[jhale]

impressive work, wingo.

[Aqua Pro Builder]

Next testing unit will be one to replace a 175MH on my frag tank.

The actinic are like 3 years old while the MH is new.

Problems I found with this pcs is: actinics are too purple and too dim while the MH is too hot and not to mention it's very heavy and it take up 8 inches of headroom.


Design Goals:
1)Solve the above problems: a)too purple, too hot, too heavy, too tall
2)Add adjustable intensity for better viewing pleasure
3)More shimmering effect(hopefully adjustable too)
4)Power usage must be lower than 175W+72W
5)Deadline: 3 months

Blah Blah Blah:
1)I am going to build a 18W actinic first to see it does the job already or not in replacing the actinic
2)If 1) is fine, I will build a 108W white light to see if has same intensity as 175W MH or not.
3)If all the above run withhin expectation than add color control unit.

	MH Metal Halide Lighting, typically used for high intensity light demanding corals such as SPS. Bulbs come in varieties of spectrums (7k, 10k,20k), and intensity (175W, 250W, 400W).

[Aqua Pro Builder]

This tip may help you save some money and some unexpected "high"

Couple members have picked up power supplys from canal street as suggested by some members in this forum in another led thread and found that it blows their LEDs even after they used the resistors of proper value according to the calculator as posted in the other LED thread.

Neither the calculator is incorrect nor the power supply is defective-it's just a labelling common mis-information.

Please make sure, you are getting regulated power supply, not just any power supply that says 12V DC.....

If you see something like this 5V-7.5V, 5V-12V, .... these are, for sure, not what you want.

For example, a Compaq Power Supply (Brick) with label saying 24V DC could, still, end up running your circuit at 32V DC and blow your LEDs and hopefully no toxic material is leaked into your tank. It is not defective-this type of power supply depends on the load-this is called the unregulated power supply.

So be careful when trying DIY with electronics, the label is not as detailed as FDA for canned food.

[WaterPlant]

Quote: Originally Posted by WingoAgency This tip may help you save some money and some unexpected "high" Couple members have picked up power supplys from canal street as suggested by some members in this forum in another led thread and found that it blows their LEDs even after they used the resistors of proper value according to the calculator as posted in the other LED thread. Neither the calculator is incorrect nor the power supply is defective-it's just a labelling common mis-information. Please make sure, you are getting regulated power supply, not just any power supply that says 12V DC..... If you see something like this 5V-7.5V, 5V-12V, .... these are, for sure, not what you want. For example, a Compaq Power Supply (Brick) with label saying 24V DC could, still, end up running your circuit at 32V DC and blow your LEDs and hopefully no toxic material is leaked into your tank. It is not defective-this type of power supply depends on the load-this is called the unregulated power supply. So be careful when trying DIY with electronics, the label is not as detailed as FDA for canned food.

No wonder mine keep on blowing up.

[Aqua Pro Builder]

How many watt and volt is your power supply and what make is it. I may be able to tell you what load you need to regulate the voltage. If not bring the power supply over to me, I can check it out for you.

I am assuming you are blowing up your LEDs not your power supply.

[Deanos]

for RareZ

[Aqua Pro Builder]

MOIDOL and RareZ, please double read post #23 to make sure you undersatnd what I mean and that you are using a REGULATED power supply! The resistors determined by the online calculators will not do you any good if you not using regulated power supply.