Ich hypo

[blackcloudmedia]

So after I got my marine velvet squared away my fish now have ich. Im going to piss myself. I have all four fish quaranteened in a 14 salinity...i.e. hyposalinity. The question is how long do I leave them there? I dont want any more diseases...

Im mad cause my LFS seems to have diseased fish, its all in a closed system so Im sure hes got tons of diseased fish. Unfortunately hes the only guy around. For now on though Im quarenteening all fish I buy.


And by the way that tooth on the surgeonfish....yellow tang.....its functional....it hurts.

 

[Anonymous]

You need to keep the salinity at 1.009 for at least 10 days. If they are in the original tank, I'd do it for 3 weeks. It is probably better to keep the fish in the main system and move any invertibrates out to a separate tank, and keep them out for a month. You can speed the life cycle up a bit by running the aquarium at about 80 to 82 F. I wouldn't go any higher than that.

 

[ChrisRD]

I have all four fish quaranteened in a 14 salinity...i.e. hyposalinity. The question is how long do I leave them there? I dont want any more diseases...

Hypo article by Terry B:
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2007/6/fish

From the article:
"I recommend maintaining the quarantine system, for a minimum of thirty days, at a salinity of 14ppt."

 

[blackcloudmedia]

I couldnt keep them in the main system, its a reef.

 

[fungia]

my lfs fish are all diseased too, i have to qt. qt works very well and i would tell everyone to do it.

 

[blackcloudmedia]

I know its like LFs dont realize...or dont care, that keeping those tanks all connected is a time bomb waiting to go off for ich, or any diseases.

 

[cindre2000]

I have to step up and sort of protect the LFSs. It would be very difficult to run a large number of separate systems and keep them stable. It is far better to have most of the systems connected to a communal sump to provide easier maintenance and greater stability. However, you are trading something- the ability to quarantine every fish.

About the only way to fix this is to run ozone or UV, which can be difficult and expensive to set up properly and maintain.

Remember that every successful LFS and online FS's number one priority is to make a profit, not to sell healthy fish, or nurse them back to health; otherwise they would go out of business very quickly.

 

[blackcloudmedia]

Heh thats true, its just when every fish Ive taken home in the past three months had ich....it gets old. Ive lost 2 maroon clowns each at thirty bucks, and a blue hippo tang, 45 bucks. They died before I even had time to set up the quarenteen. Lucky me they died after the "three day" return policy.

 

[blackcloudmedia]

Update. Theyve been in the tank for three days now at 1.010 salinity. The watchman goby wasnt looking so well and showed no signs of ich, so I returned him to the display, he appears better now. The lawnmower blenny and damsel show no signs of ich however the yellow tang has visible spots still and seems distressed....at a 3 on a scale of 1 to 10...ten being worse. SHould I lower the salinity even more?

 

[ChrisRD]

What are you measuring salinity with? Personally, I would double check calibration before doing anything else.

 

[Anonymous]

Heh thats true, its just when every fish Ive taken home in the past three months had ich....it gets old. Ive lost 2 maroon clowns each at thirty bucks, and a blue hippo tang, 45 bucks. They died before I even had time to set up the quarenteen. Lucky me they died after the "three day" return policy.

It doesn't really matter where you get your fish, you must assume that they all carry disease. Provide optimal conditions (i.e. mimick sea conditions, as well as nutrition) and the animal will be well-served by its own immune system.

Start using quarantine, PROPERLY. That does not mean set it up when you get home with the fish. Read the hypo article as well as doing additional research (this is so common, and has been so often written about that to print it all out would likely require ream upon ream of paper just for the text), and yes, bring the salinity down to 1.009.

 

[rocede1981]

hi guys, I just entering to this forum today, because I have an important thing to share and I want others to try it to see if it helps... as everyone knows the French angels are commonly called ICH MAGNETS and I have 2 tanks (1 55gal and 1 12 gal) the french was on the 55 gal and started to pick at my soft corals so I thinked of moving it to the small one but in the small one i have an ich problem so I couldn't do it, so I thinked (as seamaiden says) why in the sea they almost doesn't get ich or doesn't get on an advanced step of the infection??? then I started to think that the Iodine its a antibiotic, we use it when we get hurt and things liked that and then I started to "mimic" the sea conditions (iodine conditions as antibiotic) so I took the iodine suplemment for my main reef tank (a concentrated one- KENT) and get the iodine levels a bit higher than normal ones and after 2 days the spots have gone on my tiny blue hippo so then I moved the french angel to the small tank and it has been 3 weeks that it doesn't show any sings of ich. remember to be cauteous with the iodine as too much iodine can kill everything.. please see if it works for you and post back for the sake of everyone.....

 

[Anonymous]

And by the way that tooth on the surgeonfish....yellow tang.....its functional....it hurts.

Welcome to the club! Make sure it doesn't get infected, then it'll really hurt.

 

[Anonymous]

These scare me.

Naso lituratus.

I caught one of these with a bag a couple weeks ago, large specimen about 10" long or so. A bag is preferable because they usually don't freak out as much, and it won't rip their scales and get their spines caught. The only drawback is that these guys will slice a plastic bag to ribbons once they figure out they're trapped. Went through the bag and put a nice gash on my knuckle.

 

[jollylager]

Ruby Reef's Kick Ich is good to help speed up the quarantine, and is invertebrate safe.

 

[Anonymous]

I know its like LFs dont realize...or dont care, that keeping those tanks all connected is a time bomb waiting to go off for ich, or any diseases.

Of course they know, and chances are they do care. I mean, it is absolutely NOT profitable to freeze dead fish. However, there are other issues that a shop has to deal with, and generally, for salt, going with individually maintained tanks is not feasible. Not even at wholesalers will you see such a thing.

Now, here's the rub -- it can be safely assumed that all wild-caught animals come in with parasites, as a matter of fact it's probably almost impossible to purge an organism's system completely without doing it some harm (rather like chemotherapy, wouldn't you agree?). This is how they have evolved, no less. So, what's a hobbyist to do? Duplicate the wild conditions that disallow a given parasite to gain sufficient foothold to bring harm to the desired organism in the first place.

All that being said, in my opinion it's quite foolish to not utilize quarantine before placing any organism into a display.

 

[Anonymous]

Ruby Reef's Kick Ich is good to help speed up the quarantine, and is invertebrate safe.

The overwhelming number of reports submit that not only is Kick Ich not necessarily safe for inverts, but that it doesn't really help with ich at all.

 

[Anonymous]

You need to keep the salinity at 1.009 for at least 10 days. If they are in the original tank, I'd do it for 3 weeks. It is probably better to keep the fish in the main system and move any invertibrates out to a separate tank, and keep them out for a month. You can speed the life cycle up a bit by running the aquarium at about 80 to 82 F. I wouldn't go any higher than that.

Last I looked into it, upping the temp didn't do much at all for crypto and the idea that it did was a holdover from freshwater ich. If you could provide info that it does help, I would be happier.