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Anonymous

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Tackett wrote:

I wouldnt suggest getting a megawattage sterilizer though, you might wind up with problems, especially with clams and SPS.

What problems would it cause for the clams and SPS?

A low wattage UV lamp, in conjunction with a low flow pump, is usually enough to irradicate free floating algae cells, but not enough to kill any more complex organisms, parasites sadly included.

My LFS is touting as the cure for parasites. He says he looses far less fish since he put UV's on his tanks at the store and at his house.

I should ask him what size UV's he's using and how much flow, since he is have some success with it.



Good quarantine habits should make that inconsequential though.

I agree with this statement in theory. I just don't think putting a fish like a Sohal Tang in a small, barebottomed, clean quarantine tank is really the right thing to do for him.

I was planning to purchase my fish and leave them at the LFS for a few weeks to makes sure they are healthy. Then just add them straight into my new 300G.

Louey
 

Tackett

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AFAIK. An overkill UV sterilizer will indiscriminatley kill all microrganisms that filter throught it, including wouldbe food sources for clams and sps. If the clams are large, it probably wouldnt be as big a deal as if the clams were smaller. (which in that case you should be target feeding phyto anyway.) But I still find the idea of ridding my water of 90% of ALL microorganisms intolerable.

I agree with your LFS guy that a UV sterilizer will kill off some parasites, however my experiences with it require a huge sterilizer with slow flow for long contact time before the DNA ever has a chance to get changed in something that complex.

As far as a quarantine tank goes, some species you just cant do it with. But you can with about 80% of others. Quarantining 80% of your livestock should in theory reduce your risk of pathogen exposure in your tank by the same number, and I can live with that. I agree though, I would not put a sohal tang in a quarantine tank, nor would I do for any species like it.

All in all, as far as UV's go, My suggestions to people is always use the lowest wattage and lowest flow required for their size tank, and dont expect it to do anything except help with algae control. If you crank the wattage up enough to kill anything else, as I said earlier, you are also killing other microorganisms.
 
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Anonymous

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So what flow and wattage would you suggest for my 300G tank. I have a 150G sump and and a 75G fuge.

Nice sig line, BTW ;)

Louey
 

Tackett

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Lol, I got that sig line from someone.......can't remember who though.

uhh 300, maybe something like this:

25W @ 300gph.
40W @ 950gph.
65W @ 2000gph.

These numbers should be safe. Any less flow on those wattages and I think you will start bordering into damaging dwell times for organisms more complex than algae.

I do have some scientific backing for the numbers here. They are all based (loosely mind you) on UV exposure times and human skin cell metamorphasis. I just kind of fudged the numbers a little to our applications. You can also look at actual UV sterilizer data that produce the exposure times and exposure amount for pathogen damage. Ill do a google search and see what I can come up with for you.
 
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Anonymous

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I wound up buying this one on eBay for $119.99 plus $12.00 shipping. These units usually go for $199 at most on-line places.

Now I just need to get the right pump to go with it. I think I'd like to go with a low flow pump to nuke parasites while I am building up my fish stock. Seems that it would make sense to build up the fish population and overcome any algae outbreaks before I start loading up on SPS corals and clams. I could also turn the UV off for a few hours every few days and feed some DT's if I do stock some corals or clams while I am still stocking fish. Sound reasonable?

Louey
 
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Anonymous

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hmm. I just printed it and it worked fine for me.

Maybe try "file" then "page setup" and see what your margins are set at. Make your right magins smaller. Mine was .251.

Good luck.

Louey
 

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