Tank coming tomorrow, electrical & floor questions

[Hyolee]

My 200g is coming tomorrow. Woohoo!

Anyways, I have been a bit lazy about doing some groundwork before the tank comes, but better late than never.

With electrical, I found that both of my outlets are on the same circuit. How can I find out the amperage of this circuit? If it's lacking, I need to call an electrician to have it upgraded.

As for floor support, I did quite a bit of research and I intend to go into my crawl space tonight, but I likely going to rely on a professional. Where exactly can I find a structural engineer? I don't think they are listed in the yellow pages; either that or I am looking in the wrong place. It looks like there are two methods: lally columns (floor jacks) or sistering joists. If I cannot find a structural engineer, I may have to just call a contractor, pick one of the two methods, and hope for the best.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Anonymous]

If unsure about the floor's capacity, then higher a contractor (or do it yuorself) to add some additional shoring. I would not worry about "engineering it" to meet a specific load, just add a few braces and a few cross-beams and you will be fine. A decent contractor should be able to add sufficient additional support without consulting an engineer.

FWIW, I'm a structural engineer.

 

[ChrisRD]

Check your circuit breaker panel to see what size breaker is on that circuit. Typically for outlet circuits in modern residential construction it will be 15 or 20 amps depending on where you are in the house.

If the tank is going to be a reef you might consider having a dedicated circuit run for it. Considering the power demands of a large reef tank, personally, I would prefer not to have it sharing a circuit where a vacuum cleaner or some other high current device could potentially be plugged-in and end-up popping the breaker.

As for the adequacy of the floor, if the long dimension of the tank will be perpendicular to the direction of the floor joists and adjacent to a load bearing wall you should be OK. If it's some other condition you'll likely need some additional reinforcement - the methods you mentioned are common solutions.

HTH

 

[Len]

I also don't think you need an engineering. Just get the joists sistered and pillared, and cross beamed if you can. It shouldn't be expensive, and any contractor can do this. It just involves cutting some wood and possibly laying some concrete down on the foundation for the pillars.

 

[Hyolee]

Thanks for your tips. I went down to my crawlspace and found that my tank will be going in front of a wall that appears to be a bearing wall. There is a very thick beam (girder?) going across the entire house supported by these foundation pillars, and the wall is very close, but not exactly over it. I plan on placing the tank in front of this wall.

As for the floor joists, I am not sure what I am seeing. It appears that the floor joists are spaced right next to each other. Am I correct? That does seem a bit odd, but does that mean my house is overbuilt then from that perspective?

Thanks again for your help. Will go check the amps now on my circuit breaker.

 

[trido]

Actually your floor does not have joists. What is shown in the pic is most likely 2"x6" tongue and groove (car decking) spanned four feet from beam to beam. I am only assuming four feet because that was the standard practice of building that way. If thats the case it should be plenty strong hence the name "car decking". If it is more than four feet I would seriously consider adding another beam between the two shown.


Boy! That style of building sure wouldnt meet earthquake safety code today. There arent any steel straps in sight. Im sure it has fared just fine through more than one already though.

 

[Len]

Interesting. I'd personally pay a contractor to retrofit the joints with straps and see if he thinks you need more beams.

 

[ChrisRD]

As mentioned, you don't have joists and without more specific information I couldn't say if that flooring system would be adequate, but it's very likely that you'll need some additional reinforcement.

 

[Hyolee]

Hi trido,

Thanks for the info about the type of flooring I have. You are right that the beams are spaced 4 feet apart. The house was built in the 50's. The beams runs across the length of the house. How would you go about reinforcing a floor like this or is it unnecessary?

 

[trido]

=(7.8*200)+500 When I enter this into excel it says 2060 pounds.
That is a rough weight for your tank in a 6' x2' footprint. You could probably get away without supporting the floor but the tank will likely be out of level and the floor may move a bit when someone heavy walks past. If you brace it you can have a dance party next to the tank without worrying.

To brace it all you need is two concrete pier pads ($10 each), a 4"x4" post ($10) and an eight foot 4"x6" beam ($25). A total of fifty dollars in materials tops. If you have a handy friend with a saw and hammer you'd be done for cheap. Center the two pier pads between (parallel) the two existing beams under the tanks new home and level a nice spot in the dirt for them, then set the beam on top of them and measure the distance from the top of the beam to the car decking. This is the lenght you will need to cut the 4"x4" posts. Cut them an eight inch long. Then you will need to hold the beam up and wedge the two posts into place. Nail it all off with 16D nails. Be very sure to stress that they are careful not to drive nails up through the floor in the living room. Sorry, but you cant do this. You need a strong guy to wrestle the beam into place. Maybe two, depending on how much skill and know how your carpenter has. Its not easy to lift and hold a 4x6 laying on your side in a crawl space and then nail it off. It actually sucks

If not, call the local handy man and explain what you need. When I was a contractor I would have charged you about $350 just to make crawling under your house worth my time. It will take nearly as much time getting the materials as it will to do the job. Shop around, you should be able get this done for cheap. It is after all, the slow time of year for carpenters and the building boom is slowing as well

 

[rbursek]

Your curciut breakers should say on them if they are 15 or 20 amp, typically they would be 15 for room oulets and lighting, except for some outlets in the kitchen and bathrooms for appliances which could and should be now 20 amp.
Bob

 

[Hyolee]

Hi Trido,

Thanks for the advice. Much appreciated. I will do as you advised, but I was wondering if you think I could swap out the 4"x4" post for an adjustable floor jack. Would this work? (they sell at HD and Ace as well)

http://www.amazon.com/TIGER-BRAND-JACK- ... 02&sr=1-12

I am VERY poor with tools and figure the adjustable floor jack allows me to not do any cutting / nailing.

Also, is a concrete pier pad a cinderblock that looks like a cube?

 

[Anonymous]

for the electrical, do as everyone said but for me I would know exactly what circuit Im dealing with. You might be running alot more on it than you think. As stated before, I would run a separate line or two (since your there) That way you know what your tank is on and nothing else. Also install a GFCI breaker so the entire circuit is protected. Make sure you use a licensed electrician and his number is valid. Im a electrician on the side, licensed and bonded. To keep him straight tell him your going to get the work inspected just to make sure....

Water and electricity need even more respect, especially saltwater as its even more conductive than tap water

 

[trido]

Also, is a concrete pier pad a cinderblock that looks like a cube?

Yes, it does. Its slightly taperd toweard the top. Replacing the existing post isnt necessary. the idea is to add additional support between the original beams since they are four feet apart and the house is a little under built by todays standards. Most likely, almost any house is underbuilt to support a large fish tank in the middle of a room.

Two of those twist jacks is a good idea. I would buy an eight foot 4"x 6", two pier pads, and then two jacks. Drag it all under the house with a friend. Strategicly place the beam between two of the extisting 4"x 6"s where the tank will be, place the peir pads under each end and make sure they are level and stable, lift the beam up to the car decking (tongue and groove 2"x 6"s) and add the jacks. Make sure the jacks are very snug without actually bowing the floor above you. Viola! Your done.

 

[Hyolee]

Thanks Trido.

I had meant what you are suggesting. Not to replace the existing post, but the 4x4 post you mentioned that I would need to cut to size and nail into the 8 foot 4" x 6". Thanks for the confirmation. Will be busy this weekend!