Lighting Suggestions

[jcolon2]

Hello. I have been using the following coralife fixture:

• Two on/off switches with two 8-foot power cords for separate timers
• Built-in ballasts
• Two cooling fans
• Sleek aluminum housing
• Highly-polished reflector
• Acrylic lens cover
• Comes with two 65W 10,000K and two 65W True Actinic 03 Blue straight pin base compact fluorescent lamps
• Fixture measures 48"L x 7"W x 2 1/2"H
• Voltage frequency: 120V 60Hz
• Power: 120W

I am new to this hobby and was under the impression that the lighting system previously described, which I have been using for two months, was a T5 system. However, after speaking to several MR members it was brought to my attention that the system is in fact a PC system and I need to switch to Halides. All suggestions regarding lighting are welcome. I am working on a very limited budget.

I would like the shimmering effect in my tank as well as lots of coral growth. I also want the most bang for my buck. I do worry about the heat as my room is warm to begin with. Also, how much is too much light on a 55? I have not yet ruled out T5 lighting however; it seems MHs are the way to go.

I am housing every type of coral and I have inverts including a baby maxima clam.

 

[KathyC]

Metal Halidie lighting runs very warm, you would need to add fans (do you have a canopy?) to blow the heat away from the tank, but even with them, you will probably need a chiller. Definitely need one if your room is already warm as you state.

Only MH truly gives you the glitter lines you want, and on a 4 foot tank you would need 2 MH's to properly light the tank.

You'll get less heat with T5's and can keep just about any coral under them.

 

[isgon26]

I would go with MH's if you plan to keep SPS. But T5 can be used also. If you have problems with heat in the room the MH's are going to be a problem. You will need a chiller. So its your call. They have lots of T5 fixtures for sale here if you choose to go that way. You could probably do 150w halides on a 55 to lower the heat. But i prefer 250w.

 

[jcolon2]

I do not have a canopy on the tank. I heard powerbrites give the glitter effect, but that's just more money. I do plan to keep SPS, I currently have SPS. The room does get quite warm, especially with just my PC system. I wanted to go with T5 but then most people said go with an MH system. And T5s are easier to find and cheaper. I have no idea which way to go.

 

[Keith P]

This is a common debate, MH vs T5.

I have a MH on my nano and T5 on my 70G.

I love the T5 due to the cooler running, more even lighting (I find MH to give a hotspot in the middle, where T5 is more uniform), and the best feature all - being able to mix bulbs.

With MH you are stuck with a limited number of bulb choices. With T5 you can mix and match bulbs to get the color and effect you find most pleasing. Additionally, bulb placement comes in play. I can put more actinic light in the back to make the shrooms pop, and a whiter light upfront to light up the sand (this also keeps that harsh blue/UV light out of my eyes).

I used to like the MH shimmer, but the effect got old. If I really want shimmer in my 70G, I can move a power head closer to the surface. The surface waves will generate a nice, mild shimmer.

My opinion is that MH is great for large systems that need extra light penetration. But for smaller tanks (say 90G and down), I would prefer T5. But thats just my 2 cents...

 

[jcolon2]

I've elected to go with a T5 system. I will purchase powerbrites (when I have the money) for the shimmer effect or I will place the powerheads near the surface for surface agitation to create the effect like Keith said. Now, onto locating a cheap, quality system..

 

[jcolon2]

Bump.

 

[VJ&POOPS]

Justin

T5 seems to be your best option considering a 55 does not have much depth and you keep different types of corals, and yes high temp will definitely be a concern especially during the summer months.

I would also recommend you use your powerheads primarily for water flow since different corals also have different water flow needs.

Rudy

 

[SevTT]

I am new to this hobby and was under the impression that the lighting system previously described, which I have been using for two months, was a T5 system. However, after speaking to several MR members it was brought to my attention that the system is in fact a PC system and I need to switch to Halides. All suggestions regarding lighting are welcome. I am working on a very limited budget.

Power Compacts do kinda suck. However, if you're only lighting a T5 system, there's no real need to go with halides, and many reasons not to. So long as the tank isn't over about 24", a full rack of T5s (as many as you can stuff under the hood) will run cooler and give more light, more evenly, to your entire tank, while using less electricity, and will be less likely to cook your tank in the event of a heat spike.

Get some decent T5 ballasts -- you don't need to go Icecap, just real T5HO ballasts, not Workhorses, and get some good reflectors. (These are far more expensive than you would expect them to be, but they're the key to outperforming halides.) If you watch the for sale forums it shouldn't be hard to pick up spare T5 retro systems (or ones you can disassemble to create a retro) pretty cheap.

 

[nyfynest22]

have 3x mh 250 in my 220 5x fans in my canopy temp of the water does not go up at all get some mh and good fans and you will be ok.