If i built this would it quiet my sump?

[asonitez]

Water enters through the top and encounters a 90 degree T Fitting. One end open and 1 end with another 90 degree elbow going straight up.

Air travels to the 90 degree elbow and escapes and water only flows through the other end. Would this work to quiet the drain from the tank? Would it be ok to submerge?

 

[Len]

It probably won't work for a couple of reasons. One reason is the water needs to be inclined so air rises to the top. If it is horizontal, air will not decide to go right (against the current) to escape. Which leads to the second reason it will not work: some (most) air will go down to the sump because of the water forcing it down.

My recommendation is simply to put a gate valve on your downpipe leading to your sump. Choke down the flow enough so that there is not much air being sucked into it. This will quiet your overflow and reduce virtually all your bubble problems. Just make very small adjustments until the water level rises enough in the overflow box to cover the top of the drain hole.

 

[tinyreef]

is the noise from the splash or the gurgling? how is the sump currently configured?

i recently saw one setup where the inflow was 'contained' within a 4" pvc coupling with outflows drilled throughout below the waterline. this somewhat muffled the splash and gurgling with a conventional pipe inflow.

i've tee'd off inflows somewhat like you're suggesting, like len says though, the air will likely get pushed along with the waterflow. you can mitigate this slightly by using an oddball tee, i.e. 2" x 2" x 1" tee. that should limit some of the gurgling/splash to the inside of the tee.

adjusting the endpoint/outflow to straddle the waterline will further limit noise as there will be no cascade/waterfall in that position.

you could also just turn the tee so that one side flows downward and the other is pointed up as you planned in that design. (i'd still use an oddball tee though) but you could also cap the "up end" with a drilled hole (the escaping air only needs a small opening) to add an addt'l layer of muffling.

i've also taken to placing a cinchable filter bag over sump inflows to further muffle noise and limit splash.

i'm not too keen with the valve suggestion though as any slight clogging could create an issue. hence, i always try to use as large a pipe for the inflow as possible. hth

 

[asonitez]

Ive been told that the reason the water is gushing so much is because my return is so strong. I use a MAG 12 Return split to two Locline outputs. The water flow into the tank is amazing using those loclines and angling them correctly works wonders. Last night I purchased a ball valve and a 3/4" female to 3/4" pipe and installed it onto my mag 12... Adjusting the flow using the ball valve essentially made my sump silent as a graveyard. However water was not being moved as agressively as I want.

I stopped my leaking and it was because of the bulkhead. What happened was that it had leaked and sunk into the wood then evaporated and raised bubbles on the paint which trapped water inside of it. I lanced all the bubbles drained the sump slid in a LONG Rubbermaid LID that I purchased at home depot and that essentially solved all of my problems.


I think that if I COVER my sump that I will ease evaporation as well as muffle the sounds coming from the over flow.


Would Drilling Holes into the Flex Vinyl Tubing help Air Escape before it reaches into the water line? The Theory is have air escaping before it hits the water line.

 

[tinyreef]

so you valved the return (to tank) or the inflow (to sump)? it sounds like the return was valved, which is preferable imo instead of the inflow. but the typical result is a change in lower flow in the display, which i think you're describing.

you're correct in that the return is the controlling factor in the velocity of the inflow of the sump (assuming the overflow isn't maxed out). if maximum output/return is what you really want (sounds like it is), then deal with the gushing noise/inflow velocity directly instead of limiting the return.

i'd still suggest going back to your original concept of tee'ing the inflow. try branching the inflow to two pipes. this effectively halves the velocity (splash and noise). you can go one further by using the oddball tee (e.g. 2 x 2 x 1), which can reduce the flow rate over the area discussed (i.e. pipe diameter) 4x! this all contributes to lowering the noise and splash evaporation.

adding the addt'l holes in the tubing may de-gas some of the inflow's air pressure but i think you'll likely see water ejection too. it's a variant of your original sketch imo and subject to some of the issues len pointed out still.

some of the issues you noted must have been discussed elsewhere, i guess.