Recirculating Mod on Euroreef - Page 4

fritz · 03-07-2007, 03:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pedro


	How long did it take your's to break in after the mod? Or did it start skimming right away? I notice some turbulence on top, but it just looks as if you put the hands in the tank and the column collapsed. I think i will just have to be patient on this one. I'm waiting on my meter to see what the pump is pulling.

Oh no, here comes another LPM thread

Hook it up to an air pump!

Pedro · 03-07-2007, 03:41 PM

Fred, add a gate where? I already have the gate mod on it. I also have a ball valve on the feed. Here's some pics, see anything out the norm?

fritz · 03-07-2007, 03:46 PM

Where is the gate? I meant to install one in between the outlet T and the elbow (that's points down returning water to your sump). More specifically precisely the spot where the MR sticker hides in picture # 2.

fritz · 03-07-2007, 03:49 PM

Or you could be SUPER gangsta and install it in picture # 1 (right side just above the elbow)

Pedro · 03-07-2007, 03:50 PM

The gate is under the T. You can't see it cuz i have it facing the opposite way to save space. But it's there.

fritz · 03-07-2007, 03:50 PM

Also I think that the MJ has a max of around 150gph? WIth that head loss you may want to try it more open than so throttled back. It's hard to say from here, play with it and find what works on your system.

fritz · 03-07-2007, 03:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pedro


	The gate is under the T. You can't see it cuz i have it facing the opposite way to save space. But it's there.

Perfect

Pedro · 03-09-2007, 01:45 PM

Just a little update. I couldn't help it, so i opened up the air valve all the way. The cheating the skimmer from air was too much to handle. It has settled down anyways.

I skim wet, so you won't see that much foam in the cup. But this is almost 2 days worth.

joseney21 · 03-09-2007, 01:57 PM

is there a need for the hartford loop when using a gate valve?? i don't see how one would benefit if you already have the other. i do see how the gate valve might be a little more precise or easier to control

Pedro · 03-17-2007, 04:48 PM

Ok time to update this thread. Here is a more detailed instruction of the mod. This is for the cs135, but you can use the same principles for any skimmer.

1. For my particular mod, i took an inventory of all the elbows, unions, pvc pipes and uniseals that i needed. You will need cleaner and solvent for the pvc if you are gluing it firmly or using it external. I chose not to since mine is in my sump.

2. I asked euroreef where their first uniseal is situated in their recirculating skimmer. Chip told me that it starts at 3" to center from the bottom of the skimmer. So i made my first mark on the skimmer. I then modified the pump with the elbows and unions making sure that when i finished they were nice and level accross. After i had that in place i then had the other measurement for the other hole. So i measured center to center and it came out to like 5 1/2". Making sure the skimmer was upright, i placed the level to give me a straight line and measured from the first hole up 5 1/2" and made my second mark. So now i had the two holes that are needed. For the feed, just pick a location high up but not so close to a joint. This will be a 1/2" uniseal.

3. For a 3/4 uniseal you need a 1 1/4 hole saw. I found that it's also the same for the 1/2" uniseal. Make sure it's either new or sharp. Carefully start to drill the skimmer without putting much pressure. Let the hole saw do the cutting, you don't want to jam it and crack the body. So AGAIN, use very little pressure. Also keep in mind that not all skimmers are made the same. My euroreef is made very good so the body is easy to drill as it's tough. If your skimmer is more fragile you would need to be extra careful.

4. After you have drilled the holes insert the uniseals, you will get a snug fit. On the other half of the union you place a short stub of 3/4" pvc enough so that the union is flush to the uniseal and the pvc extends inside the skimmer. About 3" is about right. To get the pvc inside the uniseal use some silicone lubricant and it will go in smoothly. Without this it's too tough to try and push the pvc through the dry rubber, you can even end up cracking the body.

5. Now that both unions are on the body, line up the pump to them and check for a fit. If you measured right, they should line up and the recirculating mod is done. Now for the feed i used a short piece of 1/2" pvc connected to an elbow and then to a hose barb. You can use whatever method you want here. You can even hard plumb it with unions, etc.

6. I chose to add some support for the pump so i used velcro tape that goes around the body and through the pumps handle. It's nice because it's easy to take off and it keeps the body firmly against the skimmer and eases some pressure from it falling back.

7. The existing hole can get plugged with a piece of 3/4" pvc and a cap on the end. Just push it in the uniseal and that's it.

BTW, thanks to slama for showing me the pvc pipe cutter, what a sweet tool. I don't know why i didn't have one sooner.

I hope i covered all the bases, it's really very easy to do. Any questions just ask. Here's a few more pics.

03-07-2007, 03:41 PM	#32
Pedro Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Queens Posts: 1,971 Reefer Ratings: (21) Friends: (0)	Fred, add a gate where? I already have the gate mod on it. I also have a ball valve on the feed. Here's some pics, see anything out the norm? Last edited by Pedro; 08-13-2007 at 06:59 PM.

03-09-2007, 01:45 PM	#38
Pedro Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Queens Posts: 1,971 Reefer Ratings: (21) Friends: (0)	Just a little update. I couldn't help it, so i opened up the air valve all the way. The cheating the skimmer from air was too much to handle. It has settled down anyways. I skim wet, so you won't see that much foam in the cup. But this is almost 2 days worth. Last edited by Pedro; 08-13-2007 at 06:59 PM.

03-09-2007, 01:57 PM	#39
joseney21 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Bronx, New York Posts: 1,698 Reefer Ratings: (11) Friends: (18)	is there a need for the hartford loop when using a gate valve?? i don't see how one would benefit if you already have the other. i do see how the gate valve might be a little more precise or easier to control __________________ I Frag Frags!!!!

03-17-2007, 04:48 PM	#40
Pedro Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Queens Posts: 1,971 Reefer Ratings: (21) Friends: (0)	Ok time to update this thread. Here is a more detailed instruction of the mod. This is for the cs135, but you can use the same principles for any skimmer. 1. For my particular mod, i took an inventory of all the elbows, unions, pvc pipes and uniseals that i needed. You will need cleaner and solvent for the pvc if you are gluing it firmly or using it external. I chose not to since mine is in my sump. 2. I asked euroreef where their first uniseal is situated in their recirculating skimmer. Chip told me that it starts at 3" to center from the bottom of the skimmer. So i made my first mark on the skimmer. I then modified the pump with the elbows and unions making sure that when i finished they were nice and level accross. After i had that in place i then had the other measurement for the other hole. So i measured center to center and it came out to like 5 1/2". Making sure the skimmer was upright, i placed the level to give me a straight line and measured from the first hole up 5 1/2" and made my second mark. So now i had the two holes that are needed. For the feed, just pick a location high up but not so close to a joint. This will be a 1/2" uniseal. 3. For a 3/4 uniseal you need a 1 1/4 hole saw. I found that it's also the same for the 1/2" uniseal. Make sure it's either new or sharp. Carefully start to drill the skimmer without putting much pressure. Let the hole saw do the cutting, you don't want to jam it and crack the body. So AGAIN, use very little pressure. Also keep in mind that not all skimmers are made the same. My euroreef is made very good so the body is easy to drill as it's tough. If your skimmer is more fragile you would need to be extra careful. 4. After you have drilled the holes insert the uniseals, you will get a snug fit. On the other half of the union you place a short stub of 3/4" pvc enough so that the union is flush to the uniseal and the pvc extends inside the skimmer. About 3" is about right. To get the pvc inside the uniseal use some silicone lubricant and it will go in smoothly. Without this it's too tough to try and push the pvc through the dry rubber, you can even end up cracking the body. 5. Now that both unions are on the body, line up the pump to them and check for a fit. If you measured right, they should line up and the recirculating mod is done. Now for the feed i used a short piece of 1/2" pvc connected to an elbow and then to a hose barb. You can use whatever method you want here. You can even hard plumb it with unions, etc. 6. I chose to add some support for the pump so i used velcro tape that goes around the body and through the pumps handle. It's nice because it's easy to take off and it keeps the body firmly against the skimmer and eases some pressure from it falling back. 7. The existing hole can get plugged with a piece of 3/4" pvc and a cap on the end. Just push it in the uniseal and that's it. BTW, thanks to slama for showing me the pvc pipe cutter, what a sweet tool. I don't know why i didn't have one sooner. I hope i covered all the bases, it's really very easy to do. Any questions just ask. Here's a few more pics. Last edited by Pedro; 08-13-2007 at 06:59 PM.

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03-07-2007, 03:50 PM	#35
Pedro Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Queens Posts: 1,971 Reefer Ratings: (21) Friends: (0)	The gate is under the T. You can't see it cuz i have it facing the opposite way to save space. But it's there.