- Location
- Nueva York
Since the process of setting up a reef tank includes both the steps needed for setting up FO and Fish/Invert systems, this thread will go through the steps needed for assembling a reef tank.
Setp 1- Inverstigate:
Thats right, investigate. Look around and see what interests you. Create a hypothetical tank scene in your mind, one that has no rules.
Step 2- Make Lists:
Now is time to step back into reality. Look at what you imagined your tank to be like. Throw out the things that wouldnt do well in your tank with you more favored specimens you chose.
Step 3 - Buy System Components:
Now that you have a final list and you know what your tank will be stocking its time to buy the equipment necessary to keep those specimens that you chose. (e.x.l ights, skimmer, powerheads etc.)
Step 4/5 - Preassemble Gear/Test Setup:
Setup the equipment to make sure everything works and no essential parts are missing. Turn everything on to make sure everything is operational.
Step 6 - Check for Leaks:
Fill the tank with water and make sure the tank or pipes dont leak. There is nothing worse than a leaking tank once its been setup for months.
Setp 7 - Premix Saltwater:
Whip up a nice batch of sea water using your saltmix + H2O and store it in a CLEAN and preferably new Rubbermaid trash can or container. You will grow a love for this container over time as it serves you well time and time again.
Step 8/9 - Apply Background/Fill with Saltwater:
Pretty self explanitory. Add the background. Once the tank shows no signs of leaks you should fill 'er up with some fresh SW.
Step 10 - Add Substrate:
If using sand make sure to rinse it well. Reason being that this will decrease the time youll have to wait for the turbidity (compliments of Leslie
) to decrease. Make sure to add live sand to help innoculate your system. I say this because one of the wonders the sea has to offer is its diversity in organisms. Be it large or small. Diversity is the key to a beautiful and successful system.
Step 11 - Add Live Rock:
Its time to add the live rock. As Fenenr warns, make sure the rick is fully cured! Otherwise beware of the effects itll have on your water quality(i.e. ammonia spike). 1-2 pounds of LR per gallon is usually the perscribed dosage of LR per system.
When looking to buy live rock make sure to find a source that offers rock with TONS of life on it. Look for coralline algae growth, sessile inverts, corals, and other inverts. Remember, diversity is key! (Although diversity is key, keep in mind that there are things we want to keep out of our tanks as well )
When placing rock into your system be sure to aquascape with your livestock's needs in mind. There is a diagram offered on page 114-115 that gives a few ideas of how to 'scape your tank.
-The Blob: Which is just a mass of rocks piled in the center of the tank which is pretty common in most tanks.
-The "C": That is the rock is arranged as a wall in the back with the ends curving foward and in, as does a "C"
-The Triangle: Arranging the rock so that most of it is fixed in a corner with its 2 adjacent sides that for the 90 degree angle, extend outward a bit.
-The "No Parking" Formation: Which is essentially 2 triangle formations arranged on 2 opposite corners of the tank with a clear pathway in between the 2 triangles ....this looks like the slash in the no parking signs that we curse just after seeing that orange paper on our windshield.
'Scaping materials that can be used include LR, coral, and shell skeletons just as plastic, epoxy and fiberglass can be used.
Step 12 - Limit Lighting Period:
Make sure, that once the live rock is added, that you limit the photoperiod of the tank. This is done in order to acclimate the life on the rocks to our intense lighting after its been transported. Over time, gradually increase the lighting period.
Step 13- Add Herbivores:
This is a good tip that i wish i had when i started my tank. Get algae-eating fish/inverts to take care of algae blooms that are prone to newly started up systems. As Fenner warns " skipping this step will almost invariably lead to a tank full of unsightly hair algae that dominates the aquascape and chokes out most sessile invertebrates" (pg 110). I found that snails are the most efficient at cleaning algae and i would reccomend them over hermit crabs and tangs.
Step 14- Start Stocking:
Drumroll please........ Tada! Its time to start stocking the fish you chose on your list. When stocking try not to overload your system by adding too many fish too fast. Always wait 2 weeks or so before introducing a new fish to the system.
A bit more for reef tanks......
Fenner suggests getting accurate test kits, which i agree with when he sais that its a must. Buy test kits for not only ammonia/nitrite/nitrate but also for alkalinity, calcium, magnesium, iodine, and pH.
Calcium- Fenner suggests readings to be between 400 and 500 ppm. It is usually said that readings circa-480 ppm are optimal. Make sure not to overdose calcium! Calcium Carbonate percipitate will form which is the solid falling out of solution thus rendering the calcium and carbonate useless for coral skelteon calcification.
Alkalinity- is the measure of bi/carbonates in ones system. Readings should be above 8 dKH, as advised by Fenner AKA "The Man".
One should also be weary when dosing calcium or alk seperately. Reason being that they both must be in balance otherwise your tanks chemistry may go out of whack. Its not discussed in detail in this chapter (or the book for that matter) so i wont go into it. (But i hope we do, in the near future of this wonderful book club :Hydrogen: ).
A Wonderful Word on Substrates:
Substrates offer more than one benefit to our tank.
-They provide shelter for animals that thrive in the sandbed.
-They provide a food source for those animals that feed on those that thrive in the sandbed.
-Allows for the tank to be more appealing to the eye
- And much much more!
Thigs to keep in mind about different types of substrate:
Aragonite sand buffers our water as our pH drops off and supports microbial life.
Silica sands tend to pack down and cut off water circulation throughout the sandbed. It also does nothing for buffering or for the support of microbial life. Silicates also feed the growth of nuisance diatom growth.
"Chose Your Passion"!
In the last section Fenner asks the reader about their passion. My passion is to see the variety of life from micro to macro and how each level organism interacts with others on different levels. That is what i can truly say is my passion which keeps me tied to this hobby.
Question to Consider
Now i ask you sitting at your computer; what is your passion? Is it the beautiful fish? Is it aquascaping? Is it the complex technical side of the hobby that drives you to love what you do? Share it with us in this thread.
Setp 1- Inverstigate:
Thats right, investigate. Look around and see what interests you. Create a hypothetical tank scene in your mind, one that has no rules.
Step 2- Make Lists:
Now is time to step back into reality. Look at what you imagined your tank to be like. Throw out the things that wouldnt do well in your tank with you more favored specimens you chose.
Step 3 - Buy System Components:
Now that you have a final list and you know what your tank will be stocking its time to buy the equipment necessary to keep those specimens that you chose. (e.x.l ights, skimmer, powerheads etc.)
Step 4/5 - Preassemble Gear/Test Setup:
Setup the equipment to make sure everything works and no essential parts are missing. Turn everything on to make sure everything is operational.
Step 6 - Check for Leaks:
Fill the tank with water and make sure the tank or pipes dont leak. There is nothing worse than a leaking tank once its been setup for months.
Setp 7 - Premix Saltwater:
Whip up a nice batch of sea water using your saltmix + H2O and store it in a CLEAN and preferably new Rubbermaid trash can or container. You will grow a love for this container over time as it serves you well time and time again.
Step 8/9 - Apply Background/Fill with Saltwater:
Pretty self explanitory. Add the background. Once the tank shows no signs of leaks you should fill 'er up with some fresh SW.
Step 10 - Add Substrate:
If using sand make sure to rinse it well. Reason being that this will decrease the time youll have to wait for the turbidity (compliments of Leslie
) to decrease. Make sure to add live sand to help innoculate your system. I say this because one of the wonders the sea has to offer is its diversity in organisms. Be it large or small. Diversity is the key to a beautiful and successful system.Step 11 - Add Live Rock:
Its time to add the live rock. As Fenenr warns, make sure the rick is fully cured! Otherwise beware of the effects itll have on your water quality(i.e. ammonia spike). 1-2 pounds of LR per gallon is usually the perscribed dosage of LR per system.
When looking to buy live rock make sure to find a source that offers rock with TONS of life on it. Look for coralline algae growth, sessile inverts, corals, and other inverts. Remember, diversity is key! (Although diversity is key, keep in mind that there are things we want to keep out of our tanks as well
)When placing rock into your system be sure to aquascape with your livestock's needs in mind. There is a diagram offered on page 114-115 that gives a few ideas of how to 'scape your tank.
-The Blob: Which is just a mass of rocks piled in the center of the tank which is pretty common in most tanks.
-The "C": That is the rock is arranged as a wall in the back with the ends curving foward and in, as does a "C"
-The Triangle: Arranging the rock so that most of it is fixed in a corner with its 2 adjacent sides that for the 90 degree angle, extend outward a bit.
-The "No Parking" Formation: Which is essentially 2 triangle formations arranged on 2 opposite corners of the tank with a clear pathway in between the 2 triangles ....this looks like the slash in the no parking signs that we curse just after seeing that orange paper on our windshield.
'Scaping materials that can be used include LR, coral, and shell skeletons just as plastic, epoxy and fiberglass can be used.
Step 12 - Limit Lighting Period:
Make sure, that once the live rock is added, that you limit the photoperiod of the tank. This is done in order to acclimate the life on the rocks to our intense lighting after its been transported. Over time, gradually increase the lighting period.
Step 13- Add Herbivores:
This is a good tip that i wish i had when i started my tank. Get algae-eating fish/inverts to take care of algae blooms that are prone to newly started up systems. As Fenner warns " skipping this step will almost invariably lead to a tank full of unsightly hair algae that dominates the aquascape and chokes out most sessile invertebrates" (pg 110). I found that snails are the most efficient at cleaning algae and i would reccomend them over hermit crabs and tangs.
Step 14- Start Stocking:
Drumroll please........ Tada! Its time to start stocking the fish you chose on your list. When stocking try not to overload your system by adding too many fish too fast. Always wait 2 weeks or so before introducing a new fish to the system.
A bit more for reef tanks......
Fenner suggests getting accurate test kits, which i agree with when he sais that its a must. Buy test kits for not only ammonia/nitrite/nitrate but also for alkalinity, calcium, magnesium, iodine, and pH.
Calcium- Fenner suggests readings to be between 400 and 500 ppm. It is usually said that readings circa-480 ppm are optimal. Make sure not to overdose calcium! Calcium Carbonate percipitate will form which is the solid falling out of solution thus rendering the calcium and carbonate useless for coral skelteon calcification.
Alkalinity- is the measure of bi/carbonates in ones system. Readings should be above 8 dKH, as advised by Fenner AKA "The Man".
One should also be weary when dosing calcium or alk seperately. Reason being that they both must be in balance otherwise your tanks chemistry may go out of whack. Its not discussed in detail in this chapter (or the book for that matter) so i wont go into it. (But i hope we do, in the near future of this wonderful book club :Hydrogen: ).
A Wonderful Word on Substrates:
Substrates offer more than one benefit to our tank.
-They provide shelter for animals that thrive in the sandbed.
-They provide a food source for those animals that feed on those that thrive in the sandbed.
-Allows for the tank to be more appealing to the eye
- And much much more!
Thigs to keep in mind about different types of substrate:
Aragonite sand buffers our water as our pH drops off and supports microbial life.
Silica sands tend to pack down and cut off water circulation throughout the sandbed. It also does nothing for buffering or for the support of microbial life. Silicates also feed the growth of nuisance diatom growth.
"Chose Your Passion"!
In the last section Fenner asks the reader about their passion. My passion is to see the variety of life from micro to macro and how each level organism interacts with others on different levels. That is what i can truly say is my passion which keeps me tied to this hobby.
Question to Consider
Now i ask you sitting at your computer; what is your passion? Is it the beautiful fish? Is it aquascaping? Is it the complex technical side of the hobby that drives you to love what you do? Share it with us in this thread.
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