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digitalreefer

Senior Member
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Ok... getting ready to rebuild my tank... here's my plan. Let me know what you think.

1. My 33 gallon, once taken down, will be drilled and a bulkhead installed. No overflow box, just an overflow with an elbow.

2. Plumbing (which will be pre-built) will work like this:
1" Drain into a 20g sump containing my skimmer, etc.
This will drain through another 1" bulkhead into my 10 gallon
The 10 gallon will have a drip plate over the fuge for a low turbulance flow
Baffle at the end of the fuge will contain the return pump
1/2" return split teed into 2 tank returns

3. I'm going to have a closed loop built and ready to install to provide flow so I can hopefully remove my powerheads.

4. I'm using 50lbs of fine white ESV sand and filling the tank back up with prepared saltwater (pure RO/DI)

5. The live rock will be scrubbed of algae and replaced while the water heats up.

6. Once the temperature and salinity are acceptable and the dust has cleared a bit the fish will be returned to the main tank.

Thoughts anyone?
 

digitalreefer

Senior Member
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I have a Mag 7 (700gph @ 0') and a ViaAqua 2600 (740gph @ 0') I'm not sure which I'm going to use where yet. Probably the Mag on the return.

Since the tank is 4' long, I think I can have enough outputs on the closed loop that it should provide good flow without a big sandstorm.
 

digitalreefer

Senior Member
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The tank is 48" x 12" x 12"
I put together a diagram for myself... might as well post it.
 

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Location
Howell, NJ
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just a suggestion, what i would do is lower the overflow to the 10 gallon so u would have enough space for the water from the main tank to drain incase of a power outage....

from what i see from the design u drew is that the 10 gallon will fill up with water rather quickly depending on where and how u position ur overflow from the main tank and have ur overflow to the 10 gallon so high up :)...
 

jhale

ReefsMagazine!
Location
G.V NYC
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the layout looks good, but you've created a very small area for the return and for evaporation. I know you are using float valves for top off, make sure you have a large resevior for the top off water.
 

digitalreefer

Senior Member
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the layout looks good, but you've created a very small area for the return and for evaporation. I know you are using float valves for top off, make sure you have a large resevior for the top off water.

Ok that makes sense.

Also, what would everyone think of raising the 10g to drain into the 20? (Making the 10g the sump and the 20g a fuge)
 

nanoreefer22

Live Sale Pioneer
Staff member
Location
11756
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Everything looks good to me to. Besides whats already been pointed out the only problem I see is with your drain from the main tank. You're going to want to have some way to regulate the water level in the main tank to keep it above the trim. Also you might want to create an external durso to cut down on the nose that will come from draining water.

I've found that putting your drain pipe on a slight angle keeps the water from falling and allows it to run down one side of the pipe, reducing the amount of noise.
 

jhale

ReefsMagazine!
Location
G.V NYC
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if the skimmer fits in the ten gallon that would be fine.
the 20 would give you a bit more room for the return section.
 

digitalreefer

Senior Member
Rating - 100%
29   0   0
Everything looks good to me to. Besides whats already been pointed out the only problem I see is with your drain from the main tank. You're going to want to have some way to regulate the water level in the main tank to keep it above the trim. Also you might want to create an external durso to cut down on the nose that will come from draining water.

I've found that putting your drain pipe on a slight angle keeps the water from falling and allows it to run down one side of the pipe, reducing the amount of noise.

The elbow in the overflow bulkhead will be adjustable so I can adjust the water level. I did the same on Lissa's tank and it seems to work very well.
I will put the drain on an angle though... thanks.
 

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