[cali_reef]

Quote: Originally Posted by Pseudo He missed the oscilloscope.

Nobody use those anymore old timer, how about a Time Domain Reflectometer ? You will need that to find all the bad connections for the first time soldering iron user.

[Aqua Pro Builder]

Quote: Originally Posted by cali_reef Nobody use those anymore old timer, how about a Time Domain Reflectometer ? You will need that to find all the bad connections for the first time soldering iron user.

Thanks for pointing out HAHAHA


Cali, looks like you are an engineer too.

[cali_reef]

<---- Being sarcastic.. I don't think anyone here have the extra $$ for one of those.

[Aqua Pro Builder]

Quote: Originally Posted by cali_reef <---- Being sarcastic.. I don't think anyone here have the extra $$ for one of those.

I know---
my "hahahaha" is about the "old timer" joke.
my "thanks for pointing out" is about you start the tease first.


We know---
time domain reflectometer is usually for checking cabling.


Who tease who is not important-just something to crack up for. It's fun.

[FRY]

http://www.dansdata.com/caselight.htm

[junglebase]

I guess that just about covers all the potential questions a newbie like me will have regarding electronics and LED's.....lol

[Aqua Pro Builder]

Some pics under different LEDs.

Pics of Green Black Sun are taken with a cel phone so pic quality is low.

Under "MY DIY" 0.4W of blue LED (make up of only 2 LEDs)


Under 0.4W of "MY DIY" LED plus a 1.44W commercially /v blue LED




Under 0.4W of "MY DIY" LED plus a 1.44W commercially a/v blue LED and 1.44W commercially a/v white LED


Under 2 x 36W VHO Actinic 03


Under MH 175W and 2 x 36W VHO Actinc 03 (need to take another pic to show better comparison)

[Aqua Pro Builder]

More comparison pics for the LED vs Flourescent and MH. Check the first page.

Note the ratings of the power is competely out of phase. So far I have no time to do DIY the simliar power consumption nor same par, nor ........ blah blah blah. Just a random comparison whenever I got a chance.

[Aqua Pro Builder]

I found that eggcrate is great for mounting the general LED in aquarium applications.

If you want to check it out, I have a raw testing unit in my club.

I also found that you should consider building somewhat like 48W-60W(depends on wavelength choice) of LED to replace a 2 x 65W PC light.

[Aqua Pro Builder]

As I promised earlier, I will come back to this thread once a while.

Here are two more pics showing you the difference.

VERY promising is all I can say.

The first pic is of the original 72W Flourescent lited tank
The second is a <15W LED, somewhat optimized, lited tank

Note: the shadow on the 2nd pic, it shows LED, when designed properly, can have the shimmering effect many people like about MH.

Note: the 2nd pic is actually brighter and whiter, at least to human eyes and the camera's CCD, at <15W of LED

Note: the temperature is so much lower than the flourescent. The bulb of the flourescent is untouchable and at burning temeperature while the LED is only warm.

Not shown in this pic. I also make a manual color tone/temperature controller and found that LED is the easiest to control comparing to flourescent and MH.

Now, the next step would be a field test of how well the corals do under them. Now, if someone who are marine biologist, please send me some more info about the zoa in corals and their mode of living. I read quite a bit but still feel need more to comfirm some concepts.

1st Pic: Under 72W of Flourescent Light
.

2nd Pic: Under <15W LED, some what optimised by Wingo)



I have put together, for your convenience, materials to make this DIY and details is available in the following thread
http://www.manhattanreefs.com/forum/...-projects.html

If you plans to build big big stuff, of course, it's best you get them online yourself.