- Location
- Bergen Cnty. New Jersey
Just turn off the switch and you wont need to relight. If you turn off the gas you will have to relight but no need to turn off the gas just the switch.
HVAC question
- Thread starter pmui
- Start date
So just flip the red emergency switch off, flush and reset everything the way it was, then turn the red switch back on. does that sound right?
- Location
- Bergen Cnty. New Jersey
Yes. But this may not be the problem so just leave a post when your done if it worked or not.
i looked at the gauge before i started: it was 180F/15psi. After i was done it read 75F/15-18psi. A lot of black water can out, not sure if the air came out, but i did 10gal / zone. I will give you an update in a couple of days, to see if the banging goes away. Thanks.
- Location
- Bergen Cnty. New Jersey
If you didnt see any air then it most likley was not the problem air usually does not cause banging. Leave a post how you make out hopefully it worked and your done.
Pressure is ok... so your feed valve is working. Sorry, I didn't read your whole post till now , thought you just wanted to get air outta your pipies. From my experience , Air usually makes a gurgling sound , if your getting a banging it's probably something else. You'll have to wait and see. Hard to trouble shoot without really hearing the sound. Heat expansion in the pipe itself can cause a loud ticking which I've come across before.
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- Location
- Bergen Cnty. New Jersey
If it dosent go away you would have to figure out a little more of when it actually happens, since there are a few things it could be and not being there to hear it.
It could be expansion like will mentioned, temp to high, also i didnt see your zone valves on the return so im guessing there on the feed, when on the feed sometimes when they close it can cause banging and if a pipe is loose it could be banging when it closes, i preferr them on the return. If the circulator is actually not running you would still get some heat but the boiler temp would get too high and there would be banging. But the most likley is still the expansion, if the pipe is tight it will bang or if it is rubbing aginst wood, if the pipe goes straight threw a wall and not down into the bay it could be tight on a 2*4 things like that, you will need to pay close attention to where and when it happens or call someone.
It could be expansion like will mentioned, temp to high, also i didnt see your zone valves on the return so im guessing there on the feed, when on the feed sometimes when they close it can cause banging and if a pipe is loose it could be banging when it closes, i preferr them on the return. If the circulator is actually not running you would still get some heat but the boiler temp would get too high and there would be banging. But the most likley is still the expansion, if the pipe is tight it will bang or if it is rubbing aginst wood, if the pipe goes straight threw a wall and not down into the bay it could be tight on a 2*4 things like that, you will need to pay close attention to where and when it happens or call someone.
I noticed you said "it makes a loud banging noise when it starts up". I'm assuming, form what you said, your boiler is gas fired and not oil fired and if so I doubt very much you could even notice it staring unless you were standing right next to it which is puzzling me?? You also would not know if the circulator started unless you were next to it.
When it happens it sound like someone is kicking the baseboard, it's pretty loud. I'll monitor it for a few days see if it happens again.
Thanks.
- Location
- Sayreville, NJ
I?ve just come back to this post?..draining water isn?t going to ?bleed? your system. If anything, it will add air to the system. You have to have bleeders on there somewhere. If it?s an older system, it has bleeders, at a minimum, at the high point in the system, and potentially at the boiler. If it?s newer, code requires auto-bleeders.
I also don?t like your expansion tank. When the bladder goes in that thing, the weight of the water is going to torque that pipe down. Any expansion tank I?ve installed has always hung straight down. And the bladder will go?..12 to 15 years is the average.
Here?s an example of a bleeder on an aluminum finned baseboard:
You turn the little screw and air comes out the little pisser on the side. Once you start getting water, you?re good?.close the screw.
I also don?t like your expansion tank. When the bladder goes in that thing, the weight of the water is going to torque that pipe down. Any expansion tank I?ve installed has always hung straight down. And the bladder will go?..12 to 15 years is the average.
Here?s an example of a bleeder on an aluminum finned baseboard:
You turn the little screw and air comes out the little pisser on the side. Once you start getting water, you?re good?.close the screw.
- Location
- Bergen Cnty. New Jersey
You only need bleeders on each section of baseboard if its not a loop system by the pictures its a loop system and he most, likley has no bleeders as there not needed you "bleed" or "purge" from the boiler.
You are correct on the expansion tank ...it's really supposed to go the other way round. They put it that way cause they couldn't hang it down. i've seen it done before and been told the bladder will fail quicker...
As .far as the bleeder on the baseboard elbow , I have serviced boilers all over the east end of Long island and they don't really use those ...at least I 've never seen them out here . Every Weil Mclain I've seen (and I've seen a ton LOL) all have an air vent on top of the boiler just like this boiler...You can get most all the air out by purging the system but you need PRESSURE...to push the air around the loop and out the purge valve.. The autovent on top of the boiler will take care of the rest, if it's working correctly..Like I said ....you need to either use the Fast fill on the water feed or a Pony Pump. I have purged countless systems like this and never had a call back . Well maybe one..LOL
The bleeders on the baseboard are for a Monoflow system...not a loop system
As .far as the bleeder on the baseboard elbow , I have serviced boilers all over the east end of Long island and they don't really use those ...at least I 've never seen them out here . Every Weil Mclain I've seen (and I've seen a ton LOL) all have an air vent on top of the boiler just like this boiler...You can get most all the air out by purging the system but you need PRESSURE...to push the air around the loop and out the purge valve.. The autovent on top of the boiler will take care of the rest, if it's working correctly..Like I said ....you need to either use the Fast fill on the water feed or a Pony Pump. I have purged countless systems like this and never had a call back . Well maybe one..LOL
The bleeders on the baseboard are for a Monoflow system...not a loop system
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- Location
- Bergen Cnty. New Jersey
Actually you can hang the expansion tank either way theres no difference in function, weight or failure, you just should not hang it sideways because of weight especially when it fails. The only thing that could be done is to support the iron nipple but even when the tank fails that nipple isnt very long it will support it, i try to hang them strait down from a spirovent but sometimes theres not enough room and you still need to use a nipple.
The air scoop built into the weil mclain does work fairly well but can vents dont they fail within weeks all of them, you can not depend on that for air, he may need to purge his system sometimes. A hydronic system takes air in all the time but is released out in the loop and that built in purge usually wont do anything since the can will fail, you really need a better air eliminator such as a spirovent but even that if the loop is long the air may not make it back, and making that issue worse is the fact that the boiler is piped poorly. Anyway im still not sure thats his issue i think its the baseboard expanding since he says its when it comes on.
The air scoop built into the weil mclain does work fairly well but can vents dont they fail within weeks all of them, you can not depend on that for air, he may need to purge his system sometimes. A hydronic system takes air in all the time but is released out in the loop and that built in purge usually wont do anything since the can will fail, you really need a better air eliminator such as a spirovent but even that if the loop is long the air may not make it back, and making that issue worse is the fact that the boiler is piped poorly. Anyway im still not sure thats his issue i think its the baseboard expanding since he says its when it comes on.
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