split up the lights too. That way, even if one GFCI trips, I'll still have a good chance of pulling through.
Ultimately, nothing you read on the internet can substitute from good advice from a bonded electrician.