darkdrako

Looks mean doesn't she!?
Location
Elmont
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I want to set up a quarentine tank for when I purchase new fish and want to just make sure it will be done correctly.

There are two tanks available as a qt - a 15 gallon 24x12x12 (dismantled frag tank) and a 29 gallon 30x12x18. As far as other equipment, I have a 4x24w T5, 50w heater and an aquaclear 50 and a cover all left over from the frag tank. The largest fish (in purchase size) would be a hippo tang, white-check tang and a jawfish. From reading around, there will be no sand or rock and the water will be pretty fresh salt water mixed a week prior to purchase. And so I have a few questions:

What do you think would be the best tank?
What salinity should the water be at? I know ick cannot survive hyposalinity at 1.009 but should the salinity match the display tank and first and slowly adjust as needed?
Should there be some cut pvc for the fish to hide in?
Can the tank be drained between quarentines or is it better to just leave it running?

Ray
 

jacuglietto

Experienced Reefer
Location
Pleasantville
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I would recommend the larger of the two tanks. gives you more room for error, as keeping parameters steady in a QT is not as easy as a larger display. I would start your QT with a bit of Salt water from the display, mixed with new SW, then once it has been set up - only perform water changes with new SW.

if you are going to be running copper in the QT, no need to change the salinity, try to keep it the same as the display.

I keep some PVC joints and ends in my QT, gives the livestock a place to hide.

you're last question I am not sure of, but I have always drained in between. I am planning on keeping the QT running after i get its current inhabitant into the display, so i will let you know how it goes.
 

cowfish

Psycho-ologist
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4   0   0
My .02

As above - use the 29g and a couple of PVC lengths or elbows so the fish have a place to hide.

Research has indicated that there are different strains of Crypto/Ich and some can, in certain stages, survive lower salinities. I'd only use a hypo treatment if they actually have the disease and then to be effective, do it for 6 weeks.

If the AquaC hasn't been running then it'll do little good. Instead of using a "new" filter purchase a sponge filter and leave the sponge in your sump for about 3-4 weeks. This will allow a good bacteria colony to inhabit the sponge. When you're ready to purchase the fish, set up the QT with 1/2 - 2/3 water from the display they will be going into and the rest new saltwater. Add the sponge filter. I wouldn't use a light as this will just add to their stress. Ambient light from the room (assuming it isn't completely dark) should be enough.

Personally I wouldn't medicate unless it's necessary. Copper can be very stressful or even lethal to some fish. A freshwater dip (with appropriate pH and temp) prior to QT will get rid of any flukes. Then observe the fish in QT for 1-4 weeks (again depending on the species). If there aren't any signs of illness add'em to the display. If they're sick - treat accordingly.
 
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