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Nassau
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I read somewhere that it is recommended to put some type of padding between the tank and stand. Does this really help with imperfections in the stand top, how? If so, what material do you use? Am I right in thinking that even if you allow the tank to "settle" with the weight of the water you are still at risk of leaking?
 

pecan2phat

Professional Commuter
Location
Wallingford, CT
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Depends on the tank. If you have a tank like an Oceanic, Perfecto or AGA, the padding wont do much since the tank weight is on the molding. If you notice, the glass bottom is not level with the molding.
If you have an acrylic tank or a custom made tank where the bottom pane is flush, then yes, you should have padding between the tank and top of the stand. The insulation foam board from Home Depot is what most people use.
 

ryangrieder

Advanced Reefer
Location
Northern Jersey
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i had a 140g tank but it was long. 96 inches. acrylic. i put cork board on top the stand and it worked great! my buddy used on his 135 acrylic some kind of padding from hobbytown. he said it was real cheap and used for like train sets or something like that i dont know, but it worked as well. i liked the cork board padding. the floor was not level but the tank was perfect!
 
Location
Nassau
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glass or acrylic?...usually not recommended for glass tanks...you DO want the stand as level as possible, to prevent stress
Glass AGA, so it is framed. It's a diy stand. I read on reefcentral that if any of the pieces in the top frame was not perfectly straight that it should be placed with the middle rising upwards, rather than sagging downwards. The weight of the tank would "straighten" that upward bend. With the empty tank on the stand there is a gap just under 1/8" on one end and just about 1/16" on the other at the rear. The front of the tank lies flush with the stand.
 

masterswimmer

Old School Reefer
Vendor
Location
NY
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With the empty tank on the stand there is a gap just under 1/8" on one end and just about 1/16" on the other at the rear.


I know it doesn't sound like much, but believe it or not, 1/8" is a huge amount when leveling a tank that's only about 3'-5' long. Remember, glass doesn't bend.

Use the pink Owens Corning Rigid Insulation to help take up that gap, whether the tank is acrylic or glass.

Russ
 
Location
Nassau
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I know it doesn't sound like much, but believe it or not, 1/8" is a huge amount when leveling a tank that's only about 3'-5' long. Remember, glass doesn't bend.

Use the pink Owens Corning Rigid Insulation to help take up that gap, whether the tank is acrylic or glass.

Russ
In fact, it sounds like the Grand Canyon to me Russ. Thanks for the suggestion. Would this go right around the trim (all four sides), or just the uneven side? How does the mechanics of this actually work? Other than filling the gaps does it really help with structural support for the tank frame?
 

masterswimmer

Old School Reefer
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Location
NY
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Get a piece of the pink insulation that is larger than the footprint of the whole tank.
Then take a sharp razor blade and cut the insulation to match the exact footprint of the whole tank bottom.
Place the insulation under the tank and you're good to go.

The mechanics and theory behind the use of insulation between the tank and stand is that you're using a rigid, but pliable material to support the tank, even in the area of the stand where the gap exists. As the weight of the filled tank causes the tank to settle into the insulation, the gap tightens, yet is still supported evenly on the entire perimeter of the tank base.

Hope this helps,
Russ
 

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