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peteyboyny

peteyboyny

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Manhattan Reefs
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duke62 said:
Well how do you know to change your gfo if you don't test? So many things could be happening without testing. Just because you have a good skimmer doesn't mean your low in nutrients. My recommendation is to spend 100 bucks, get some salifert kits and a Hanna kit and test your water. Your Tds should always read 0. Your po4 and no3 is probably through the roof.
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GFO, on average, absorbs to capacity in aprox 3 - 4 weeks, ON AVERAGE. So why would I wait until a test tells me to? It should be changed that often anyway. I replenish 150g every 2-3wks.
RO filters have been replaced (TDS 0ppm). And if my NO3 was that out of control, I wouldn't be experiencing the growth that i am in my corals. I also keep a fairly large colony of xenia in the display to help absorb NO3.
If you can show me a test to test for DOC in rock, I'll gladly try it. But until you can, please spare me the lecture on testing Thanks..
 
tunicata

tunicata

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Hey have you read about Nualgi?
I won some at the NJ swap this weekend. It's supposed to be good for removing algae issues.

Read about it online and let me know if you want a bottle. I haven't used it yet because I don't have any real algae issue but am considering using it after some more research.

A guy I met at that swap (not an agent) had told me about the wonders it had on his tank. That's actually why I put a raffle ticket in!!
 
peteyboyny

peteyboyny

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tunicata said:
Hey have you read about Nualgi?
I won some at the NJ swap this weekend. It's supposed to be good for removing algae issues.

Read about it online and let me know if you want a bottle. I haven't used it yet because I don't have any real algae issue but am considering using it after some more research.

A guy I met at that swap (not an agent) had told me about the wonders it had on his tank. That's actually why I put a raffle ticket in!!
Click to expand...

I know someone who used it, said it worked great.
I'm just leery of "miracle cures".
 
lnevo

lnevo

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I have a bottle of nualgi and was considering trying it for my newly discovered bryopsis. In researching it though, it seems like it's snake-oil. Granted there is some value to silica dosing (which is what it is) and it can help, but it seems to be a side benefit. If you want to try it, I have a sample bottle...
 
peteyboyny

peteyboyny

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Manhattan Reefs
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lnevo said:
I have a bottle of nualgi and was considering trying it for my newly discovered bryopsis. In researching it though, it seems like it's snake-oil. Granted there is some value to silica dosing (which is what it is) and it can help, but it seems to be a side benefit. If you want to try it, I have a sample bottle...
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That was my impression of the Nualgi. IMO, still to new of a product for definitive results. Tech M worked great on Bryopsis when I had an outbreak. Cleaned it up in about a month. Just happen to be the month I was extremely busy at work, and the tank suffered. The die off from the bryopsis fueled the hair algae/turf algae bloom that I'm still dealing with. That was over a year ago.
 
NYreefNoob

NYreefNoob

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poughquag, ny
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that's not enough. I would personally dose 1/4 bottle wait a week and do the same thing, I have cleared several of mine as well as others tanks doing this with no harm to anything in the tank, it will raise orp but that's not a bad thing
 
piranhapat

piranhapat

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I agree with Duke, test so you have some knowledge about where your water par is at. I can understand that you do WC and replacing GFO. But you need to know your phosphate levels. At least let someone a friend or LFS to test your water. Also you need to know Magnesium level.
 
E

evoIX_Reefer

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I'm with everyone else. I have done the same in the past and that's when I would get algae. Once I test and know what it is happening I can get a better idea what to attack. Sorry but these type of threads/questions are open ended and if you want a better answer than suggestions than you have to give MORE information for a more precise answer to your ongoing issue.

Please present your problem more like this:

I have been having turf algae issues for X amount of time. I run X GFO, 20% WC and my parameters are as such.

Other issues that commonly cause algae is lighting, flow, feeding habits besides parameters being a problem.

I have tried these steps to rid my issue: a, b, c, etc.

Some corals can thrive in high nutrient systems. Your algae will likely affect your reading of phosphates. Are you running biopellets (give info about that), are you dosing something (give info about that)?

That is the only way for someone who has no clue about your system to help you. Most people like to hold information out and those helpful will try based on only the info given. They might get lucky and guess but unlikely or you'll have to do multiple resolutions vs one or two tries.
 
peteyboyny

peteyboyny

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Manhattan Reefs
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evoIX_Reefer said:
I'm with everyone else. I have done the same in the past and that's when I would get algae. Once I test and know what it is happening I can get a better idea what to attack. Sorry but these type of threads/questions are open ended and if you want a better answer than suggestions than you have to give MORE information for a more precise answer to your ongoing issue.

Please present your problem more like this:

I have been having turf algae issues for X amount of time. I run X GFO, 20% WC and my parameters are as such.

Other issues that commonly cause algae is lighting, flow, feeding habits besides parameters being a problem.

I have tried these steps to rid my issue: a, b, c, etc.

Some corals can thrive in high nutrient systems. Your algae will likely affect your reading of phosphates. Are you running biopellets (give info about that), are you dosing something (give info about that)?

That is the only way for someone who has no clue about your system to help you. Most people like to hold information out and those helpful will try based on only the info given. They might get lucky and guess but unlikely or you'll have to do multiple resolutions vs one or two tries.
Click to expand...

First, did I ask a question? Nevermind it being open ended. I really stereo the thread to help sort out whether to stick with it our not.
Second, MOST of the info that you say is needed, is in the thread, nothing withheld.
Considering that most nuisence algae can still thrive in even when nutrient levels are undetectable, what would your advice be then?

This wasn't really a help thread.
 
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