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Pazzoman

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Hey Everyone,

Ive read multiple threads on how to cycle t tank for marine but not much on when to introduce stuff from an established tank to speed up the process and how to tell if its fully ready for fish.

I will be setting up a 150 gallon tank hopefully my sump will be finish tomorrow, was suppose to be yesterday but it wasn't ready. This is my plan of cycling and tell me what you think:


Once I have the tank filled with water and sump operating, I will put my 100+ pounds of dry rock (40 pounds of craib sea life rock) and 50 pounds of established cured live rock from a tank that is currently running. Than add bags of livesand (personally I didn't want live but I like the grain size of it).. Than squeeze the sponges that I have sitting in my cousins sump in the tank. As well as purchase biospira or sachems ability which ever is recommended.....THAN I will start following the label on dosing ammonia chloride which is basically adding pure ammonia to the tank instantly instead of waiting for a shrimp to rot. Throughout the process I will have pumps running of coarse as well as my k1 moving bed filter.

How does that sound ^^ Now I have some questions:

Should the skimmer be running at this time? Most say no and some say yes to have it start the "break in" period.

Should I remove the filter sock after I give the sand a day or two to settle? I think removing the filter sock would help bacteria growth....than again could really just do nothing.

I have always used api test kits for everything, so I will order an API Test Kit for saltwater, do you recommend it or no?

Also would adding pure ammonia (Dr. Tims Ammonia Chloride) to the tank be too much and kill the live rock?

Also is this a good tank cycling process to follow for saltwater as well, used it for fresh?

http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?207575-Fishless-Cycling

Thanks appreciate it, Ive asked plenty of questions on these forums I just constantly second guess things and try to get some support from everyone too make sure Im doing everything right lol. Thanks!
 

Jim

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NOTHING good happens fast in this hobby. It looks like you're trying to rush the cycle. PATIENCE is key. Why add all those chemical to jump start the cycle?

Take your time. It's a hobby, try and enjoy. Rushing things usually leads to disaster.

Also get rid of the API test kits. Get Elos, Red Sea, or Salifert.

Just my 2 cents.
 

Pazzoman

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Nope just trying to find the safest way to start it I hear people who cycle the tank with additives and established stuff all the time. Im not going to throw in a bunch of fish all at once. Will be putting one fish once all reading hit zero and than every fish after it won't come in in for another 3-4 weeks depending on the fish observed in quarantine...no rush here just trying to find the best way to cycle a tank with established live rock and additives...

I will take a look at the test kits as I always used API, but if you don't recommend it I will switch

Btw Im looking at red sea master care kits, just wondering did anyone do a test to somehow tell which kit gives the most accurate reading? If so is there a thread I can read? If it matters just looking for a test kit for ammonia, ph, nitrates and nitrite. Than eventually I will get specific test if needed
 
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greg 45

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I use api as a guide over the expensive kits / if I am boarder line I check with salifert
looking into a spectrophotometer down the road
color blind trying to match colors
like quality meters with numbers
hope this helps
 

Pazzoman

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Thanks I will probably use more than one kit. So far looking online got thumps up for red sea for the usual parameters, ph/ammonia/nitrates/nitrites. Personally I used API all my life even with the a few years of saltwater and never had a problem. Just wish there was someway to test how accurate test kits are. Probably have to have some one with lab grade test kits to test the water and compare it to test kits available to us.

Also interesting on the spectrophotometer will take a look
 

Nandez13

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Once I have the tank filled with water and sump operating, I will put my 100+ pounds of dry rock (40 pounds of craib sea life rock) and 50 pounds of established cured live rock from a tank that is currently running. Than add bags of livesand (personally I didn't want live but I like the grain size of it).. Than squeeze the sponges that I have sitting in my cousins sump in the tank. As well as purchase biospira or sachems ability which ever is recommended.....THAN I will start following the label on dosing ammonia chloride which is basically adding pure ammonia to the tank instantly instead of waiting for a shrimp to rot. Throughout the process I will have pumps running of coarse as well as my k1 moving bed filter.

.....

Should I remove the filter sock after I give the sand a day or two to settle? I think removing the filter sock would help bacteria growth....than again could really just do nothing.

I have always used api test kits for everything, so I will order an API Test Kit for saltwater, do you recommend it or no?

Also would adding pure ammonia (Dr. Tims Ammonia Chloride) to the tank be too much and kill the live rock?


If you'd like to have your tank cycled soon, you can start by curing your dry rock in plastic bins. You do have alot of live rock but depending on its density, it can fit in a couple plastic bins. During the curing process, dry rock will leach some unwanted nutrients. By curing the rock outside of the tank, you can avoid these entering your system.

If you don't rinse your live sand, you may have some trouble with the dust cloud settling. Adding a filter sock or two will definitely help but there's no need to leave these in. Whatever bacteria grows on these in such a short time frame is insignificant to the amount that such a large tank needs. Once they start getting brown from the dust cloud, replace them.

I wouldn't recommend API test kits as I they can be very inaccurate. They're a popular choice because of their low cost but once you start comparing their results to other test kits (salifert, red sea) you can see a big difference. What you can use API for is for ammonia and nitrite. This is because these levels should be at 0 before you add anything to your tank anyway. You are not looking to get a precise measurement like you are for nitrate, ph, calcium, mg etc which will fluctuate in readings. Once your tank has cycled and you haven't had any issues, then you shouldn't need to test for ammonia or nitrite anyway.

Would you be adding the pure ammonia to start the cycle? You can just go with some raw shrimp to get your initial ammonia spike. Once my tank had cycled, I did add a bit of pure ammonia to confirm my tank was cycled. My tank was able to get rid of that ammonia spike within a couple days which is what I was expecting. If you do add pure ammonia, be careful with the amount. You need very little to get your ammonia spike, I'm talking a few mL. There are some calculators out there online that will help you determine the amount of ammonia needed for your tank size. I bought a gallon of pure ammonia and ended up taking a few drips out of it.
 

Pazzoman

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Yonkers
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Hey thanks a million for your help. I actually just ordered the red sea test kit, which should be here by monday. The dry rock I bought was actually live rock that was in someones tank for years, but they broke it down and since they were out of water I consider them dry rock. The life rock from caribsea I just went for because it had that purple look so I will do some research on them if they have those nutrients that need to be leached out in a separate container. The live rock will be purchased from a member on heres who has the tank running for years with them. Defintly will look at labels and find instructions online for the ammonia. Thanks!
 

Serega

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If you'd like to have your tank cycled soon, you can start by curing your dry rock in plastic bins. You do have alot of live rock but depending on its density, it can fit in a couple plastic bins. During the curing process, dry rock will leach some unwanted nutrients. By curing the rock outside of the tank, you can avoid these entering your system.

If you don't rinse your live sand, you may have some trouble with the dust cloud settling. Adding a filter sock or two will definitely help but there's no need to leave these in. Whatever bacteria grows on these in such a short time frame is insignificant to the amount that such a large tank needs. Once they start getting brown from the dust cloud, replace them.

I wouldn't recommend API test kits as I they can be very inaccurate. They're a popular choice because of their low cost but once you start comparing their results to other test kits (salifert, red sea) you can see a big difference. What you can use API for is for ammonia and nitrite.

++++++1
I wish I did that when I started.
 

marrone

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Dr. Tims Ammonia Chloride? Funny but it use to be just Ammonia Chloride and you could pick up a 5 gallon container from a chemical store/warehouse for a few bucks.

Basically this is what was used years ago, maybe decades ago, to help boost the bacteria load in your tank. You would add a very small amount as the ammonia started to peak in the cycle, at which point it would set the ammonia off the charts on the test kit, it would actually look dark green to the point where it was almost black. Once the system converted all the ammonia over the tank was then setup to handle a very heavy load from the beginning. It worked very well but it wasn't that easy to find, as you had to go to a chemical warehouse to get some.
 

Dan_P

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Connecticut
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Hey Everyone,

Ive read multiple threads on how to cycle t tank for marine but not much on when to introduce stuff from an established tank to speed up the process and how to tell if its fully ready for fish.

I will be setting up a 150 gallon tank hopefully my sump will be finish tomorrow, was suppose to be yesterday but it wasn't ready. This is my plan of cycling and tell me what you think:


Once I have the tank filled with water and sump operating, I will put my 100+ pounds of dry rock (40 pounds of craib sea life rock) and 50 pounds of established cured live rock from a tank that is currently running. Than add bags of livesand (personally I didn't want live but I like the grain size of it).. Than squeeze the sponges that I have sitting in my cousins sump in the tank. As well as purchase biospira or sachems ability which ever is recommended.....THAN I will start following the label on dosing ammonia chloride which is basically adding pure ammonia to the tank instantly instead of waiting for a shrimp to rot. Throughout the process I will have pumps running of coarse as well as my k1 moving bed filter.

How does that sound ^^ Now I have some questions:

Should the skimmer be running at this time? Most say no and some say yes to have it start the "break in" period.

Should I remove the filter sock after I give the sand a day or two to settle? I think removing the filter sock would help bacteria growth....than again could really just do nothing.

I have always used api test kits for everything, so I will order an API Test Kit for saltwater, do you recommend it or no?

Also would adding pure ammonia (Dr. Tims Ammonia Chloride) to the tank be too much and kill the live rock?

Also is this a good tank cycling process to follow for saltwater as well, used it for fresh?

http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?207575-Fishless-Cycling

Thanks appreciate it, Ive asked plenty of questions on these forums I just constantly second guess things and try to get some support from everyone too make sure Im doing everything right lol. Thanks!

The cycling process involves establishing bacteria colonies throughout the aquarium. This is inherently a slow process, weeks no matter what you do or add. After you establish the nitrification system it has only been sized for the bio-load you started with, a dead shrimp or ammonia. It still needs to grow larger for future additions and that is also a slow process, hence the advice to stock slowly.

Denitrification bacteria will take an additional time to get established.

The live rock should be enough for your bacteria starter kit but if you want to rinse out a sponge from another aquarium, I suppose this could add more diversity to your microbiome. You could also follow Paul B and add water from the Sound.

Traditionally, no purification systems are run during the establishment of the nitrogen cycle but the presence of a filter sock will not slow the cycling process, so, leave it on. Skimmers remove 20-30% of the organics, including the bacteria in the water column. The skimmer will not remove ammonia and nitrites nor will it starve the bacteria. As for reducing bacteria in the water, I am pretty sure that your nitrogen cycle is developing on the surfaces in the aquarium and is safe from skimming. So if you feel like it, be a renegade and run the skimmer.


You seem to have a handle on the approach and the forum members will help keep you on the straight and narrow.

Good luck and don't forget to add to the Cyano Survey if the red scourge appears.
 

Arati

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LI
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I have cycled a tank in 2 weeks using the zeovit method. my advice is to do it the slow way, it is far less risky and provides a better foundation for the tank to build on.
 

Pazzoman

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Location
Yonkers
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Hey thanks everyone I have a deep understanding on what to do and no worries won't rush the process just trying to get the foundation done first before cycling, because once I add those ammonia drops I'm going to wait till like 3ppm of ammonia is cycled out of the system in one day acceding to one of the links I put up. Thanks again for all your help and the first addition will be an expensive angelfish so will make sure the tank has time to cycle.

And i will check out the Cyano survey now to see whats it about
 

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