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hi i have a Coralife Pure Flo II Mixed Bed Deionization Cartridge and my ? is how do i know when it needs to be changed? they told me when it turns dark . does anyone have a picture of a wasted color change di?? my meter says my ro water is 0ppm but that doesnt mean the di is wasted. if any one have a pic it be helpful. when i remove the di from the canister and the water goes away from the di its still light .i usually change it every 4mths.
 
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Pinkheine

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It will turn purple. The one on the left is old, the one on the right is still good.


DSCF0105.jpg
 

Pinkheine

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You're Welcome... Dark/purple, I have no clue.. which is a better description... I just know what one looks like after watching it change several times already. Typically it will change from the bottom up, or so I've noticed with ours. Side by side though it shows pretty well the difference. :)
 

mray

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From the color of my DI resin in my filter, you would assume that it is exhausted but when the water was tested, 0ppm was still coming out. I think they purposely have the resin change color before it is really exhausted. Just check the output frequently.
 

House of Laughter

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use you're measurement devices - handheld TDS is cheap and great way to benchmark what you see. it's exhausted when the meter starts reading .02 or higher.

HTH

House

From the color of my DI resin in my filter, you would assume that it is exhausted but when the water was tested, 0ppm was still coming out. I think they purposely have the resin change color before it is really exhausted. Just check the output frequently.
 

reefman

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right. all membranes have a rejection rate 95%-98% which should be listed.
i.e. if your rate is 98%, the best the tds will read is 2 from membrane alone. the 2% will need the di to reduce it further.
 

dannyl

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DI Canister

Hi everyone I wanted to add a question in reference to this. I've purchased a DI resin canister to add to my existing ro/di filter system. Where does the di resin go in before the membrane or after the membrane?
 
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A good rule of thumb is to replace your sediment filter and carbon block after six months. A more precise way to maximize the useable life of these two filters is to use a pressure gauge to identify when pressure reaching the membrane starts to decline. This is your indication one or both of the filters is beginning to clog.

Also be cognizant of the chlorine capacity of the carbon block. The Matrikx+1 (?Chlorine Guzzler?) for example will remove 99% of chlorine from 20,000 gallons of tap water presented at 1 gpm. Original equipment suppliers commonly provide carbon cartridges rated at 2,000 to 6,000 gallons.

Regarding your RO membrane and DI resin, use your TDS meter to measure, record, and track the TDS (expressed in parts per million) in three places:
1. Tap water
2. After the RO but before the DI
3. After the DI.

The TDS in your tap water will likely range from about 50 ppm to upwards of 1000 parts per million (ppm). Common readings are 100 to 400 ppm. So for sake of discussion, let's say your tap water reads 400 ppm. That means that for every million parts of water, you have 400 parts of dissolved solids. How do we go about getting that TDS reading down to somewhere near zero?

If you do some experimenting with your TDS meter, you'll note that your sediment filter and carbon block filter (collectively called ?prefilters?) do very little to remove dissolved solids. So with your tap water at 400 ppm, you can measure the water at the ?in? port on your RO housing and you'll see it is still approximately 400 ppm.

The RO membrane is really the workhorse of the system. It removes most of the TDS, some membranes to a greater extent than others. For instance, 100 gpd Filmtec membranes have a rejection rate of 90% (i.e., they reject 90% of the dissolved solids in feed water). So the purified water coming from your 100 gpd membrane would be about 40 ppm (a 90% reduction). Filmtec 75 gpd (and below) membranes produce less purified water (aka ?permeate?), but have a higher rejection rate (96 to 98%). The life span of a RO membrane is dependant upon how much water you run through it, and how dirty the water is. Membranes can function well for a year, two years, or more. To test the membrane, measure the total dissolved solids (TDS) in the water coming in to the membrane, and in the purified water (permeate) produced by the membrane. Compare that to the membrane?s advertised rejection rate, and to the same reading you recorded when the membrane was new. Membranes also commonly produce less water as their function declines.

After the RO membrane, water will flow to your DI housing. DI resin in good condition will reduce the 40 ppm water down to 0 or 1 ppm. When the DI output starts creeping up from 0 or 1 ppm to 3 ppm, 5 ppm, and higher, you know that your resin needs to be replaced. Sometimes people complain that their DI resin didn't last very long. Often the culprit is a malfunctioning RO membrane sending the DI resin ?dirty? water. This will exhaust the resin quicker than would otherwise have been the case. Sometimes the problem is poor quality resin ? remember that all resins are not created equal!
 

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