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Old 06-30-2008, 04:31 PM   #1
BIG ROCK SMALL FISH
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Acros Distance vs. Duration

Has anybody ever experimented in changing lighting variables that have nothing to do with the type of bulb?

Regardless of the bulb (color temp, wattage, etc.) you can change the distance from the water surface (intensity) or the duration (time). Has anybody do so and had significant difference in results? Let’s leave color temp and wattage out for now, also let’s assume we are working with MH bulbs. Lets also assume we are using SPS as a basis.

I am thinking about this for a few reasons the least of which being operating cost, but also heat, and of course looking for better coral color and growth.

Last edited by ZZROCOOL; 06-30-2008 at 04:47 PM.
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Old 06-30-2008, 04:59 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZZROCOOL View Post
Has anybody ever experimented in changing lighting variables that have nothing to do with the type of bulb?

Regardless of the bulb (color temp, wattage, etc.) you can change the distance from the water surface (intensity) or the duration (time). Has anybody do so and had significant difference in results? Let’s leave color temp and wattage out for now, also let’s assume we are working with MH bulbs. Lets also assume we are using SPS as a basis.

I am thinking about this for a few reasons the least of which being operating cost, but also heat, and of course looking for better coral color and growth.

I have been playing around with this as well, but don't have any data for you as I am to early into my experiment. I have a couple of frags in my tank at different levels, and am waiting to see if there is a big difference in growth, etc. etc.
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Old 06-30-2008, 05:02 PM   #3
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Weird how I can put some of my acros on the bottom with my T5's and get better color.
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Old 06-30-2008, 05:17 PM   #4
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hmm

Let me know what you find
only issue with frags at different levels is that the amount of water has a lot to do with the amount of intensity drop off. I am thinking about moving my lights closer to the water rather then move the coral.
I also am really interested in the duration and to see if increased intensity effects the necessity for having my MH on all day
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Old 06-30-2008, 06:57 PM   #5
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i just cut mine down an hr to 7hrs/day to see if it deepens my color a bit.
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Old 06-30-2008, 07:30 PM   #6
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less MH is better than more MH.

I know both Rich and Shaun have cut their photo periods way down, around 3 hours of MH, and the SPS did not suffer at all.
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Old 06-30-2008, 07:47 PM   #7
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less MH is better than more MH.

I know both Rich and Shaun have cut their photo periods way down, around 3 hours of MH, and the SPS did not suffer at all.
i would hate to look at my tank under actinics only all the time...
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Old 06-30-2008, 08:03 PM   #8
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Boogersworth.
I always wonder when I see on RC guys who are running dual 400s, 16" off the water for 4-6 hours a day. Why not run 250s closer to the water for a longer period of time?
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Old 06-30-2008, 08:07 PM   #9
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not that i use mh on my sps tank but i did notice a significant difference in color in my sps with cutting from 8hr's a day to 6 and thinking of cutting back another hr or 2, tank also gets sunrise sun as the window it's next too is where the sun rise's
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Old 06-30-2008, 08:41 PM   #10
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Boogersworth.
I always wonder when I see on RC guys who are running dual 400s, 16" off the water for 4-6 hours a day. Why not run 250s closer to the water for a longer period of time?
i remember a while back all of the barebottom mafia on RC was saying, "oh now that your water is so clear you are bleaching out your corals with too much light, blah blah blah". My theory is they were starving them.
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